Hi Lads
Well it's back again when trying to pull a bit harder with the Sport 2.7 Tdv6 the Engine System fault is coming up and then cuts the power, If I stop and put into neutral it revs okay ,switch off and re-start and the fault clears and all okay until next time.

I had the codes read this morning and wondered if anyone had any ideas from these what the cause could be.

1. P0405 Egr Sensor A Malfunction.
2. P140A Egr sensor C malfunction.
3. P0234 Engine Overboost condition Malfunction.
4. P132B Turbocharger Boost Pressure control A Malfunction.

No's 1 and 2 wouldn't clear but putting this down to the EGR valves being blanked. No's 3 and 4 cleared. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks Jock.

I would say your EGR's are Fxxked and you can blank them for £15.

Looks like the turbo VVT needs oiling and moving. (need to go in thru the wheel arch to do this)
There are some guides on here

Hi Andy

Sorry I have the EGR'S already blanked off. I had already had a go at the Turbo actuator and I reckoned it was pretty free.

Maybe worth trying again, and had thought about getting the all the Turbo hoses renewed also.

Thanks for the suggestions Jock.

When I first got mine almost 2 years ago now. I had engine system fault come up constantly, it was usually at just over 70mph, and this was happening for several months, very annoying! Then I started using vpower diesel and had a few months of very low fuel economy with spirited driving and im guessing i must have got lucky and freed everything off. The car used to belong to my mum for the previous 3 years to me owning it, and it was used as a get around car for town and to shop in so it never really saw over 50 mph. Fingers crossed, touch wood, grasping a four leaf clover, now it's doing daily 50mile commutes up and down duel carriage way, at speed it's never thrown up the message again. And it's performing much better at higher speeds now.
I still have my egr's, and I'm at 79k now.

Do you not need to reprogram the ECU after blanking the EGR valves, or is that only the tdv8 ?

Socast
It's Euro 4 engines that require a software patch. I had BAS / Pete Bell patch on mine, Disco Mikey uses Alive (use to be TD5 Alive when I had my Disco 2), both come highly recommended

The only other company I would think about would be JE Engineering in Coventry.
Should add Euro 4 is 2008MY on In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

Hi Lads
Thanks for the helpful replies. It had the same fault a few times before I blanked the EGR's and I don't think going with other information on the forum that I need re-program the ECU although I may be wrong.

Dan I will try the Vpower diesel as to be honest my Sport is only doing a fraction of the miles it first done when I bought it as (don't Laugh) I have my old Frontera offroader which I use daily and the Sport is only used the odd weekend for any longer runs.

Also thinking about getting in touch with Mikey and getting my Turbo hoses replaced and get him to give me a second opinion on my Turbo actuator.

Any other suggestions will be gratefully received ,and thanks again to everyone for there suggestions so far.

Cheers Jock

Maybe the experts can help here, but what I don't understand is that if the motor has failed in the EGR, and the ecu can see this with its feedback, why blanking the EGR's will actually make the fault go away.


Sure I can understand that if you have working EGR's and you blank them it stops soot and hot gasses causing them to fail. But one failed.... how does blanking help?

Hi Lads

Had another look around Turbo hoses today and managed to tighten quite a bit on the two onto the Intercooler ,the drivers side one had some oily gunge leaking around it but again from what I can see the hoses don't look cracked or burst. Also checked again Map and Maf sensors were clean.

Took out for a test drive and the fault did come up again but not now under load ,but when easing back on the throttle for say a corner.

Thinking of changing all Turbo hoses as a matter of course to Britpart Silicone to rule these out completely and have another go at Turbo actuator, Failing that need to find some way to tell if it's definitely the Turbo. Worst case scenario how much would I be looking at to change a Turbo or can the actuator be changed seperately?

Again any suggestions would be much appreciated. Jock.

what codes are you getting now?

It's fairly normal for the hoses to be oilly, so don't be too worried.

Once the time has been taken to remove the turbo from the car, you may as well put a new/recon turbo on.
Only sensible approach.

It's also bloody difficult to split the turbo

Hi Andy

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. Haven't managed to have the codes read again since the last time. If it comes to it not really sure if I would attempt the Turbo myself.

Just trying to go through everything else I can or find some way to 100% confirm that it is the Turbo.

Cheers Jock

Most likely the actuator is not free enough. I have had to work them for (literally) hours on the worst ones...

Don't buy Britpart hoses either

Thanks Mikey

Will try and give the actuator another go on my next days off. What hoses would you recommend and would you go Silicone. failing that is there any other way to tell exactly if it is the Turbo.

And if the worst comes to the worst what would I be looking at to replace a Turbo.

Cheers Jock

Is the car quick to drive.

What happens when the error message comes on. Still quick?

Hi Andy

Pushed the car on today after tightening the hoses and still feel it is performing well. When the fault comes up the car appears to keep the power for a very short time and then when you slow down it appears to go into the limp mode with very little power and won't rev.

If I stop and put into neutral it will rev up as normal ,so that baffles me a bit too.

Cheers Jock