Yes but, you need to connect the Live/Red Lead to the Battery and the Earth/Black lead to one of the Earth Studs due to the Battery Monitoring System, there are Several Studs on the inner wing valance close to the battery.

Cheers
Col

fdhadi wrote:

I recently bought a CTEC 5 charger. I have a 2011 RRS so can I connect the comfort wire to the battery and us that?

Hi, don't know where the battery on your 2011 RRS, but assume it is either located under the spare wheel, if you have one, in the trunk or under the bonnet near the engine ...

My battery is in the back, under a full size, i.e. 22' spare wheel and wiring it was not that comfortable ... I followed Jock and Phil's advise, and just connected the battery terminals in the bonnet! Easy job, and the Ctek and cables fit comfortably and safe under the bonnet.

The 2011 set up is different to the RRS 2 and does not have the separate Jump Start/ Booster terminal/connectors under the bonnet.

Cheers
Col

Cheers Col.

BTW do you know if the RRS 2 terminal connectors connect directly to the battery, or do those go through the whole circuit? I suppose those would go directly to the battery, seen that a Jump Start/Booster could possibly damage the circuit ... But I want to be 100% sure about this, as I am leaving my car always connected to the Ctek overnights, and will leave it connected when off on holidays for 2 weeks ... Don't want to return with some major probs on my return.

Thanks
Jan

Hi,

If you Google VPLWV0091 it will bring up bring up the fitting instructions etc. for the charging kit that L/R supply for the very expensive C-Tek charger they sell as a Accessory. As far as connecting the C-Tek charger to the terminals/connections under the bonnet I can't really see it would be any different than connecting a boost pack etc. to it as that is what Jock55 said he does and he hasn't mentioned having any issues.

http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/co...;tabs=fals

Cheers
Col

Last edited by Col on Mon Jun 27 2016 8:09am. Edited 1 time in total

this video might be very useful:

I asked my good lady to get me the CTEK MXS 5.0 as a present, (do some 2 mile runs a couple of times a day) she duly ordered it, but it was out of stock, so unknown to me, she purchased what I believe may be the next model up, the MXS 7.0. Could anyone confirm this is still OK to charge after short runs etc, and that connections to car/battery are the same as the 5.0 you have all been discussing? Also what's the difference between the two? Thank you.  John

RRS MY12 SDV6 HSE. Sumatra Black/Ebony & Walnut + Dynamic Pack, + Cold Climate Pack + Memory Pack, Digital TV/DVD, Premium Leather, Cornering Lights, Cooler/Fridge Box, & most Options.

Last edited by Johnski on Sun Jun 26 2016 9:37pm. Edited 1 time in total

Actually the 7.0 is a better option not that you need it but it can act as a power source as well, it connect in exactly the some way as a 5.0.

The 5.0 is rated for 110-160 Ah battery the 7.0 is 150-225 Ah.

Cheers
Col

Last edited by Col on Sun Jun 26 2016 9:38pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks for that Col.

Thanks from me to Col, saves a lot of research and checking.  John

RRS MY12 SDV6 HSE. Sumatra Black/Ebony & Walnut + Dynamic Pack, + Cold Climate Pack + Memory Pack, Digital TV/DVD, Premium Leather, Cornering Lights, Cooler/Fridge Box, & most Options.

No problem Guy's, if you have a look through my gallery If I remember right I think there are a couple of photos of the terminals I used to connect mine.

Cheers
Col

I will check that out, great thanks.  John

RRS MY12 SDV6 HSE. Sumatra Black/Ebony & Walnut + Dynamic Pack, + Cold Climate Pack + Memory Pack, Digital TV/DVD, Premium Leather, Cornering Lights, Cooler/Fridge Box, & most Options.

Col wrote:

Actually the 7.0 is a better option not that you need it but it can act as a power source as well, it connect in exactly the some way as a 5.0.

The 5.0 is rated for 110-160 Ah battery the 7.0 is 150-225 Ah.

Cheers
Col

5, 7, 10 and even 25 are all suitable for RRS. It's just that higher current means quicker charging. Plus as Col said 7 and upwards offer the power supply mode which can be very useful when a stable, uninterrupted 12v supply is needed for example when editing and uploading the CCF file to configure the car.

I have MXS 10 which I have used in RRS1 (via the boot power socket which I made permanent live by removing a relay) and RRS2 (via a comfort connector hardwired in the boot fuse box). No issues ever. Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

Just as a final point regarding length of charge, my neighbour owns a Shogun. He works in the marine industry and does 4 months on / 4 months off rotations. When he goes away he puts his car on a maintenance charge with a CTEK 7.0 for the full 4 months he is away and has never had a problem!

Regards,

Old Jock 2018 (MY19) Jaguar F-Pace R-Sport 300PS Petrol in Caesium Blue with many bells and whistles.
2015 RRS HSE SDV6 Firenze Red with Santorini Panoramic Glass Roof, gone but not forgotten.