I am seeing 45 MPG on my TDV8 and it handles better than my GT3 So its off to the ring with the Rangey Not.......  2014 5.0SC AB

Gone 5.0 SC

Hi I am new to this forum having bought a RRsport 2006 tdv6 2.7 in December. I am only getting 20mpg around town and around 24mpg on the motorway and i am gutted as i thought i should be getting 27/28 on average and one of the reasons for buying the car. it has full land rover service history and around 60k miles

I also dont have dynamic mode- what is the equivalent of this on older models soi can try this

also i have seen the info around re-mapping- does this really make a difference as i was considering gettig this to improve the economy

is there anything else i can do like flush the oil out, put in injection cleaner fluid

also i changed the alloys to 22" alloys- would this reduce consumption a lot?

20 mpg round town about normal.

Should be a bit higher on motorways 27-28 mpg but cold weather does bring these figures down. You will find more mpg when spring and summer get here.

Can someone pref with some suitable qualification
explain why it is that there are so many references to the cold weather effecting fuel consumption.

now i know the obvious, yes the vehicle will take another half a mile to warm up
hence a possible hit on the fuel. but as far as i am aware once the vehicle is at
normal temp the outside temp will have no effect on fuel.

if i were to drain the vehicle of coolant it would overheat within a couple of miles even
in this laughable excuse of a super cold uk here at the moment.

also if there is some tech guy in the furum, the other excuse used to explain poor fuel consumption
is the 'your using all those leccy gadgets' 'heated seats, windscreens etc' 'now that'll cause poor fuel'

why ?

I always thought that deisel combusted on compression and so called power from the battery
was only really reqd for the pre-heating. as for when the vehicle is up and running, a diesel doesn't
rely so much on battery juice. other than i feel this is a nonsense suggestion anyway
as in the summer the air con will be the blame for poor summer fuel consumption.

Well, the FBH burns about 0.5l/h at full load and about 0.25l/h at part. load, not much maybe, but....

Yes, the Diesel does not need electrical power per se, but still it has to recharge the battery of all the juice used by the electrical equipment, this means more load on the engine and more fuel consumption, how much I can't tell. '08 RRS TDV8
I converted my diesel RRS to run on an environmentally friendly mixture of caribou fat and baby seals oil

Hope I do not get in the for nicking this.....

COLD WEATHER PROBLEMS OF DIESEL ENGINES

Marine Design Center
By: Michael Kelley and Jeremy Coatsworth

Recently, several Army Corps of Engineers' vessels have experienced severe mechanical problems with their diesel engines. A review of operational history and environmental conditions reveals that both played a part in these mishaps. The two factors combined to cause excessive exhaust product buildup resulting in sticking exhaust train components and significant engine damage.

The buildup of exhaust products in a partial liquid state (commercially referred to as wetstacking) is peculiar to diesel engines. Wetstacking, in the advanced stages, may appear as a thick, black tar-like substance leaking from any (and sometimes all) connections in the exhaust system. The deposited material is in fact a combination of moisture, unburnt fuel, soot and other combustion by-products. The amount of material that builds up during engine operation is directly related to how the engine is operated and its environment.

The engines operating history is the most significant factor in the buildup of exhaust products. Diesel engines are designed to operate under a loaded condition. Engine operation for extended periods of time under a no-load condition (excessive idling) causes problems. Low loading of the engine causes low combustion chamber temperatures, incomplete combustion and results in increased depositing of material on exhaust train components. Excessive buildup of these deposits may cause exhaust valves to stick either open or closed. A stuck open valve may cause piston damage; a stuck closed valve, a bent push rod. These problems can be further exacerbated by the environment in which the engine is run.

Diesel engines perform significantly better at a steady state with regards to temperature. Typically, a colder intake air charge will allow the engine to produce more power thereby providing for better operating conditions. However, it is possible for a significantly lower intake air temperature to decrease combustion temperatures, producing an adverse effect. The cold air actually affects engine operation in several ways. The first is in the combustion process itself. A diesel engine uses no external source of heat for ignition and must therefore rely on the heat of the reactants (fuel and air) to aid in the combustion process. Cold incoming air and cold fuel cause the combustion temperature to be even further reduced in the idling engine resulting in increased carbon and tar buildup. Cold air also causes fuel detonation instead of deflagration (explosion instead of burning) resulting in burnt pistons. This phenomenon, at its most severe, can cause a diesel running at low speed to fail to idle due to its inability to maintain combustion temperature.

The environment can have a negative affect on the engine, even when it's not running. The thick black material that was formed while the engine was running is still there. The lower the temperature, the thicker this material becomes and can in fact harden, almost to the point of forming a black, glassy semi-solid. The harder the material, the greater the chances of engine damage. As the engine is placed back into an operating condition, the valves will seat on the hardened solid, frequently causing the material to crack. The solid particles may end up in the lubricating system of the engine causing scoring on cylinder walls. Engine efficiency will decrease due to the cracked area in the solid buildup, which allows exhaust gases to leak past the valve seat, thereby reducing compression pressures.

Regardless of the actual origin of engine damage (stuck open or stuck shut valve), or the temperature in which it occurred, the resultant repairs are costly and the resultant vessel or generator downtime will be significant.

What can be done then to prevent or minimize this problem? There are, in fact, several operational items which can be used together or separately to decrease the probability of engine damage.

The most significant, most obvious, and yet sometimes the hardest to do is don't idle the engine for extended periods of time. If the engine doesn't run, it doesn't produce exhaust products.
Increase engine load. One engine running at 50% load is significantly better than two engines at 25% load. Alternate engines. The more load the hotter the combustion, the hotter the exhaust and less build up of products. This may be easier to do on generators.
If the engine(s) is/are run at idle for a portion of the day, prior to shutdown, take the vessel out and work the engines for at least an hour. This is the equivalent to taking your car out on the road and “blowing the carbon out”.
Change the fuel. #1 diesel fuel or a blend of #1 and #2 should be considered for low temperature climates. Changing the fuel in this manner results in higher combustion temperature and fewer combustion bi-products. Note, however, that changing to #1 fuel may result in a drop in engine power.
Run a fuel additive. There are several diesel fuel additives on the market that are formulated to enhance winter engine performance. The additives provide some of the benefits of a fuel change without the negative power loss. The U.S. Navy and U.S. Coast Guard have performed studies to examine the effectiveness of fuel additives, however no formal conclusions have been reached.
Heat the air. Heating the surrounding air and combustion air can help mitigate the problem. This may be accomplished by rerouting the air intake to nearer the exhaust manifold, installing a manifold heater, reducing cooling water to the aftercooler (best done with a thermostat), which would produce a decreased cooling effect, or simply raising the room temperature. Maintaining the room warm at night with the engines shutdown may also promote softer deposits, preventing them from hardening and possibly causing severe damage. With the deposits remaining in a softer physical state, they will typically be forced out of the combustion space and through the exhaust system once load is placed on the engine, without damaging engine components.
Raise jacket water heater (block heater) temperature. Increase the jacket water thermostat to 100 ° F. This may promote softer deposits. This action may require installation of a larger or even a second block heater to prevent excessive heater cycling.
Install a higher temperature thermostat. Increasing thermostat temperature will provide a warmer engine and softer deposits.

Operators should review their diesel engine procedures to determine if they need to have a special set of operating procedures for the colder months. Procedures which work fine in the summer months, when followed in the winter months, may in fact cause engine failure and significantly increase repair costs over time.

BLH wrote:

.......... other than i feel this is a nonsense suggestion anyway as in the summer the air con will be the blame for poor summer fuel consumption.

I was being a little sarcastic as regard to the 'air con in summer' comment.
As Land Rover's excuse for the poor winter fuel consumption is due to electrical systems being used
hence in the summer their excuse will switch to the air con running on overdrive....
therefore their pre-armed with excuses all year round.

I personally leave the air con on all year long. it actually doesn't have a great deal to do in the
winter as regards to system power sucking when compared to the summer months.

Nice techy write up....

Alex,
I had exactly that problem on my MY2000 MB E320cdi straight 6 engine,I'd taken it in for service and was asked to pop into the workshop,there was a channel running full length of the engine which the injectors sat in,it just looked as if someone had pored chocolate cake mixture in the channel and cooked it at gas mark 8.About 3 foot long 3inches thick block of black gooey mess,they broke 1 injector chiselling it out and subsequently needed another which failed later and had to have the head off to re-thread the holes that the injectors were screwed into,total cost about £1500 with a warning that it wasn't cured so got shut PDQ. MY2011 HSE Santorini/Ivory/Piano Black/Privacy Glass/TV .Sadly gone.
Audi A5 Sportback Black Edition 3.0 tdi quattro S Line

Hi everyone, I've just joined the forum because having recently bought a 59-reg RRS 3.0 TDV6 HSE, I was disappointed with the fuel consumption and wanted to find out if anyone else was experiencing the same. I love the car and am really pleased with it but, like the original poster, I think the mpg that is claimed in the brochure should be achievable so I did a search and came across this thread.

On Sunday, I tested the car by filling up, driving a mix of town and motorway to try to replicate an extra urban cycle and then filling up again. The trip computer registered 26.3mpg but the actual diesel used worked out at 23.5mpg. This compared to the claimed Extra Urban of 34.9mpg doesn't look good!

I would like to ask:
1) The OP talks about putting the car in Dynamic mode. Is that on the 3.0 and if so, how do I do that?
2) The OP says there have been problems with airflow sensors. How do I go about getting mine checked? Will LR change it under warranty?

Any other advice you can give on this would be appreciated!

my 3.0 HSE is around 26 mpg mate, but thats nearly double what i saw in the S/C petrol so its a novelty to me

mines up at around 30mpg - its done 34 i recall and as low as 28...im happy at 30, would always like 34 again though.

It likes a run and did 34 on a 300mile trip (2 150miles various driving) Mike

2014 Facelift Discovery

my sdv6 in 2011 Disco commercial returns 27-28 RT and 33 motorway, can get it down to 23 ish RT if very heavy with the right foot. 2014 5.0SC AB

Gone 5.0 SC

x5pea wrote:

my 3.0 HSE is around 26 mpg mate, but thats nearly double what i saw in the S/C petrol so its a novelty to me

I hear you and compared to my 911 turbo this isnt too bad!

If anyone can help answer my 2 questions above I'd really appreciate it

There are lots of non qualified mpg numbers in this thread which I assume are from the trip comp. If so remember it lies/over-reads by 2 - 5 mpg. Well you didn't by a LR (well D3 in drag) to save da planet!!