Dont forget to check the cam chain etc - if it has broken or become jammed that could be another reason each cam feels different - I have heard that the valves crashing into pistons on one side of the engine and the cam coming to a sudden stop can cause the cam chain or its bits to also fail.

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Thanks for the replies much appreciated

Regarding buying a cylinder head of Ebay would I replace both or one, has anyone had to do this before?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

You replace the damaged ones.

For example if a valve has bent over it could of

1. Damaged the head (i.e left a mark or gouge)
2. Damaged the valve seat (so it won't seal - seal can be tested by leaving a liquid on top and see if it remains or leaks away)
3, Damaged the bits opening the valve (e.g cam, chain)

So for the sake of £100 you get all that resolved, including the valve, but does not come with chain.

Cheers... so a replacement head could be the way to go.

Once this side is fixed, do I go on the assumption that the other side is also knackered?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

yeah while its in bits, you need to remove the other head for inspection.

Note the left head is more difficult to remove due to the rear fuel belt and having to cut the plastic away to get to the rear cam clamps

Yes, both heads need removed for inspection

And the LH head is a to get off in situ...

Andy K wrote:

You replace the damaged ones.

For example if a valve has bent over it could of

1. Damaged the head (i.e left a mark or gouge)
2. Damaged the valve seat (so it won't seal - seal can be tested by leaving a liquid on top and see if it remains or leaks away)
3, Damaged the bits opening the valve (e.g cam, chain)

So for the sake of £100 you get all that resolved, including the valve, but does not come with chain.

I did break off a valve in my old subaru - the valve head bounced around putting dents and gouges in the top of the piston and head - being tight I just replaced the valve and put the head back on - car ran fine for at least another 200,000km until I sold it. Is not recommended but something to consider  07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Thanks for replies....

DM, what to look out for taking the LH side off? I am just at the stage where taking the injectors out and the one nearest the back is a to get out, need to take bolts out that sit next to the rear belt to move the water pipe out the way to get the last injector out as I just can't squeeze it past the metal pipe!!!

What else to do next to dismantle LH head?

Cheers  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

The rear cam pulley is a
The turbo/manifold is a
The rear injector is a
Cam pulley bolts are bloody tight


It can all be done in situ, but I wouldn't even consider lifting the heads without taking the body off...

OK not looking too great for me then. I will try to tackle these jobs you listed one at a time DM. Is there any guides on here for these jobs?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I've taken the head off in situ.

Have a read of the rear cambelt procedure on the disco forum. There is a guide
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic53674.html


But basically you need to:

Remove the battery.
Disconnect the wiring loom from behind the battery (refer to cambelt procedure) and move it out the way for improved access.
Remove that top metal water pipe.
Remove rear injector.
Remove the headshields through the wheel arch. This is the worst job, as bolts can only be moved a fraction of a turn. Remember how they go back. Mark um.
Remove EGR all to gain access to exhaust manifold bolts.

I left the cam wheels attached to the cam and took it out as one piece.
Later used a vice to undo, to change the seals

OK cheers Andy, that will be this weekends to-do list  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

slowly getting all the parts off the LH side... however how the does the plastic box (part of the wiring loom I think) come apart that sits directly above the 3rd injector?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Hopefully you have the cambelt guide printed out.
It shows u in there.

A long flat blade screw driver to release the 2 clips from memory?

Once one side out, have a thin screwdriver to hand to put in the hole to stop it jumping back in.

Sort of see the things on the right in this picture

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCO...SwidlZZQ5f

Last edited by Andy K on Fri Aug 11 2017 7:36pm. Edited 1 time in total

This is compelling stuff, following this one with great interest. Many thanks to DerrekL for the regular updates. Hope for a satisfactory conclusion