What a huge performance that was! I admire your enterprise and your patience.
Personally I rely on paying for the LR extended warranty so as to avoid nightmares like this.
All I can say is bring back the WW beetle which could be fixed at the roadside with a basic set of tools by an ape. RRS (MY13) Santorini Black SDV6 HSE luxuary
Gone: Evoque, Freelander 2, Mercedes 320 CLK, Porsche 911's

yeap I think the small breathers are on an 8mm bolt.

Got that damn bracket off the back of the RH side eventually, what a that was, after having such an easy time initially stripping the RH side down.

RH side head gasket on, replacement head on, head bolts in and all torqued up, just need to bolt egr, manifold and put all pipes/electrics back where they came from, then begins putting the front of engine back together again  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

That was quick.

What was the state of the old head?

Yes after doing the LH side any other job was going to be quicker.

The old head had six or so bearing cap bolts loose and one of these bolts had snapped, however the chain was still in one piece unlike the LH side. The damage on the RH side seemed less than the LH side. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I'm setting up the cam timing just now on the RH side and noticing that the inside smaller cam (can't remember if this is the inlet or exhaust cam)... should sit in place and lobes not touch any of the lifters?

I ask this as I am finding that when I have set the cam timing up with both notches lined up with marks on the chain and timing pin in that the cam would almost need pressed down with the bearing caps tightened up. Is this correct as I am not sure whether to start bolting the bearing caps down if this isn't right. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Don't worry. Nothing wrong.

Although I would do them up without the timing pin in.

Superb!!! PHEW... was hoping you were going to say that. Thanks again Andy.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

OK, update on my saga is that timing belt is on and then hand cranked a good few times to get the tensioner pulley just right in the small window. Only thing I have noticed is that when I hand crank it round and all the marks line back up after two cycles of the crank the two cam locking pins go in no problem but the flywheel locking pin is a few millimetres out, what I mean is I just need to turn the crank (with top cam locking pins still in) round a fraction to get the flywheel locking pin in place.

Is this tolerance dangerous or if there anything I can do to rectify at this stage? cheers RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I wouldn't worry.

Good... cheers Andy, I just like to check these things as I encounter them.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

On and on like Atiston! RRS (MY13) Santorini Black SDV6 HSE luxuary
Gone: Evoque, Freelander 2, Mercedes 320 CLK, Porsche 911's

Got it started thanks for the advice throughout Andy and the others who gave some invaluable advice. Got some tidying up to do i.e. had a couple of diesel leaks and the message on the dash is reporting about the gearbox, it has an 'F' where is usually shows the gear it is in!

Anyone know what is the easiest way to get the air out the suspension, I need to get it onto it's bump stops. Is there a specific valve somewhere that would allow to let all remaining air out suspension system? I have so far removed the blue and red valve lines from the compressor but the air didn't release! RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Wondered how u were going.

Glad it's running.

As for the F check the connectors behind the battery. There are 2 that sort of float.

Black. And grey.

IID will drain all air and lower.

To get air out. Try loosening pipes on the valve block in front of compressor.
Think air will stay in struts though.

The lower button won't work?

The easiest way to get air out of the suspension is take it to a Range Rover specialist? RRS (MY13) Santorini Black SDV6 HSE luxuary
Gone: Evoque, Freelander 2, Mercedes 320 CLK, Porsche 911's