Hi!

After having 2 full fat RR's (1x 3.0 td6, 1x 4.2 Supercharged), I missed the Landrover "vibe" and bought a non-running 2.7 tdv6, 2009 with 200k km's, very tidy and with complete maintenance history, first owner....
Vague diagnosis from the Landrover dealer: rough running... Owners bought a new one..

After some analysis & removing things, I'm coming to the following:

- upgraded oil pump by last cam belt service
- cam belt in perfect condition, only 30000kms old
- running, but very rough, not al 6 cylinders and engine stalling very often (vehicle has DPF so no smoke visible...)
- No oil in turbo tubes
- I hear turbo spool up, so turbo not blocked
- removed injectors, will let them be tested
- 0.0 compression on cylinder 1, rest is ok: 17-18bar
- When pressurizing cylinder 1, I hear the air flowing out of the inlet main valve...

Can it be that an inlet valve is stuck open, but the pistons are not touching it? Can a broken valve spring be the cause?
Any thoughts?

thanks

Humm. Could be. I guess you need to remove 1 cam and see

Thanks for your prompt reply,

If the valve is opened a bit, for whatever reason, is it not directly touching the piston when cranking /running?

I don't know, for the 2.7 engine, how close the piston is to the valves, at TDC.

If the cambelt goes, the values do get bent.
So yes they are close.

But if the spring were to be broke, I guess the piston could push the valve back closed. (likely with some damage)

Removed valve cover, turns out to be a broken valve spring in the inlet side.

I see a smooth, even marking on the piston: probably the piston pushing the valve back in.

Are the valves under 90 angle against the contacting surface of the piston? (it looks like it...)

Now will need to remove cams and try to replace spring without lifting the head... Any tips & tricks?

interesting

how do you see the piston ?

SO I guess you should rotate the engine, so that the piston is pushing on the valve to hold it in place.
I think this is near TDC

To remove the inlet cam, I think you need to remove the cambelt, which means to need to remove the fan (fan's are difficult to remove on these, get some tools)

You can get cheap timing alignment tools for these off ebay.
Starter requires removal to use.

I can't help think for the sake of removing the EGR/exhaust manifold and head it maybe best to fit a new valve?
But I guess you can test the seal after a new spring is fitted ? or maybe test the seal while the piston holds the valve up?

Fit a new valve or you may be revisiting it soon. If the piston is not parallel to the valve face, chances are the valve spindle may be bent. It may be just slightly bent but will quickly wear the valve guide or a hairline crack in valve seat. Not worth doing the job twice. You may not be so lucky the second time.

Thanks for your replies guys.

I bought a small 5.5mm camera to fit in the injector hole. This way i'm able to look in the cylinder.

FYI: i bought a compression tool kit with a dummy injector to test compression without the need to remove the glowplugs...

I think i will go for the head removal.
As my body is still on, will i be able to losen the exhaust manifold easy?
Are there other things that i need to remove? This side (UK driver side) is the easy one, right? There is no belt for the HP fuel pump on this side. However, i see another "Bosch" part attached to the rear of the head. Any idea what this can be?

To remove the exhaust you go in thru the wheel arch.
Remove the many bits of Heatshield in the arch.
Take your time to mark how the heat shields fit together. It will save much time later.

Remove EGR and EGR shield. A 1/4 drive 8mm socket and long extension 40cm? from memeory is your friend here.
UNBOLT exhaust.

The thing on the back is the brake vacuum pump.
Not a big deal except the seal is expensive

Head gasket thickness are selected in manufacture.
The notches at the front indicate thickness.

On the side of the block at front is a coolant drain plug. I recommend you unscrew before head removal otherwise you will get coolant in the oil

If your glowplugs don’t work on that side would be a good time to replace when head off

Last edited by Andy K on Sat Jan 26 2019 9:36pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks, clear instructions

Do you know if the brake vacuum pump stays on the head or needs to be removed before head is taken off?

Can say on.

There are 2 or 3 bolts that hold the transmission breather pipes to the head. These need removing. They are next to the vacuum pump. Bit of a pain.

The head has 2 dowels.
So the head needs lifting up and then into the center of Vee

The chain has 2 ? Dark red links to help with alignment on refitting.
The factory don’t always bother to make use of them.

Photo says enough..

Any idea about the torque settings for the camshaft caps? Don’t see to find them..