Andy K wrote:

if/when it comes to needing heads, I would recommend these guys.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-7-DIESEL-CYLIN...SwurZZHXMt


More expensive than when I looked last, but see it has a chain in the pic. and cam sensor.

Cheers for the links Andy. Buying from these guys is probably the route I will end up taking once I get the head off.

Just got this reply back from autoreserveparts regarding the exact head following the link you listed "It includes valves, cams and cam carriers but not the chain." so I'm assuming they mean the cam chain isn't with the head, doesn't that sound a bit dodgy? RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

OK, here's one for you... I read this "The drivers side cam (off side) drives the near side cam, so when the chain breaks the off side is not affected, the near side cam stops, usually with a crunch." here:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic154075-120.html

I was planning to take the drivers side head off anyways BUT may this be the case for me also i.e. damage being done to just one head, given my original failure was the oil pump casing giving way and the tensioner collapsing.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

DerrekL wrote:

Andy K wrote:

if/when it comes to needing heads, I would recommend these guys.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-7-DIESEL-CYLIN...SwurZZHXMt


More expensive than when I looked last, but see it has a chain in the pic. and cam sensor.

Cheers for the links Andy. Buying from these guys is probably the route I will end up taking once I get the head off.

Just got this reply back from autoreserveparts regarding the exact head following the link you listed "It includes valves, cams and cam carriers but not the chain." so I'm assuming they mean the cam chain isn't with the head, doesn't that sound a bit dodgy?

From memory the belt drives the outer exhaust values.

The chain drives the inner inlet valves.

Given your original failure was the cambelt tension, i'm fairly sure as least one valve would be open on the drivers side during the cycle.

You could try and find an animation video of a TDV6 to see for yourself.

In the end it comes down to 2 things

1) How much have you got to put back on the car before you try and start it. that would then need to come off again.

2) Even if it does start, one valve could be slightly leaking on the drivers side head. resulting in fault codes etc

Will explain more later/when you got the first head off

Andy K wrote:

DerrekL wrote:

Andy K wrote:

if/when it comes to needing heads, I would recommend these guys.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-7-DIESEL-CYLIN...SwurZZHXMt


More expensive than when I looked last, but see it has a chain in the pic. and cam sensor.

Cheers for the links Andy. Buying from these guys is probably the route I will end up taking once I get the head off.

Just got this reply back from autoreserveparts regarding the exact head following the link you listed "It includes valves, cams and cam carriers but not the chain." so I'm assuming they mean the cam chain isn't with the head, doesn't that sound a bit dodgy?

When I purchased one from them it didn't come with a chain.
Maybe they consider a chain isn't a second hand part you should be using.
Naughty of them to show it in the picture.
You could always do a deal and ask them to give you a chain for the same price.

Yes that's what I thought and it also doesn't state in the description that chain isn't attached. Anyways I will persevere with taking the LH head off just now and continue to search for another cylinder head.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I see chain and tensioners are £110 on eBay so worth trying to do a deal with a head

Yes I think so to. As I would have thought if you are buying the full head... well... you should get all the bits with it. It's worth watching out for/asking about when I do go to buy one.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Andy K wrote:

From memory the belt drives the outer exhaust values.

The chain drives the inner inlet valves.

Given your original failure was the cambelt tension, i'm fairly sure as least one valve would be open on the drivers side during the cycle.

You could try and find an animation video of a TDV6 to see for yourself.

In the end it comes down to 2 things

1) How much have you got to put back on the car before you try and start it. that would then need to come off again.

2) Even if it does start, one valve could be slightly leaking on the drivers side head. resulting in fault codes etc

Will explain more later/when you got the first head off

OK, yip get what you are saying. Hopefully get the LH side completed in due course then can consider RH side.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

You could put your cam belt back on,
Leave your coolant system empty, leave the aux belt off, leave fan off, and start it for a minute. This would give you enthusiasm you have a running engine again.

However, as I said if one of the valve is leaking on the drivers side, you will probably only know after giving it a good drive.
You would then need to remove all the belts at the front, covers, fan, coolant bridge between heads, drain coolant and pull the other head off. Up to you I guess.

Trouble with both these, if you have some loose metal in the drivers side, and run the engine, it could do a lot more damage than currently and you would kick yourself having been so close to fixing the car.


P.S When removing the head, coolant gets into the oil, but this is easily solved by lightly loosening the sump plug and the coolant drains out first.
Ideally you would do an oil change as its a good time to get rid of the black oil which sits on top of the heads.

Cheers Andy. That's some sound advice. I appreciate the knowledge you are passing on and various options I should have when I get this job moving on a bit.

Is there no way to fully drain the coolant so none gets into the oil or is that inevitable part of this process. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

inevitable really.

Drain plug in the block will remove all coolant from the heads before removal...

OK thanks, I shall have a look at taking the drain plug out.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Ow. Where is that then DM ?

OK, I need to go back a step regarding the HPFP cover...

From your memory... how do I get this cover - circled in red in attached picture - out from the bulkhead. What else do I need to take off. It doesn't seem to have any flex in it so I can't get it out the front way from where it sits, does it have to go towards the drivers side bulkhead.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8