I'm having a few intermittent issues with my doors locking...

The rear passenger door never locks from the fob, I have to manually push in the inner latch before getting out, and manually release it for anyone wanting to get in the drivers rear.

The drivers door sometimes doesn't unlock with the rest of the doors, meaning I need to open the passenger door and release from the inside manually.

And then finally and most annoying, sometimes when I go to lock from the fob, I get 2 beeps meaning that something is left open, yet everything is shut properly. Leaving me with a car thats not locked. Weirdly when this happens, if I try again a little while later, it locks.

Any ideas where I start with this, and what it could be?

Cheers

The central locking door actuators , common problem I've had them all replaced over the last 2 years.

The beeping is probably a faulty bonnet catch , I've had that replaced as well.

yeah, if the bonnet catch is not closed properly, it will let you know on the dash display.

Flippin' thing makes me jump if it toots the horn when I try and lock it, as it's quite loud!

Thanks for the replies guys.

Something I should add is that currently the car won’t lock fully and is giving me the 2 beeps, yet when I press lock I can hear and see that all the inner catches have engaged, yet the it still beeps and the mirrors don’t retract.

Then if I go to open a door, it opens and the alarm goes off.

I don’t have any warnings on the dash regarding the bonnet.

Does this still sound like the central locking actuators? If so, is this a standard job for a garage, or do I need an auto electrician to sort? Or are these easy enough as a DIY job?

Cheers

Try locking the car, and letting it beep at you, then try all the doors, and both tailgates, to see which one isn't locked. Or I think you can do the same with the interior dash lock button. That way you will know which one is faulty.

It's a reasonably easy thing to do, you don't need an auto electrician, but don't leave it to long before getting it fixed, as if it fails completely, then you can't open to door to remove the door card, and you are really into all sorts of problems

To change the lock motor, it isn't an auto elec Job.
Either Mech. or DIY.

It's not the easyiest job, but can be done DIY if you want to get cold.

Basically
Remove door trim
remove speaker
remove window switches from trim and connect up to loom
lower window to about 1/3rd open
remove window glass from mech (2 white plastic clips - can be a bit difficult)
push glass upto the top and either gaffer tape round the top of the door or put a wood prop inside the door.
Remove glass runner at rear off door
disconenct wiring connector to lock latch
undo 3 torx bolts that can be seen from the outside door shut
unclip cables (right faff)

do the reverse

There are instructions and pictures on Disco3 if that sounds appealing

I had this problem, caused by the lower tailgate latch.

THe tailgate closed, but the latch didn't report proper closure to the system, which thought it was still open - hence the bleeping when I tried to lock the car. Because it thought the latch was open already, it wouldn't let me open it! What you might call "catch 22"!

The fault showed up when I read the codes. After a lot of thumping on the back of the tailgate it allowed me to open it again. Long term fix was to replace the tailgate latch.

I assume that any other door/boot/bonnet latch could cause the same problem, so start by reading the codes to find out which one it is.