I am having a real problem getting all the bolts out from the sump guard to change the oil on my 58 RRS. It supposedly had an oil change at a LR dealer 10 months ago but the bolts are rusted absolute solid. After a new set of grip tite sockets i have removed all but three which I think I will have to go down the weld a nut over the top route to remove, the heads are knackered. My worry is that I might shear captive nuts off behind the sump guard. Does anybody have any pictures or info of what the plate bolts to.

I feel your pain; having recently struggled with one of the bolts on my undertray.

Possibly the previous oil change was done using an extractor to suck the old oil out via the dip stick tube. Most dealers do it this way?

Unless already done you should try to soak the captive nuts with penetrating oil - access above the undertray is possible but awkward. Maybe try some Irwin bolt grips as they work differently to grip tites.

Again - you may have already noticed that the front two bolts have ordinary locking nuts not captive types.

For the other captive nuts - they seem to be tack welded to the chassis quite solidly. I would think the risk of shearing the bolts is greater than that of detaching the nuts.

Good luck - with a bit of penetrating oil and heat cycling from the weld they should come off cleanly. Luckily new bolts are available from Land Rover but they are a bit pricy at £3.62 each ex VAT.  2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Hi, I had same problem last week! I ended up using a angle grinder with thin metal cutting disc and cut slot into bolt head. I cut full depth which allowed me to knock the bolt round. I could also reuse the butchered bolts to temporarily hold the tray until I purchase replacements. I don't think you will damage the welded captive nuts as I was using a impact wrench, hammering and grinding and they didn't budge!

Gary.

Thanks for the replies guys. Seems this is yet another design feature from Land Rover. I managed to get the last three bolts out with an air chisel and using a hammer and chisel. Replacement Land Rover bolts all round would have been over £30 but I got a full set of flanged bolts and bought nuts, springs and washers for all for only £3. I didn't need nuts on all but with not knowing what I would end up with and for the cost I didn't want to half do the job. Copious amounts of copper grease and it is all back together after changing the oil.

So what set out to be an 20 min job took me three weeks !!! Just love these machines !!!

It makes one wonder how careful the servicing has been if the bolts were so badly seized / corroded. Taking the sump plates off would be part of an oil change... 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Same happened to me today I had to call it a day and leave the car on the ramps. Left the bolts with penetrating fluid on to soak through the night

If it's supposed to have had oil change 10 months ago carnt see how they would have rusted fast!
Makes you wonder what they do at service time
No wonder so many of us do our own work least you know it's done!
A thin coat of copper grease in them when you replace the bolts will help to free them on next service 😊

Dealers don't always drain the oil these day's via the sump plug, they use a oil extraction pump to remove the oil from the engine using the built in tube, although I don't know if a 58 plate vehicle has this facility, which could explain why the guard is not always removed.

Cheers
Col