I will be servicing the auto box and my supplier has asked, do I want the metal sump conversion?

Do I?

Can someone shed some light on this for me please?

Metal sumps leak for fun. They are usually fitted by someone incapable of fitting the OEM plastic sump

Is it worth changing the sump? A full flush gets the dirty oil out and replaces it all with nice fresh stuff. Does changing the filter make much difference? Does changing the filter and half the oil do a better job than just changing all of the oil? 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Are you saying that it probably best to take it to a specialist to flush and fill?

That has been the perceived wisdom around here and the Discovery sister site for some time. Some still like the idea of changing the filter. I've had both options done over the years and these days I just get the oil flushed every 3 years. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Just noticed that a garage that I have used for MOT’s a few miles from me specialises in flushing and renewing fluid in Auto boxes. I have just spoken to them and they are emailing me an estimate today. They said all the fluid is 100% changed and it will have a new filter fitted. I am expecting a reasonably large figure!

Happy to change the oil myself but realise it will only be approximately 50% of the oil which isn’t desirable. This is a car that I will keep for a few years as it is immaculate and otherwise apart from the dreaded bit of a whine from below, ( Probably the front differential but possibly a wheel bearing which is under investigation right now).

Just to recap, have the new metal sumps a reputation of leaking? Or is this user error when applying sealant and bolting up?

metal sumps do tend to leak.

To refit a plastic sump, you have to jack the engine up slightly, off its engine mount.

The filter is paper. I inspected mine after over 100K miles, and there was very little debri on the filter and it had plently of life left.

If the sump is removed, then change the connector sleeve at the same time. These are very prone to leaking. If its not leaking now, it will be with fresh fluid!

This item:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303188203809?_s...R4SJxoyaZQ

phazed wrote:

Just to recap, have the new metal sumps a reputation of leaking? Or is this user error when applying sealant and bolting up?

design

My RRS had a recon box before I bought it, rebuilt and fitted by a gearbox specialist. It leaks

It'll be getting a plastic sump back in when it's next on the ramp

Just had a quote of £600 to fit a new metal sump, filter and flush and change the oil on the box from a known reputable garage.

Just to recap on the recap. If I decide to do this myself, I will be changing approximately 50% of the oil. I will have to loosen the engine mounts and Jack up the engine to remove the existing plastic gearbox sump. I can change the plastic thingymejig and filter on the existing plastic sump and replace. Top up with oil, run for a couple of weeks, drain and refill and I will have approximately 75% of the oil changed. Total cost I assume would be in the region of about £100 at trade prices..

Am I missing something?

There are ways to change almost all of the oil.

1) You run the engine for less than 30 seconds, and pump the oil out of the :
a. gearbox cooler line at the front
or
b. Out the sump drain plug.

2) Once that is done, leave the cooler pipe open (if you removed) and leave the car over night, and drain down any more oil in the morning, out of the sump plug

You can get most of the oil out this way, or enough anyway.

Then you just need to get the new oil back in. Either
a) Pump the oil in under air pressure though the (correct) cooler line
b) Open the fill plug and squirt in, start engine briefly to dissipate oil, insert more oil, start engine and leave running, insert more oil until its at the level plug, FIT LEVEL PLUG, then TURN ENGINE OFF.


Details here of the cooler line method

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/filos-autob...light=filo


First step with this is to ensure you can undo the level/fill plug

phazed wrote:

Just had a quote of £600 to fit a new metal sump, filter and flush and change the oil on the box from a known reputable garage.

Just to recap on the recap. If I decide to do this myself, I will be changing approximately 50% of the oil. I will have to loosen the engine mounts and Jack up the engine to remove the existing plastic gearbox sump. I can change the plastic thingymejig and filter on the existing plastic sump and replace. Top up with oil, run for a couple of weeks, drain and refill and I will have approximately 75% of the oil changed. Total cost I assume would be in the region of about £100 at trade prices..

Am I missing something?

Just get it flushed by a decent LR indie. Save yourself the time to do something fun (and less oily!)  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Any recommendations for the Surrey area?

I don’t mind doing the work myself. Have done my Mercedes ML and P 38 in the past but I am conscious of not being able to do all the oil at one time. If I remember right, the Mercedes had a drain plug in the torque converter that you could access from the bell housing. What a sensible idea!

Yeah I think the TC manufacture stopped putting the drain plug in.
My Jag has an access hole for it, but no drain plug. (its a merc gearbox)