hi, I had a try at front ARB rubbers today, I thought it would be remove replace bish/bash/bosh/ & job done, (NO CHANCE)
I bought replacements in picture 2 but I have the brackets in picture 1, are the ones in pic 2 replacements for swan neck brackets in pic 1, also after taking under tray of I could get to all 3 bolts on drivers side but looking at passengers side there looks so little space between top bolt and shaft direct above. I found the how two (disco forum) but they are removing ones from picture 2 and looks different roll bar to mine. I've got same setup as picture 1.

Picture 1 is the DR/ARC ARB's

Picture 2 is the standard ARB setup to early + low spec RRS, and all D3/4

1 is dynamic anti roll bar. 2 is the passive bar as fitted to Disco 3. Disco instructions won't help really. I think the front dynamic bar needs the body lifting a touch or something else removing first.

DM beat me to it! 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Ahh that will explain why there different then lol, holly c**p part body lift just to fit ARB rubbers, LR really don't like making it easy for the home DIY"er..

T and S Norman might be able to help....? Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

Thanks dr rob, will contact them if can't get round lifting front, has anyone managed to fit front ARB rubbers without lifting body up, I don't mind purchasing a (special spanner) if needed, I'm not even 100% sure that is the low speed rough road tapping/rattling I can hear, I get a bit of movement with pry bar, pretty sure it's not control/wishbone arms because my last sport had Definitive clunk when applied brakes at low speed and dealer had them changed before I completed sale.

Hi Gilly,

As I understand it there is no need to lift the body to do the front ARB bushes but it is necessary for the rears although not a complete body off - just a slight lift.

Have you seen this thread?: http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic44478....cial+tools

Might be useful. Good luck!

I'm contemplating the same job. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Thanks paddi that's great help, will give it another go week end.

Gilly I did mine last weekend and it's possible without the special tools but not the most enjoyable job I have done, a Flexi head ratchet spanner helps for sure but they are so tight so to get them started or nipped up tight I bent a ring spanner to get it up and over, I found the Flexi head ratchet spanner had a fair bit of play in the pivot when you put heaps of pressure on it and as it is so tight in there I found it easy to bend a spanner and leaver of the chassi etc. with a screwdriver handle and when there was nothing to lever off I put a chain on the ring spanner and had another person pulling the chain through the wheel arch with a screwdriver through the chain and levering off the chassi. I know it is not the most conventional way but it worked really well.

There's no need to lift the body when replacing either set of bushes. Front require that the drive shaft be unbolted and lifted up, rear take 15 mins a side to do, it takes longer to jack up the car and remove the wheel than it does to change each bush.

Thanks all for reply,s, I'm going into battle today & hopefully I come out victorious, 🙏