Once you know what lines need changing it isnt difficult.. they are the same positions in the Hex dump for both Dash's.
I believe only 1 person (that has put their hand up) has changed the imobiliser using SSD and if that works it is great but you need to have access to SSD and hope that it works.
If you dont have the imobiliser data correct the car wont start.

In mine I changed the 4 lines which are VIN, Imobiliser, mileage and Dash ID.
I dont believe the Dash ID needs to be changed as mine now comes up with a Dash Serial number mismatch when I go in on my IDTool. Doesnt affect the operation at all from what I can see.

The hardest parts are
1 Getting a good read on the chips. Once you get the hang of it, its not too bad.
2 Having the balls to cut up the underlying dash structure to fit the new dash into place.

All the rest isnt too bad.

FINALLY got the unit installed. Not sure why the rev range is wrong as its from a Diesel but will look at that later. But any pointers are welcome.


Very happy with the final fit and appearance

Nice job.
Hmmm not sure why yours has reverted back to the standard gauge range.
It is easy fixed using the GAP ID tool though.
You need to request GAP to open up the CCF for you first.

Well done

Looking great Craig, well done mate.

With regards to the rev counter I'm sure you have to change the dash type to type 2 in the ccf.

Did you have to cut the dash much ?

All the best

Craig 2010 RRS 3.6 TDV8 HSE Galway Green

Last edited by Jabba on Mon May 15 2023 7:15am. Edited 1 time in total

Close.. you first need to get GAP to open up all the CCF files for you.. send an email request explaining why.
Then using the GAP IDtool you can then change the Gauge Variant. You then get 4 choices.
Version 2 is the one you want.
It is also a good idea to ensure your CCF is set for the correct engine and fuel.

I guess if you had SSD you could also change it via CCF there... I have never used it so have no idea on how it works.
If it gave some explainations for each CCF it would be pretty handy.

I think I'll have to enjoy as it is for a while after seeing how much Gap is

You can get cheap SDD with cable from China
Or find someone close with Gap tool and pay the small fee to have your Vin added.
There are plenty of other things you can do with a Gap tool too.

Thanks Andy so the SDD tools for sub £50 will do it? will I need special software?

The ones I breifly looked at included the software... it is probably an onlder version but as long as it covers your model it shouldnt be an issue...
CCF can be updated via SDD, they would be the same CCF as found on GAP tool I guess.
I havent used it so I am not 100% sure.

I have used similar "clone" versions of Factory systems before on a VW Scirocco and also a Volvo V70R Turbo Wagon and they worked well for what I needed.
Maybe someone close by you has SDD that could do it for Beer Tokens. SDD isnt locked to the VIN unlike most GAP tools.

Thanks Andy, will keep the post alive when I know.

Equipped with an eprom reader from China (thanks for the tip, @AndyCHO!), the most expensive eprom clip I could have and waiting for my cluster to arrive tomorrow, I read virtually everything about this mod and one thing struck me: I can't find anyone with a 2010 TDV8 who did it, apart from @Jabba, who didn't connect his cluster to the car yet so essentially he's out of the picture as well.

Everybody connecting a vanilla L322 cluster is either TDV6 2010+ RRS or D4s. 2010+ TDV6s and petrol V8s are on CAN2.0B. Isn't it that the 2010 TDV8 is the sole model from this MY that still used CAN2.0A?

Earlier (pre-facelift) TDV8s with CAN2.0A blew the fuses on connecting the new cluster thus rendering the car inoperable until taking a long night shift with SDD.

I connected a CAN2.0B DAB+ module from RR Evoque to my 2010 TDV8 recently and it sent my whole in-car network to hell, spent hours reprogramming all the modules from scratch and calibrating each and every sensor in the car.

Thoughts? Or did I miss something?

EDIT: further investigation shows that my 2010 TDV8 analogue cluster is in fact the same part # as the TDV6 cluster from same year, so perhaps I am just a bit paranoid. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Last edited by TheWojtek on Tue May 16 2023 11:40pm. Edited 3 times in total

Sorry.... that is well above my limited knowledge level.

The earlier RRS and Disco3 had an entirely different Dash, is yours the same as the TDv6 2010 or as per pre-faceliftt models?

There is a guy on FB who is now selling this upgrade... he may be able to shed some light on your prediciament but looking at all his responses on his FB group he might not either...

Look for UK Light Modifications... Lee Yates.

I guess my advice would be to proceed with caution.. I dont think anyone in the original Disco3 forum that had any real knowledge on these other than the basics (what we have done) is still around.
Sorry I cant be of more help.

No, Andy - my cluster is thankfully exactly the same as any post-facelift L320 (or a Disco4, for that matter), so I am a bit more assured this is gonna work. I will keep you posted. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Well by getting a read off the chip on the TFT screen when it arrives wont hurt that screen.. Then when you get your dash out have a look at the model number on the back of it... Mine was an AH22 and another one I have the sceen dump of is CH22.
It probaby doesnt help to even look at Part numbers as the tacho sweep may be different in the V8 to the V6.

I wonder why the Canbus is different on the V8 diesel 2010 to the rest of the range!!!

Is your entertainment system the same as other 2010 units?
Maybe it was just that it couldnt recognise the Evoque unit rather than being a Canbus issue?

It is all whitemans magic as far as I am concerned.. I surprised myself at being able to get mine to work.

No, the whole car is 2010 on the outside and inside, just like a TDV6 3.0 or a 5.0. The point is, it was the single model year for the TDV8 to exist in this facelifted body because emissions. The 2010 repair manual does not even mention this engine, so you need a pre-facelift manual for the engine (and possibly electrics) and a post-facelift manual for the rest. This made me think JLR didn't upgrade the whole car as it did with the other engine variants but just the looks of it and left the underpinnings untouched.
OK, gotta see what happens when I take the cluster out. This is going to be fun. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE