Where exactly are you in Scotland ? Must be someone who knows someone.

Glasgow I've got the number of someone in Ayrshire so will ask.

What about RR Glasgow ? Just googled them Indy and Rangey specialists, so know their onions and you’re not paying dealer prices.

Thanks I've not heard of them but will ask on Monday.

RAC wouldn't do something like that roadside. They'd only recover you to a garage or home, but I do like your thinking

3.6 is probably one of the worst alternators JLR decided upon, but still easier than an L322 SDV8

I know they (AA in my case) won't fit it at the roadside but they'll book it in for a mech to come out and do it and wondered if they did it.

Yes it's a proper pita of job, I know what do but can't get to the stuff I need to get to to get it on.

Certainly easier to get it out than put it back in,, trying to put the bottom bolts in last is next to impossible,, I resorted to putting the two bottom bolts in place on the alternator then put the alternator back in place,,,, and don't let the bolts slip out in the process. Hang it off the top bolt then a short 13mm half a turn at a time to do the bottom ones. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

I can't get even get the bloody thing out never mind the new one in!

It is a bit a tight fit,, you need to rotate it and it will come out beside the ACE pipes 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

It’s a pita. Mine caught fire and I was thinking about doing it in the hotel car park. Called my mechanic and he told me I probably didn’t want to try that.

Off the top of my head, you need to:
- drivers wheel off, arch liner out
- boost pipes off the top
- fan shroud top section off (I modified mine so I didn’t have to drain the rad to get this off)
- fan off (be careful not to put the viscous fan spanner through the rad hose, bottom hoses are NLA. Recommend wrapping the fan spanners in duct tape to protect the hoses)
- bottom drivers side boost hose off
- pull the hard pipe to the turbo down so you can access the alternator bolts
- undo the 13mm bolts holding the alternator on.
- lift the alternator out the top.
- file a chamfer on the inner faces of the horizontal mounting bolt holes on the new alternator so it slides on easier
- drop the new alternator in the top, wrestle it onto the engine. Bolt it back up.
- etc.

Doing it again, I’d buy a 13mm 1/4” UJ socket for the two bolts that go in from the bottom, they’re a massive pita to access.

gogsy1956 wrote:

It is a bit a tight fit,, you need to rotate it and it will come out beside the ACE pipes

d-9 wrote:

It’s a pita. Mine caught fire and I was thinking about doing it in the hotel car park. Called my mechanic and he told me I probably didn’t want to try that.

Off the top of my head, you need to:
- drivers wheel off, arch liner out
- boost pipes off the top
- fan shroud top section off (I modified mine so I didn’t have to drain the rad to get this off)
- fan off (be careful not to put the viscous fan spanner through the rad hose, bottom hoses are NLA. Recommend wrapping the fan spanners in duct tape to protect the hoses)
- bottom drivers side boost hose off
- pull the hard pipe to the turbo down so you can access the alternator bolts
- undo the 13mm bolts holding the alternator on.
- lift the alternator out the top.
- file a chamfer on the inner faces of the horizontal mounting bolt holes on the new alternator so it slides on easier
- drop the new alternator in the top, wrestle it onto the engine. Bolt it back up.
- etc.

Doing it again, I’d buy a 13mm 1/4” UJ socket for the two bolts that go in from the bottom, they’re a massive pita to access.

No Longer Available

Same as dipstick and tubes + gearbox pipes. Guess what mine needs

On a 15 year old car in my case and things like you can't get, that's a bit . So it needs to be evilbay or somebody breaking.

You know, the more I hear about stupid crap like like this and the reliability in general the more I don't think I'd have another.

Axl wrote:

As I was saying above, it's mainly (well so far) the pipe connected to the metal pipe in wary of loosening incase of a coolant pipes and get it in my eyes again (bloody stung and got a fright incase it did something to my sight).