Maybe worth just checking the in tank low pressure fuel pump is working. You should be able to hear it for about 10 secs after turning the ignition to on. You can also check at the LP schrader valve at rear centre of engine, again switch ignition on and you should get a steady low pressure fuel supply out of the valve. If you change the filter and the LP pump isn't working you'll have fun trying to start it as air will be in the lines.

Thanks for your comment 2 RRS, hear what your saying about air in fuel system post filter change. This filter looks like its got a water sensor on it, so more work lol

I have noticed that the car starts on the second turn of key, rarely on the first time. Almost gives the impression of fuel leaking back. Am i right in thinking the fuel system on this car is self bleeding ?

Yes, self bleeding. As long as your LP tank pump is working, after changing the filter, cycle the ignition a few times (2-3) and this will then prime the filter and fuel lines. Water in fuel sensor just unscrews from bottom of filter after you've removed it from the filter housing.

What the OP has not told us is this a new purchase with issues or has he been driving it for months with no problems?
Have you tried charging the battery ? KISS Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Agreed i should of given a bit more background

I bought this vehicle with a completely detonated engine (2.7 276DT) so i knew i had to do some work on it. ( So it never ran and i was unaware of any old issues it may of had). The park brake emergency cord was pulled as the battery was knackered and the vehicle needed loading onto trailer. Upon removing the engine i noticed a conrod had come through both sides of the block, i noted the starter motor was smashed hard damaging the gearbox bellhousing and starter mounting point, so i had to purchase a gearbox for this vehicle (6 speed auto). The replacement engine still had the Gen 1 oil pump on, so i changed that for the modified Gen 2 FAI pump. I also changed oil filter for a MAHLE branded one wit Castrol Magnatec oil. I fitted all new belts Front and rear with new tensioners and idlers. Added a new waterpump as old one was noisy. As for injectors and HP Pump i used the ones from the old engine 1. the injectors would already be coded to the ecu, 2. Cost. Whilst the injectors were out i also fitted 2 new rocker gaskets as preventative measure only.

So once engine in and all gearbox's bolted in place i bled the fuel system and engine started, i noted it was lumpy (but not noisy) so i put on the code reader i had (MUCAR BT200) it came up with a list of dtc's (as listed in topic)

On the IPC message screen there's a 'F' in the gear selection part, Then there's the diagnostic cycle messages

"Transmission Fault Limited gears available"

"HDC Fault system not available"

Also there's another message saying "special programs not available"

The MUCAR system wouldn't let me reset anything so i purchased a JLR diagnostic tool from UKDiagnostics which allows me to do resets.

I've relatched the epb system using the software, although i'm convinced i'll have to investigate the rear brakes at some point.


Hope i've given as much history that'll help.

As for battery its a new one (019)

Nominal volt 12.9

Charging 14.48 vlt

For the handbrake go to youtube channel "LR Time" he shows a total removal and repair of the electric handbrake system. Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

LR Time, Christian, his videos have been my saviour (Its where i learned about the oil pumps and oil grades)

Stripping the EPB module seemed a straight forward job to do, i dont have any screaming (slipping clutch) i think i may have a seized or partial seized cable, but the vehicle has been stood now for around 8 - 9 months so i expected brake issues. Although the metal surround covering the EPBM looks like it's gonna put up a fight lol


I just want to say thank you to you guys for taking the time to give me advice, i really appreciate it

Another silly thing to check is the brake bulbs. Blown brake bulbs can cause the HDC failure message because the HDC is hardwired in to the brake system and brake lights work when it is operating. Blown bulbs will prevent HDC operation.

It's unlikely to be the cause as you have the transmission fault too, but it's an easy thing to check. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Gearbox fault will definitely be related to the Mechatronics unit, the vin in your donor gearbox will not match the original stored in the BCM and engine ecu, hence the fault. Many years ago I changed the gearbox in my L320, but carried over the original Mechatronics unit and all was fine, other than needing to do a transfer case clutch re-learn.

You've a couple of options, fit the original Mechatronic unit to the donor box or get the donor coded to match your vehicle vin.

Hope this helps!

Thanks guys for the comments i will look into these.

As for the mechatronic unit from original the box and old engine were scrapped. I dont have anything to reprogram the current mechatronic

I will check all brake bulbs and let you know

JLR will have you believe only a new Mechatronic unit can be assigned a VIN and only once, however it can be done, find a friendly person with SDD and perform a replace 'Mechatronic unit routine' and it will overwrite the donor vin. Not sure if GAP IID can do it, if not I'm sure Patrick at Gap could enable it, obviously you'd need a GAP IID tool (not cheap, but well worth it in the long run).

Good luck

yes it can be done with GAP IDD.

Need to give Pat the VIN so he can sort it

Sadly i dont have a gap IID tool

Where are you based