Hi everyone, I picked up a 2007 TDV8 yesterday which was a slight impulse purchase as I needed a car quickly as it’s looking like my previous one might need a new engine which isn’t worth doing!

I’ve had L322s before and did own a 2.7 Sport ages ago so am not stranger to Land Rovers and their temperamental nature and checked everything I knew was a potential issue, with the exception of new discs and pads and front tyres needed soon all seemed ok and car had a receipt for replacement turbos approx 30k miles ago in 2019, all was fine boost wise etc on the test drive.

On the way home with it I got engine system fault come up, it kept popping up the message then it would disappear and re appear on acceleration, and was down on power, if you stopped and turned it off it would be ok for a bit then do it again, although it didn’t do it at all on the last time.
If anyone could shed any light on it I’d be really grateful, it had been sitting a few weeks prior to last night, a quick Google and how I found this forum says could be sticky turbo actuator?, hoping a can of WD40 and the delight of crawling round under it trying to find them for a bit might do the job!.

Might be worth checking for a split intercooler hose, not uncommon I believe.

Cheers
Col

Thought the best thing to do would be to get it plugged in at a Land Rover place and got these fault codes:

P023D-22 manifold absolute pressure-turbocharger/supercharger boost sensor A correlation

P132B-22 turbo/supercharger boost control a performance

He did check the actuators on the diagnostic software and they’re working correctly.

I’m going home now to check all my boost pipes in case there is a split but otherwise it’s looking like a possible vacuum pipe or worse, an intake manifold.

What’s really weird is when it goes into limp mode the exhaust note changes slightly, it seems to get bassist and more noticeably V8 sounding if that makes sense.

Yes, the sound change happens when the vanes on one of (or rarely: both) the turbochargers are wide open. This happens when the actuator action is outside the design envelope and the ECU decides to go limp mode - including cutting the boost to 0 - to prevent damage. Been there, done that.

Even if the actuators work when outside force is applied to them, it is not said they are able to do so on a running engine. The vanes rotated inside the turbo by the actuator need to move within time limits the ECU has. If you press hard on the accelerator, the system has a preset time to start building and reaching full boost and if this does not happen → Restricted Performance.

The actuator will then reset on the next power cycle.

The vanes (located in the exhaust half of the turbo) are usually clogged with soot and while the actuators operate when pushed by a stick, they may have a hard time to close the sticky vanes in order to increase the boost pressure.

You may try some of the "turbo cleaner" fuel additives. They're usually half-placebos, but I did it while simultaneously changing the way I drive to some more spirited traveling and it changed from once ina month to once in three months.

I am still trying to find some time to develop a device to chemically treat and clean the inside of the turbo from soot without taking the body off  Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Hi same thing happend me to, see my earlier post this week.

Could be the MAF sensors between the hose and airbox - Ive ordered some maf sensor cleaner to give that a go as I got the P006A error on my code reader.

Basically the sensors are sensing a difference in air volume in the banks.

TheWojtek wrote:

Yes, the sound change happens when the vanes on one of (or rarely: both) the turbochargers are wide open. This happens when the actuator action is outside the design envelope and the ECU decides to go limp mode - including cutting the boost to 0 - to prevent damage. Been there, done that.

Even if the actuators work when outside force is applied to them, it is not said they are able to do so on a running engine. The vanes rotated inside the turbo by the actuator need to move within time limits the ECU has. If you press hard on the accelerator, the system has a preset time to start building and reaching full boost and if this does not happen → Restricted Performance.

The actuator will then reset on the next power cycle.

The vanes (located in the exhaust half of the turbo) are usually clogged with soot and while the actuators operate when pushed by a stick, they may have a hard time to close the sticky vanes in order to increase the boost pressure.

You may try some of the "turbo cleaner" fuel additives. They're usually half-placebos, but I did it while simultaneously changing the way I drive to some more spirited traveling and it changed from once ina month to once in three months.

I am still trying to find some time to develop a device to chemically treat and clean the inside of the turbo from soot without taking the body off

That’s really informative, thanks a lot

I’ve checked the boost pipes and no splits so can rule that out, would the noise change indicate that it is more likely sticky vanes/actuators than the inlet for example?.
Hope it’s not turbo vanes as it had 2 new turbos 3 years and 30k miles ago looking at the receipts.
Part of the reason this one appealed l, I will try some turbo cleaner and a heavier foot!.
The guy who plugged it in did rev it with the diagnostic software running and said the actuators were working but it was already in limp mode when plugged in so maybe they weren’t working as well as thought.
Do you think it’s worth trying to free them up more manually still?.

I am quite sure moving them by hand will not do any harm.

The noise change definitely comes from the exhaust flowing more freely due to the vanes wide open. The turbo does not produce any (usable) boost in this configuration so this is a logical way to prevent damage to the engine.

Regarding the soot deposit - it very much depends on the way the car is driven. Low RPMs, infrequent trips, short distances, this is what makes things worse. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Cracked manifold ?

Thanks again, I’m going to try and free up the actuators tomorrow and see if that helps, I’ve ordered some turbo cleaner, both the additive to the diesel tank and the one you spray down the intake and got it booked in somewhere in a couple of weeks, if it started to do it once every 3 months I’d just live with it but pretty much every trip I can’t!, if it is an inlet then it will have to be done, very much doubt and hope it’s not a turbo seeing as they’ve already been done!.

Lrstaylor wrote:

Cracked manifold ?

TGJ wrote:

Thought the best thing to do would be to get it plugged in at a Land Rover place

Right I’m about to start trying to free up the actuators as first port of call, do the front wheels need to be off to access them from underneath?.

It's easier. See:

but if you can just put the car on some jackstands, it will do. Be careful, it's heavy. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Well that’s a bust unfortunately, my 4x4 trolley jack that I’ve only ever used once isn’t working going to check the MAP sensors just in case.

Someone else had a look earlier and he’s fairly convinced it’s sticking actuators causing it.
I’ve got some of the Wynns turbo cleaner spray I’m going to use too, where is the best place to spray in on this car, undo the air intake pipes and spray there?.

I can also use someone’s pit at the weekend to lubricate and free up the actuators as opposed to jacking it up I can stand directly underneath it safely.
Do the wheels definitely need to come off to be able to access the actuators?, it’s also got the undertrays fitted which I’m guessing need to be removed too.