Yes I got a hold of a lot of documentation from various places on the Internet which are very useful for reference.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

OK, so my local Pug dealer will sell an oil pump (1001G2) for £131.00. I got this part number from another post, is this the correct one?

I am going to Peugeot parts dept today/tomorrow to see the oil pump before I buy it. Is there specific markings/serial number on it that determines will fit?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I guess you could take the old one or broken one with you, to make sure the mating face to the engine is the same

Cheers Andy... yes was planning on doing that anyways just to make doubly sure it was same as old one, well apart from having the new 'strengthened' web part on it.

Replacement heads are here, and by this weekend I should have all other parts in my possession, hopefully ready to start putting back together  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

U got the 2nd head off then ?

Not yet, I bought a pair of heads as I was getting the impression that no doubt there would be damage (anything from minor to major damage) to the RH side head also. So just decided to get the pair at the same time. If no damage to the RH side, when I get it off then great, 'won a watch' I can then sell the RH head on again. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Got replacement head LH side on bench now ready (I think) to put on car. So, best way to go about this would be.....?

1) Bolt head on (with exhaust studs attached or not?)
2) This is where I would like to find best way to get cams back in place taking into account the HPFP belt still to be put in place
3) Put cam tensioner on chain on cams, set cams up correctly and bolt in place
4) Attach exhaust manifold
5) Attach EGR valve (Does this have to go back on the car, then I would blank it off?) RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Check all the threaded holes are clear. Wind bolts in all the way.
In particular the belt tensioner hole at back and fuel rail mount.
So much easier to find you have an issue now rather than later.

Make sure the bracket for the water pipe is fitted at the back.

Clean engine face off to ensure clean.

Put head on with exhaust studs, gasket and green thing which I think helps keep gasket from falling off.

Check everything is aligned.

Put head bolts in as tighten as per sequence.

You can put a bit of wire into the chain tensioner to keep in together

Put clean oil into a jar and put the hydraulic lifters in one by one and pump them to draw in oil.
Fit to head.

Note the chain has 2 red links. This is to allign with cams square cuts outs to ensure it's timed correctly.

If the cam wheels are still fitted with cover you need to get them and chain back into the head.
Get the chain tensioner in between chain and fitted the correct way round so the oil hole in aligned.

The cam brackets must match the head it came from.
They are engraved with numbers to show their position. Refer to manual.

Fit bolts hand tight. Ensure you are happy with timing and red chain links still by cut outs.

The clamps by the wheels have some glue under it to seal it (as per eBay link)

Rotate cams a small amount to ensure they move freely.

Get rear belt and cover sorted. Fun!

With this it's aways worth checking things are alligned and getting bolts half in to ensure the sequence is possible and things alligned.

Before fitting cam cover for the last time ensure chain tension pin is removed , the rear fuel pipe is loosly fitted and pour a bit of fresh oil over cams

Tighten exhaust manifold and don't forget heat shield before egrs!

Rear egr pipe is bigger than front so the blanks don't fit

Thanks Andy. I will be using your points as reference as I go.

Having a bit of a nightmare today trying to get the head on with the exhaust bolts still attached to the head. I'm getting the exhaust bolts to line up with the manifold but don't have the balls to start wiggling it to seat it into new head gasket as it keeps getting proper stuck

So, I think best for me would be to take off exhaust bolts off first and should seat head on a bit easier.


About the head gaskets.... I take it anyone of the two gaskets can go any head? As the two I got have the same part number i.e. they are not specific to LH or RH, is that correct? RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

The HGaskets aren't handed.

You can practice getting the studs out the old head.

OK thanks.

Yes indeed, will have a go at the old head and see how I go with that first.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Got the head on eventually (without cams as yet, that's one of the next jobs), exhaust manifold gasket and studs are back on. Next will be putting on the EGR valve then it should be the cams and HPFP including cover. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Disco_Mikey wrote:

Andy K wrote:

I removed the cam with the wheels still on, with the belt cover hanging around it

I decided to change the cam seals, which I did in the vice.
I must have clamped the cam in the vice (at an unimportant point).

I probably tightened both ends at the same time.

I found the torque and angle tightening figures rather ridiculous. Worried the bolt/cam would break, so they were torqued and then done up tight.

The cam then went back into the car, with the cover hanging around it.

80Nm then 90 degrees

Cam seals need fitted in place once the cam caps have been torqued
Then the cam pulleys need fitted and tightened...

Yes

OK thanks Mikey RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8