RRSPORT.CO.UK • View topic - Fuel burning heater not starting


		^ Advertise here ^ RRSPORT.CO.UK
		Forum Gallery Shop Sponsors

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Members Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical > Fuel burning heater not starting

Page 4 of 10

kav1187

Member Since: 04 Apr 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 307

2006 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Bonatti Grey

I'm in Essex. No idea if it will fire up when I start the car though...will let you know tomorrow Want to do a DIY job on your car? Check out the definitive 'how to' thread in the technical section

http://rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic28424.html

Wed Jan 23 2013 6:08pm

madmackie

Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: wigan lancashire
Posts: 285

2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Bonatti Grey

pm sent

Wed Jan 23 2013 6:11pm

sherlock

Member Since: 29 Dec 2011
Location: Burscough
Posts: 690

2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Santorini Black

I have always wondered if mine worked as I never ever see smoke from the small exhaust. So the other day after the car had started I opened the bonnet and felt the consatina style pipe - what a nob!! Damn hot and burnt my hand. I assume it works then hey? TDV8 HSE, Remap (+45 BHP + 100 Nm), Taylored sport exhaust system by Pipe Werx
20" HST alloys, Privacy glass, Side steps, Xenon Adaptive Lighting, Adaptive cruise control

Wed Jan 23 2013 6:11pm

kav1187

Member Since: 04 Apr 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 307

At least you're sure it works

I've added a link on my previous post to ebay where someone is selling the OBD cables as I forgot to mention it.

I really hope it'll start up from cold! Want to do a DIY job on your car? Check out the definitive 'how to' thread in the technical section

http://rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic28424.html

Wed Jan 23 2013 6:37pm

RobP

Member Since: 21 Jun 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 280

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Java Black

Wow Kav, excellent and informative post and you have just saved me from posting the full "how to" post I intended to do.

My leads only turned up today so not had chance to do anything yet but the only difference will be that I will add how to adapt one of THESE £1.99 OBDII adapter leads

to avoid having to do this bit

Click image to enlarge

Not critical but just makes a slightly neater solution

TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

Wed Jan 23 2013 8:46pm

RobP

Member Since: 21 Jun 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 280

kav1187 wrote:
I really hope it'll start up from cold!

There should be no reason why it doesn't

TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

Last edited by RobP on Wed Jan 23 2013 8:50pm. Edited 1 time in total

Wed Jan 23 2013 8:50pm

madmackie

Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: wigan lancashire
Posts: 285

cant wait to see it rob

Wed Jan 23 2013 8:50pm

kav1187

Member Since: 04 Apr 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 307

Rob - the neatest solution is to just run a wire from port 2 on the FBH connector to port 7 on the diagnostic socket under the steering wheel. That way you don't have to mess about with the battery or even have to open your bonnet.

I'll be doing this when I next get a chance.

Your connector should work providing that 3 of the 4 pins go to the ports we use for the FBH

Crocodile clips for the battery terminal connections might be best. I just wedged mine in Want to do a DIY job on your car? Check out the definitive 'how to' thread in the technical section

http://rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic28424.html

Wed Jan 23 2013 9:11pm

RobP

Member Since: 21 Jun 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 280

kav1187 wrote:
Rob - the neatest solution is to just run a wire from port 2 on the FBH connector to port 7 on the diagnostic socket under the steering wheel. That way you don't have to mess about with the battery or even have to open your bonnet.

I'll be doing this when I next get a chance.

Your connector should work providing that 3 of the 4 pins go to the ports we use for the FBH

Crocodile clips for the battery terminal connections might be best. I just wedged mine in

Yes Kav you are right the ultimate solution is to populate the OBDII port in the car as you suggest with the K bus pin 7.

A the moment I cant be

to run the lead back into the cabin but if it becomes a regular need I can think again

the black plug contains +ve and -ve which i will replace with the croc clips i ordered at the same time for 99p

and the white plug has K bus (pin 7 in OBDII plug) and L bus (pin 15 in OBDII plug) i will simply ignore the L bus cable and just use the K bus one.

All three wires that are needed

TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

Wed Jan 23 2013 9:25pm

kav1187

Member Since: 04 Apr 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 307

Perfect! That'll do the trick nicely Want to do a DIY job on your car? Check out the definitive 'how to' thread in the technical section

http://rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic28424.html

Wed Jan 23 2013 9:41pm

mjbrr

Member Since: 31 May 2012
Location: Durham
Posts: 81

2009 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Santorini Black

Nice clear write up Kav.

Looks easy enough 2009 3.6 TDV8 HSE Santorini Black

Wed Jan 23 2013 11:03pm

RobP

Member Since: 21 Jun 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 280

As promised here are the details of the adapter lead I have just made up.

Thanks to Kav for his excellent post You will still need the parts he lists
OBDII USB lead from the great bay of e. (about £7-£8 )
FBH connector pin/wire from the forum shop HERE £1.20

And in addition
2x2 OBDII adaptor. Designed for the older VAG cars to use with the main OBDII USB cable. Mine cost £2 from ebay and came from the same seller as the main lead
A couple of crocodile clips, some wire to extend the cable, a fuse holder (i used a 3amp fuse) a male & female crimp bullet terminal and some heat shrink to keep it all neat.

Tools needed: cutters, ratchet crimpers, soldering iron / solder & multimeter (essential to verify wires to pins your self)

Start with the lead

This is the pin layout

IMPORTANT

Having made several of the leads now. You MUST verify the lead colors yourself using a multimeter to ensure they go to the correct pins. DO NOT rely on the wire colors in the pictures

Cut off the black plug and strip outer sleeve (this is for the power connections)

Extend the black and red cables by soldering and covering with heat shrink,

adding the fuse holder to the red 12v+ cable and add the croc clips to the leads

Now cut off white plug and strip a bit of outer sleeve. There are two wires and you will only need the one connected to pin 7 in the main plug.

Click image to enlarge

Using the multimeter I identified this to be the black lead so simply snipped the red lead off. However you should verify this is the right lead your self in case your lead is wired differently

Click image to enlarge

I extended the cable by soldering on another small length of wire to which I added the male crimp connector and then heat shrink for neatness

This is the finished item plugged into the OBDII USB

If you follow this part from Kavs instructions to install the single wire from the forum shop

kav1187 wrote:

This is the connector we need to plug our diagnostics port into. The port I've arrowed in the pic is the one we need to stick the red cable into (port 2).

Flip it over so that you can read the port numbers.

Use a paperclip to slide the pink release mechanism to the right.

Insert the paperclip into port 2 and push the rubber bung out.

Take the red cable and insert it into the hole. The spikey bit should face towards the outer face of the connector. You will hear it click when it goes all the way in.

Slide the pink mechanism back to the left to lock the cables in place.

You will be left with this

And the finally add the female crimp terminal to the bare end of that wire. To connect the OBDII lead now all you need to do is attach the croc clip wires to the battery terminals and plug together the male / female connectors

It was too late to test the lead tonight but I will report back as soon as I have. TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

Last edited by RobP on Mon Feb 04 2013 10:13pm. Edited 3 times in total

Thu Jan 24 2013 11:25pm

madmackie

Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: wigan lancashire
Posts: 285

Great post rob "Remember its easier to say sorry than it is to get permission " especially off the Mrs !!

Thu Jan 24 2013 11:40pm

kav1187

Member Since: 04 Apr 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 307

Fantastic write up mate

Good effort!

When trying to connect to the laptop I found that it worked in this order for me...

1. Connect OBD cable to laptop and install drivers
2. Load Webasto software
3. Wait for car to go into sleep mode (radio screen off, handbrake warning light on dash off) doors closed.
4. Select the correct COM port in the Webasto program
5. Connect cables to battery and heater
6. Start diagnosis
7....watch it hang...close the "initialising WTT window"
8. Start diagnosis
9. Tick on view to see live data.
10. View/clear faults
11. Fuel prime
12. Control>parking heater
13. Enjoy the bonfire Want to do a DIY job on your car? Check out the definitive 'how to' thread in the technical section

http://rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic28424.html

Fri Jan 25 2013 12:04am

erikh

Member Since: 15 Mar 2012
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 24

2006 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Zermatt Silver

So a really stupid question perhaps - if I buy the Faultmate FCR it will only let me read and clear codes, will that be good enough?

I wouldn't mind buying the parts and such, problem is that I am not THAT handy at soldering etc. so unless someone wants to, provided I transferred the money needed, buy, assemble and post me what is needed - would the Faultmate help?

Erik

Fri Jan 25 2013 4:03pm

Page 4 of 10

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum