Aux cooler can be bypassed

I see does seem a bit excessive , now spent £12 quid dammit! Bit bulky but done , why would you need this ?

Any way on the home run , waiting for Ravenol , quick tips on bleeding system , if it doesn't leak ?

Many thanks for your tips in all this Mike, been awesome!

Was standard on all pre facelift TDV8s

Uk spec facelift TDV8 never had the aux cooler. I've removed if from mine, with the pipe from a late car

Is that pipe affordable Mike, the link I made up is causing all sorts of problem in plastic fittings . Around inner shield and bumper, although I've fashioned it a bit . I like things as they should be, but maybe that link you used, is simple enough If I remove the matrix I could use the joints I have , they are just double house tails and a pipe.

Had to take the bumper off again for the umpteenth time! Inner arch was not right,. I researched the face-lift pipe and it was £200 , so redesigned my new link, and create more space. Tried to get s/h original pipe but it seems they are also rotten, and if they aren't they are sold with the radiator.

Trying to move forward here, first of all I've found a garage with snap on to possibly bleed my unit .
Unfortuneately my suspension height control has given up , possibly upset by taking the pipe off the front right for pipe renewal. Now it says the module isn't responding. I managed to deflate every corner , but nothing is happening , using GAP IID. Also the jStability roll warning is red . Possibly two things the suspension is collapsed and DR needing bled . So I have disconnected the battery.
Any advance on that welcome please!


Suspension working again , unsure as to what's the best setting GAP DOESNT Do much for Default. Never sure what is standard on this Diagnostic as long as it looks OK.

Uh Oh, final curtain, progress was being made and airlock were disappearing until I went to undo passenger bleed nipple, and it snapped!!! Gutted , car now Sorned. I'll need to figure out a way to get the rest of the bleed screw out. Given the very small fluid hole to get a extraction bit in there, any handy tips , managed to undo the drop arms but rotation of the bar is not enough to get access with a drill to get a large enough extraction kit to remove the remaining . I presume there are lots of seals around the plate , if I was to apply a little heat?


HELP , ideas, suggestions! Much appreciated.

Again , looks like no assistance here.
I am still on this case , to help myself here , everyone has a budget I expect , but by the time someone buys a car of this age , dealers and maybe Specialists are out of the question , so fixing yourself is the only option and hopefully dedicated forums like this can help.
I have typed a lot of posts and a pm , I know everyone is busy so Hopefully I can move forward on this one . , pre-empting the length that this car might take to fix, I have sorned it.

I have been in touch with GAPIID and the long and short of it all is I am missing files in the CCF on Dynamic response , With out saying , something has been bypassed when I see the pump was no longer driven for it.
So I have restored the Dynamic response as "fitted" within the diagnostic.
I have also refurbed the the air compressor for the suspension with a seal kit and intake Drier filter beads. The suspension was always slow to rise in front and through a lot of testing once , it became hot,

Since all that, the system has been difficult to reinstate to normality i.e.: still slow to response at the front throwing up a fault code similar to that and occasionally the orange warning on anti roll control.
Bearing in mind that this is and still is a problem bleeding ..
I have been able to bleed one side which consumed a bit more fluid from the reservoir, which is good to know!

However , after all this I am still in touch with GAP and since getting the car to rise and struggling to achieve full height , I have locked off the monitoring by pulling the fuse, as the drivers side is not nearly the full height in the front as the nearside. After 4 hours after pulling the fuse, not one corner has moved from initial measurements, What can I figure out from this , is the front control valve faulty or the height sensor gone.
I have gone into the valves on testing in GAP and trying to raise the offside front doesn't move .Basically will not equalize across the front axle lift.
Some guidance would be helpful please, I am going round in circles!

Just to add 18hrs later with the the 20 amp fuse out F26 the rear suspension is unchaged but the front drivers has dropped 3.5 mm and nearside 4mm .Front driver was at 51mm and nearside 55 .That is taken for consistancy at the base of the centre cap.
Still one of two things or both , either sensor or valve ?

Struggling to achieve full height, as in off road height?

yes, especially drivers,. have it all stripped on full height at the moment and doing some leak detection on front valve block.

Ok found the pipe connection to the front drivers strut leaking.
One of those awkward fittings you have thread through the strut top mount, I think it would better replaced., leaking at o ring.
I removed it to renew the active roll hyd pipes.

Can anyone point me to using a repair kit to replace the end fitting with new pipe into the strut and then join with quick release to old pipe, Most of what I see are Hitachi , but they maybe the same pipes. Limited space above the strut top ror a straight union.

Just to add 18hrs later with the the 20 amp fuse out F26 the rear suspension is unchaged but the front drivers has dropped 3.5 mm and nearside 4mm .Front driver was at 51mm and nearside 55 .That is taken for consistancy at the base of the centre cap.
Still one of two things or both , either sensor or valve ?

Can I ask that by tightening suspension in the down position, ie;dropped , not only affects the bushes but in turn upset the height control.