Cheers Andy, regarding the print out for the cambelt guide ... well hmmmm... that's another story.

I only see a 'photobucket' picture listed throughout this guide. Did you have to create a photobucket account to view these pictures.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

storm update...

Rocker cover removed. Found timing chain snapped.

What are my options?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Disco_Mikey wrote:

The rear cam pulley is a
The turbo/manifold is a
The rear injector is a
Cam pulley bolts are bloody tight


It can all be done in situ, but I wouldn't even consider lifting the heads without taking the body off...

I'm now at the rear cam pulley. Thought I read somewhere that the casing had to be cut/destroyed to gain access to the cam pulley bolt. How do I at least attempt this one?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Andy K wrote:

I've taken the head off in situ.

Have a read of the rear cambelt procedure on the disco forum. There is a guide
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic53674.html


But basically you need to:

Remove the battery.
Disconnect the wiring loom from behind the battery (refer to cambelt procedure) and move it out the way for improved access.
Remove that top metal water pipe.
Remove rear injector.
Remove the headshields through the wheel arch. This is the worst job, as bolts can only be moved a fraction of a turn. Remember how they go back. Mark um.
Remove EGR all to gain access to exhaust manifold bolts.

I left the cam wheels attached to the cam and took it out as one piece.
Later used a vice to undo, to change the seals

Got the rocker cover off and removed cam shafts to gain access to the 8 head bolts. Next job to tackle will be fuel pump side. What's to be done at this stage?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

good work.

And as least you found one of the problems.

Is the chain tensioner ok?



Remove the fuel belt. (remove the tensioner in the middle)

I then cut round the belt cover to gain access to the bolts holding the cam in. (I used a soldering iron and tied later with file) I'm sure you will see what I mean

Then I lifted the cam and belt cover out as one assembly

Cheers... I think the chain tensioner is OK, I lifted it out along with the small spring.

Yes I now see what you mean regarding the part of the casing that needs to be cut away to access the two bolts holding the cam in.

To remove the fuel belt I have unclipped the 3 clips at the top of the case and flipped it open, I assume I need to somehow squeeze my hand behind the top of the fuel pump casing armed with spanner and take the tensioner off first working blind. Is that the way to go? or is there any other way.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

That's correct.

would recommend you get this on order from china.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LOCTITE-...SwLpdW9~DJ

Used to stick/seal the cam end caps down.

if/when it comes to needing heads, I would recommend these guys.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-7-DIESEL-CYLIN...SwurZZHXMt


More expensive than when I looked last, but see it has a chain in the pic. and cam sensor.

Curious Andy, how did you torque up the rear cam pulley bolt?

I removed the cam with the wheels still on, with the belt cover hanging around it

I decided to change the cam seals, which I did in the vice.
I must have clamped the cam in the vice (at an unimportant point).

I probably tightened both ends at the same time.

I found the torque and angle tightening figures rather ridiculous. Worried the bolt/cam would break, so they were torqued and then done up tight.

The cam then went back into the car, with the cover hanging around it.

I'm starting to undo the high pressure fuel pump tensioner bolt, total pig to get to. What's the score with taking the belt off at this stage, do i just continue to take the tensioner bolt fully out. How does the belt slacken.

I have the HPFP cover off at the bulkhead side but can't get it out to get a wee bit more room, does it come out at all.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

2.7 belt isn't timed, so take it right off

Belt cover comes right out too

Andy K wrote:

I removed the cam with the wheels still on, with the belt cover hanging around it

I decided to change the cam seals, which I did in the vice.
I must have clamped the cam in the vice (at an unimportant point).

I probably tightened both ends at the same time.

I found the torque and angle tightening figures rather ridiculous. Worried the bolt/cam would break, so they were torqued and then done up tight.

The cam then went back into the car, with the cover hanging around it.

80Nm then 90 degrees

Cam seals need fitted in place once the cam caps have been torqued
Then the cam pulleys need fitted and tightened...

Good stuff thanks DM.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8