Note that as in my first post, you cannot just hook up trailer lights to the rear light cluster.
The proper connections as described do let you use a convertor box (British to American system) .
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Come for a visit, Victoria is beautiful!

Last edited by AlanM on Fri Nov 16 2018 5:44pm. Edited 2 times in total

Spurred into action by the idiot above, I got to looking at the problem more intensively. The twit just mentioned hooked up his trailer lights by splicing into the wires just behind the rear lights. Tut, tut this will not do it. LR have already wired up a nice pair of sockets for trailer wires and all you have to do is find these two sockets, determine which terminals operate which rear lights and plug into them.

Before starting remove the plastic bumper plate from just above the hitch (two wide flat screws), and ensure your vehicle does not already have any trailer sokets showing behind it!

Get a wide flat prybar about 18" long like this: (I kid you not.)


Prise off the lower left bit of carpet beside the tool tray lid. Prise off the rear of the left hand luggage compartment side panel. Move to the left rear door and prise up the rear portion of the left rear doorsill. (You might want to pull off the rubber door seal for a few feet.) Prise off the front of the side panel (the low forward bit is a sod). Remove the 12v plug then the panel can be taken out of the car.



The pre-wired sockets can now be seen attached to a metal bracket just in front of the rear lights. They are the ones with wires running into them but no wires running out of them. Detatch them from the bracket. Press on the release tab and pull off the dummy plugs on the ends (I can't see how to use these unless you have some terminals that will push into them - I didn't bother and discarded them).

LR have already catered for the conversion from English to American indicator/brake lights - just find the right terminals!

Solder a pin to the end of a spare bulb and a wire to the side. Ground the wire on one of the visible ground terminals. Switching on various lights on the car, use the bulb to test which socket holes on both sockets you need for your particular hookup (side lights, indicators, brake lights etc. There is even one that's always live).

Push a bit of coat hanger wire through one of the rubber grommets leading downwards and starting near the hitch thread the wire from your trailer plug the best way you can to avoid the 'big dangly weights' and reach the coat hanger wire, then use it to pull the trailer wire through.

Solder suitable terminals to each trailer wire and push into the socket holes you located above. Tape everything up to insulate it and stop it rattling.

Put everything back!

The dealer wanted $300 plus for the harness plus 1.5 hours labour. (In conversation with him I gleaned where the pre-wired sockets are and that there is no re-programming needed.)

My total cost $3.00 for a small four pin trailer plug.


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Come for a visit, Victoria is beautiful!

Last edited by AlanM on Wed Aug 04 2010 1:02am. Edited 1 time in total

Alan - respect is definetely due

Alan, you're a marvel with these things. Excellent stuff!!

Stickied it. 

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Hey - I got another sticky !

Thanks guys.

(What to tackle next?)

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Come for a visit, Victoria is beautiful!

Has anyone had problems with "flashing" indicators?

Let me explain.....

I have a properly wired up towbar (factory fit) that works really well with trailers and caravans. However I now have replaced the old rusted out light units on my trailer with proper LED units. When I mean proper I mean E certified LED cluster units, not e-bay specials.

All the lights work fine on demand, sidelights, brake lights and indicators. However, both indicators continually pulse dimly when connected to the vehicle. The "Trailer" light does not come on when the trailer is connected.

I suspect that the pulsing is some sort of electronic sensing pusle to see if the trailer is connected and instead of detecting the low wattage LED units it simply flashes them.

Does this sound likely?

Martin 2016 RRS 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography Dynamic in Montalcino Red and Stealth Kit

Yes there is a problem with LED lamps and the LR wiring system - there is a cure for it over on the D3 forums IIRC. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
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Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

I just saw this thread after I installed my OEM wiring HAHA, sucks. But, it was only 150 USD for me. And I guess I don't mind that for a clean install.

Lost 2 of those stupid clips. I never liked those clips.

Above all check you have a very good earth connection; funny things will happen to indicators, brake lights etc otherwise.

Hi, i have just tried this diy approach with using a bulb tester to find out which pins power what. I am using a standard 7 pin socket but i can only get one sidelight to work on trailer board?? Also if i brake the when i am indicating the indicators go off?

Anyone help or has anyone done it the "cheap" way successfully and let me know exactly which wires work for them?

How do you find separate left and right side lights? Thanks, Gab

Connect the trailer L and R Side lights (black & brown) to the same RRS wire. This is what the factory kit does.


RRS Colour.....7pin Socket black

Yellow.............Yellow 1 Ind L
Red/Yellow......Blue 2 Fog
Chassis stud...White 3 (earth)
Green.............Green 4 Ind R
Brown..............Brown 5 and Black 7 Tail lights
Green/Purple....Red 6 Brake


Caravan Socket
RRS Colour.....7pin Socket white/grey

Green/brown.....Yellow 1 Reversing lights
Chassis stud.....White 3 (earth)
Green/Brown(thick).....4 Green Power
Red/white or Red *........6 Red Ignition power. (this is fused/limited to 10A)
Chassis stud......Black 7 (earth)


*


If you have this second relay fitted (behind left light), you can either take the feed for pin 6 from the red wire (limited to 10A)
or fit a 15A fuse between thick Green/Brown at the LR trailer connector and the blue wire (at the LR connector) to have a full 15A supply at the red/white wire

Last edited by Andy K on Sun Aug 23 2020 4:00pm. Edited 8 times in total

mlines wrote:

Has anyone had problems with "flashing" indicators?

on my trailer with proper LED units. When I mean proper I mean E certified LED cluster units, not e-bay specials.

However, both indicators continually pulse dimly when connected to the vehicle. The "Trailer" light does not come on when the trailer is connected.

I suspect that the pulsing is some sort of electronic sensing pusle to see if the trailer is connected and instead of detecting the low wattage LED units it simply flashes them.

Does this sound likely?

Martin

You need a decent load on the trailer indicator. I tried a 5W bulb and the car wouldn't detect it.
I find 21W bulbs work best

gstuart wrote:

Hi

Is it just the pins u want for the terminal block

Happy to share the link if u want them and where to buy them from


Also made up my own lead for my D3 , so I could charge via the 12s socket

I also fitted a trailer socket at the front of the house , so when I parked on the drive was easy to plug an extension lead in to charge my dual battery set up , charger is in the hallway

gstuart wrote:

Ur welcome

Here are all the details for the pins

Paul sells them and is a member of Landyzone / comes under the ebay names of Land Rover connectors

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/landrover-connectors

Here are the full details of the connector plugs and pins

http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/ya...3/025.html

Crimp tool, but if u only doing a few could get away with ordinary crimp pliers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hozan-P-706-Barre...B002TKG11G

The plugs are called YAZAKI

Part numbers , quote these to Paul

Male - 7114-4111-02

http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/ya...nServlet_e

Female 7116-4111-02

http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/ya...;select=XX


Finding the info took some finding , hope it’s of use to others , can save a few bob then not having to but the complete connector plugs

Hope it helps

Gary

Hi

Have just added all the details of what the terminals are and where to get them

Hope it will be useful to others in the future

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic52138.html