Hi,
Am trying to rebuild the compressor to fix a suspension fault - high pressure line at the front comes off easily; large line at the (top) back (think this is the non-pressurised exhaust line) came off ok, but for the life of me i can't get the smaller one at the rear (think it's a non-pressurised air intake line) off - have tried everything for a couple of hours so stopping before more drastic measures.

Any tips or tricks to get that line out?

I had a similar problem.

It was just patience. Getting mud dirt out. Wd40. Exercise. Eventually came out

Thanks - exactly what i'm doing - toothbrushes around the collet; WD40 in there; try again.....sore arms/fingers...

I also had the exact same issue,, rather than spend hours struggling I cut the pipe on the vertical section and used a straight pushfit connector,, 8mm I believe. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Thanks - think i may have to go for that option too.

Has anyone opened the intake silencer? i used a 19mm spanner on it and it seemed to turn, so wondering if better to take it off, work on the compressor and then just screw it back on once back in the car.

BTW: was going through the manual and think you're correct re 8mm intake:

The air harness comprises ten separate nylon pipes which are connected between the system components with Voss connectors. The
pipes have the following diameters:
High pressure pipes 6 mm
Compressor inlet pipe 8 mm
Inlet filter to silencer 8 mm
Compressor exhaust pipe 10 mm
Silencer exhaust pipe 19 mm
If a pipe becomes damaged, an in-line connector is available for repair purposes. The pipes are secured to the body and the chassis with a number of plastic clips.

Bit confused as to what your referring to as the intake silencer??,,, a silencer would only be on the exhaust. Do you have a pic of the bit you are referring to. Remove the whole compressor and work on it on a bench,,, inlet and exhaust pipes off and a few bolts,,,, makes for an easy life. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

You could think of it as an air filter

@gogsy1956 see below pic (4) for the bit i'm referring to:



Note, finally got the hose out but o-ring disintegrated - think that is what was binding it in. BTW: apart from a ton of WD40, trick i used was to carefully use long-nosed pliers on the hose, pressed against a smaller open ended (9mm) spanner pressed against collet, and then lever the two against each other.

Assume there's no way of repairing o-ring so have bought a cheap (£75!) replacement compressor while i work out how to rebuild the original.

Thanks all for your help - am going to tweak the mounting to not use spire nuts but use a captive stud instead - will post pics when done.

Just to update on the tweaks i made to the bracket....in the end, didn't bother putting it on studs as the new spire nuts work well and having slotted the top bolt, can get the whole thing in and out in a few minutes now.
Pic of how i slotted the top bolt location is below - allows you to leave the top bolt in mostly done up and pivot the bracket away from it and off.



One final point because it caught me out, although the bolts holding the bracket on require a 10mm socket/spanner (usually implying an M6 bolt), these are M8 bolts with reduced heads so suggest you buy a set of spare spire/chimney nuts (you need 3 min) if you intending on taking the bracket off in case you break them. I also got some new stainless bolts (ideally flange headed set screws 25-30mm long).