my 2006 4.2 V8 supercharger had the lights adjusted for mot yesterday came back that the head lamp aim was to high so was dipped beam
took it out last night and dip beam is lower than before cam hardly see the road so it going back on Monday for them to rectify

Should have this Icon come up when vehicle doing system check if AFS fitted, if fault with the system it should continually flash I think.





Cheers
Col

your correct col
that light stayed illuminated when I had abs fault
I said to garage that the headlights self adjusted I get the little dance on start up so I know they ok I just thing garage adjusted them a bit to low
before I hardly had to use full beam as the lights light most of the road up

Andy K wrote:

If the top of the headlamps has a label that states AFS - Then I would say you have a fault with the system that needs fixing (or fit non AFS lights!)

If they aren't AFS, I would say you have caused the problem yourself by adjusting the main beams down, back on page 1.
Get them (dip beam) re-alligned by a garage

Andy. Your suggestions 1 and 2 are very wise, but rural area and unfortunately not many sports around otherwise I would have tried this already.. Heaps of L322s though
Second hand headlight to compare is a good idea. Better to mess with a spare too.
What's AFS?
As to a garage setting lights . I am more than capable of knowing where my headlights should be set and doing it. Most drivers aren't judging by the cock-eyed things I meet.
Main beams should be set first for optimum light on the road and range. If the dips are not separate then they just have to be accepted where they end up.
This is seldom a problem if the makers design them properly with the right angular difference between the two.
A very slight compromise tweak is possible if required.
MOT a couple of days ago. I set the dips back to where I would expect them to be on the road, the night before. Asked friendly MOT chap what the dips looked like and he said bang on. Thankyou. Mains are halfway up the trees.

Someone mentioned bulbs. Haven't changed them. They both look fresh and straight, though it would only take a slight offset to seriously affect the cutoff due to the very short distance between the filament and the shield.

I'll pull the headlights out again and have a longer look at the shields. Its a pity the projector assembly won't come out the access hole for a better look.
Thanks to all
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

These are the best I can do at the min. as it's 25 degrees and bright sunshine, however this is what I get with mine looking through the windscreen in the garage, car is about a metre from the garage door, obviously first picture dip, second main beam.







Cheers
Col

Ok. So your dip beams have been reset. You are back to square/page 1.
It’s now safe to drive on dip beam?

If you turn your headlamps off and “flash” your lights, this should activate halogens only. (Flap will click , but no xenon on)
See if that beam is ok. It should be a long range beam to light down the road.

You could then cover the halogens.
Trying driving with xenon and main beam.

Basically work out if halogen or xenon main beam is what you consider too high

Note on my mk1 the xenon main beam is a tall beam. Lightening both low down and very high up too. Just because it’s high, doesn’t mean it’s not illuminating low as well

Ok Andy.
That's interesting that only the halogens flash. I suppose the xenons are too slow lighting up to flash.
I'll try what you suggest, but it looked as if the xenon and halogen mains were quite well aligned from what I recall on my garage door previously.
The halogens are a wide but vertically narrow beam, and need to be very accurately set to be any use. It is therefore blatantly obvious and annoying if they are not along the road. This is what is causing the issue with everything else.
I'll take the headlights out again , unplug the halogens and drive with just the xenons to see what the xenon main looks like.
PS. no sign of AFS. Pretty sure mine are basic lamps. Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

The halogens are termed "fill in beams" and are supposedly intended to help cover bits of the pattern that the xenons don't cover properly.

Annoyingly, I find that the lights in 2012 aren't as good as those on my 2008TDV8 were. The 2012 has two annoying bright spots that sit high up on the hedges either side of the road about 30 yards ahead. They just distract although presumably were intended to give some light around a corner on a twisty road.

The big issue is that the adjusters for the headlights require a very long hex/allen key in order to get to one of the adjusters on each unit. Which means adjusting them is not the simple thing it seems to be when first looking at them. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

The later disco's and Jag's don't even have main beam halogens, so that's how important landrover considered they were,

Personally I think the main beam xenons are great. Yes, they light up tall motorway like signs, but they also light up everything else too

Halogens there to flash people and long range driving lights.

If your lights dance at switch on, they will be AFS. If that orange dash lights comes on at dash switch on, you will have AFS.
The idea I believe is that the xenon twist left and right near corners, with the steering (like the old Citroen DS)

Well.......
Wish I'd tried this earlier.
Not realising that the projectors had a main beam as well threw me off the scent.
Unplugged the halogens and went for a drive.
The xenons alone are actually not too bad. Dips and mains probably still a little too far apart vertically but reasonable. Not startlingly bright, but a very even spread of light without any shadows. Sort of goes everywhere without any obvious concentrations. I would probably have lived with these if the floodlit treetops hadn't annoyed me.
So, home, and plugged the H7s in again. The bulbs do seem to be angled slightly upwards in the reflector, so I tried to twist them down while watching the beam. Noticeable improvement, closer to the xenons and also softened and spread the very sharp thin previous beam.
First I altered the H7 landing points in the plastic reflector mount. Not quite enough, so altered the flange on the H7 itself as well.
Much much better, halogens are touching the road now. The tweaks could still go a little further, but the whole show is passable for the present.
I'll get the dremel out at some point and grind the plastic mounting a bit more, as I'd rather that than having to bend the bulb flange.

At least I've got a drivable setup now, although it still doesn't explain how LR managed to design a headlight so far out.
Surely they actually tried one before they built thousands?

RRSTDV8. I suspect your annoying bright spots at the top of the hedges are exactly the same issue I've been trying to solve.

If anyone wants to try this fairly easy fix, I'll try and get a photo showing which bit to alter.

Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012