After noticiing a small oil spot on the garage floor (disguised in a puddle of melted snow), I decided to investigate.

After removing the sump guard I noticed a leak from a component sitting above and slightly behind the oil sump - it looks like the source of my leak. Problem is I'm not sure what it is? what it is leaking? if I can top up in the meantime? and how big a job it is to fix?

Looks certain a trip to LR will be needed, but would like you thoughts on what and how big an issue

Photo is taken from directly underneath oils sump.

Cheers

Click image to enlarge

A trip to the dealer methinks T. You are aware that RRS and D3 engines are very high carbon content and absorb oil. You have to check oil in a new RRS engine ruthlessly until consumption tails off, hence the warning in the fuel filler cap to check every 600kms 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
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2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

That area is the joint between engine and transmission.I may be mistaken but, that looks suspiciously like the rear crankshaft oil seal is leaking, or possibly something around the torque convertor leaking, if so, for either it is quite a job I'm afraid, transmission removal, poss drive plate off etc. Can you tell if it's engine oil, or transmission oil? Unless of course,the oil is coming from somewhere else above, not visible in the pic. RRS TDV8 Buck Blue (no, not now in my dreams). ..........D3 TDclankety clankV6 ............BMW 318i

Oil is definately coming from that point, the areas all around are just dust dry. The sump has taken a bit of a hit from the leak, but it is only coming from that one point.

I can't tell if it is engine or transmission oil, it's too coagulated with salt and dirt.

I have an aftermarket non main dealer warranty which I got with the car, do you think this would be covered? Or is it classed as fair wear and tear and a consumable?

Not sure how they would view this TBH t34, if it's the rear crank oil seal,in my experience these don't usually leak until high mileages have been covered, or oil level has been allowed to get low and wear to the seal has occurred prematurely, or indeed overfilling of oil which overpressurizes causing leakage. RRS TDV8 Buck Blue (no, not now in my dreams). ..........D3 TDclankety clankV6 ............BMW 318i

Mileage is low, well for a RRS 40k miles. Since the last service 12 months ago it has only done 4k miles, so the 48 month service due now is only as a result of 12 months passing.

The car has been main dealer serviced, although not a dedicated LR dealership but an 'authorised' one (not sure if that exists in UK? or if it's a odd thing with Sweden being a tiny market for LR.

I have just sent the dealer an email and photo to ask, I'll keep my fingers crossed.

It looks like it's taken a while for the leak to migrate doen the sump, onto the sump guard and down to the lowest point at the front of the car - however, it must have been more than an odd drip to have done this, but funny how now it is so coagulated? Hopefully this suggests an overfil (unless its running dry ).

Will see if it's an FOC or an expensive LR trip

If it has just been overfilled, now it has expelled the excess is everything likely to be ok? or does it destroy the seals with the pressure? Wondering if I should Gunk it away and see if it re-appears??!? (assuming I have to pay for the work)

I'd see what they say first before cleaning away the evidence,that is not a high mileage at all . If it is this seal leaking it is unlikely to go away though. But if you end up getting nowhere with the warranty I'd then clean it down and see how long it takes to reappear,and go from there. Check the oil level regularly, clean it, and if it leaks within hours / days/weeks, you will need to fix it, if it takes 6 months to show leakage then you could probably get away with leaving it til it gets worse I would of thought. RRS TDV8 Buck Blue (no, not now in my dreams). ..........D3 TDclankety clankV6 ............BMW 318i

Cheers for your thoughts.

When you say check the level, how do I do this? Sorry, might be being dumb, but never come across this before on the weekly checklist!

You have checked the engine oil level on the dipstick haven't you? please tell me you have, haven't you? If it were to be a transmission oil leak then checking that level is definately not a weekly check item, and the dealer would not expect you to have checked that regularly TBH. Good Luck with it!  RRS TDV8 Buck Blue (no, not now in my dreams). ..........D3 TDclankety clankV6 ............BMW 318i

Last edited by Texstar on Mon Feb 22 2010 11:32pm. Edited 1 time in total

Yes on the dipstick - but worth mentioning

Will see what they have to say and then take it from there - cheers again

ouch, ouch, ouch

Took car in to main stealer who said the leak I have just needs a new seal - however the gearbox needs taking out to do it and the cost would be around 20000 SEK (that's just under 2000 pounds) - NO WAY!!

I have said for them to hold on - anyone got an idea of how big a job this is and the likely UK non main dealer cost? At that rate it will be cheaper to drive to UK and get it done - any thoughts.

Maybe I'm just being tight, is this normal? (the cost not me being tight)

Just a thought but I wonder if the leak might be a breather problem rather than a seal problem?

Many years ago I had a crankshaft rear seal oil leak on my Rover 3500 but it turned out (after I had removed the auto gearbox and replaced the seal without curing the leak) to be a partially blocked crankcase breather system which, at higher speeds, was allowing the crankcase to become pressurised and forcing oil out by the path of least resistance - the rear crankshaft seal.

I don't know about the TdV6 but on the Tdv8 the breather system oil separator is mounted behind the oil filter up on top of the engine in the middle of the V and there is a drain back to the crankcase at the back of the engine. I have heard of one TdV8 where the oil separator sprang a large leak where oil was dripping from below the engine but they could see oil on top of the engine behind the filter close to the separator. Might be worth a look.

Bob if that's the case, I'll owe you a pint - really need to know where to look.

Did you see my photo? It does look localised at the bottom of the component rather than if it has run doen the outside. It doesn't feel like that much and it's taken a while to migrate down and onto the sump guard and finally spotting on the floor. I would leave it, but not sure how to top up?

Thoughts on location of TDV6 breather (more than you first said) anyone, and on the topping up.

Most Land Rover engine/gearbox breathers are led up to the bulkhead or the top of the engine so they are above the wading depth. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

tornado34 wrote:

ouch, ouch, ouch

Took car in to main stealer who said the leak I have just needs a new seal - however the gearbox needs taking out to do it and the cost would be around 20000 SEK (that's just under 2000 pounds) - NO WAY!!

I have said for them to hold on - anyone got an idea of how big a job this is and the likely UK non main dealer cost? At that rate it will be cheaper to drive to UK and get it done - any thoughts.

Maybe I'm just being tight, is this normal? (the cost not me being tight)