Andy K wrote:

I believe it’s called a flat beam. (No kick up on one side )
You could also call it compromised or poor

The flat beams are a 2012/2013 item, they’re distinguished by the black inner trim as opposed to the 2010/2011 grey inner trim.

The lever should be up for the native pattern and down for driving on the other side of the road.

 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

My projectors don't seem to match any of the descriptions, in the manual or what you are each saying.
The beams do have the a slight "kick up" to the nearside (left) though possibly not as much as usual, and inside the projector I can see the "shield".
The shaft this is mounted on protrudes out at both ends. One end has a small spring, and the other seems to have a brass gear underneath it and engaging with it.
There is no lever to move it with, and I am therefore assuming there is a motor driving the brass gear, although I can't quite see as it is out of sight.
I have tried moving the shield shaft, and can do but it returns to the original position due to the spring. I did consider trying to jam in the other position, but it looks delicate .
I'm beginning to think the shield defaults to the flattish beam shape, and is supposed to move to the ordered position on startup to provide the british shape. And isn't doing so. Either the ecu for this is faulty or someone has set it to "continental".
Still the same question then. Where is the control for this? Secret menu like a L322? This has to be easily available to the driver when he/she drives off the ferry into France! I'm guessing this was an "upgrade" not included in my owners manual.
The vehicle was registered in April 2012.
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Managed to get some awkward pics.


Thin brass shield shaft sitting in fixed white support bracket, black plastic quadrant with teeth on underside, and brass gear partially visible behind this.
Assume this is where the earlier lever would have been?



Thin brass shaft sitting in white support bracket, small black lever and tiny return spring.
 Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

I would assume the spring thing is to select main beam.
So don’t try and jam that open!!!!

Eh, no.
The dip projector only does dip, but remains on along with the main H7 reflector lamp when main beam selected.
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Eh, no.
The dip projector only does dip, but remains on along with the main H7 reflector lamp when main beam selected.
Alan

Oops, don't know why that posted twice! Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

There is a flap. Normally the top of the beam is blocked off.
When you select main beam the flap lifts and the xenon beam is let loose on the road.

Where fitted the h7 halogen comes on too for long range illumination

Here's more of a closeup of that shield mechanism.

The brass driving gear can be seen at the top of the pic, looking like it's mounted on the end of a small motor.


I managed to rotate the black plastic quadrant as far as it would go (about 90deg), but it didn't appear to latch.
A bit strange, as the motor would need to be continually powered to keep it there!
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Andy K wrote:

I would assume the spring thing is to select main beam.
So don’t try and jam that open!!!!

I know the discovery lights got worse as the years went on.
Probably applies to rrs too.

But it’s a high position car. With high up lights, so the dips shouldn’t be blinding car users

I doubt these would blind a hedgehog at 30 feet.
I'll need to find a solution, otherwise I won't be able to drive in the dark! It really is that bad. Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Thoughts

1 find someone near you with similar age car and compare
Or
2. Order a second hand headlight fit it to one side to see if it’s any different

Check the label ontop of headlight. Does it say AFS

Correct aim is 1.2% or 12cm down from level at 10 meters distance.

Have you changed bulbs? Osram Classic Xenarc D3S are the second brightest option and a much lower price than the brightest at only a small amount of lumens more. Brightest is Osram Xenarc laser. Figure if they’re original they’re 10 years old. Other option is get 10/11 headlights. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

If the top of the headlamps has a label that states AFS - Then I would say you have a fault with the system that needs fixing (or fit non AFS lights!)

If they aren't AFS, I would say you have caused the problem yourself by adjusting the main beams down, back on page 1.
Get them (dip beam) re-alligned by a garage