Hi all,

I know this is a well-known problem but recently I had to replace my amplifier as water had leaked into the passenger footwell from a corroded joint between the sunroof drain hole and the pipe it connects to and blown the amp. I pulled down the headliner by the rear grab handle and the pipe has actually corroded off the sunroof cassette completely and I imagine the other 3 will be not far off doing the same despite me garaging the car since I've owned it.

I really don't want to sell the car as I love it but I also refuse to spend several thousand on a new sunroof cassette on a car that WBAC values at £13k!

Does anyone have any clever fixes for this? I don't think welding is an option as it's a steel sunroof and an aluminium connector to the pipe I think...

Any ideas/fixes gratefully received! 2014 L494 V8 s/c Autobiography Dynamic

Yes quite an easy fix - check here Ive posted a few threads about my fix

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/sunroo...ge.351767/

Thanks Karl - that’s very helpful.

I read “Pontoon”’s post with interest as he seems to say that you can bypass using the drain holes completely but I don’t fully understand his procedure and he sadly didn’t follow up with anything further. If you can shed any light on it I’d be very grateful!

Here’s his post:

“It’s repairable, you guys are getting rid of the entire car because of a tiny issue. I have a 2014 that is doing this, I sealed both drains with jb weld. Nice and smooth then ran a plastic drain just Under the plastic clip that pops off from outside the car...that plastic drain is nicely hidden and allows any standing water to turn off. Problem solved. This stops any water going into the cabin , water drains on the outside nicely, the drains are covered by a latch on strip. That can also be caulked around to seal the entire area from any water thus you won’t need to worry at all… you have four drains , two heading back to the rear a frame from the fwd top of passenger door and two at the front top a frame right by the windshield corners. it’s like throwing away an apple because you found a spot on it lol…” 2014 L494 V8 s/c Autobiography Dynamic

Check here and also search youtube one guy has done the same repair on a L405

Thanks again but I can't find any videos or text on how to bypass/block-up the drain holes and install what "Pontoon" describes as a "plastic drain" to allow the water to drain outside the car. He seems to make it sound like a very simple fix so I'm keen to explore this before dropping the roof lining and doing one of the other fixes I've seen on YouTube!

Your help is much appreciated! 2014 L494 V8 s/c Autobiography Dynamic

Here sir, I used a new rubber bung in the original sunroof drain hole and sealed with with car seam sealer, then connected a rubber hose to the original drain tube.

As a temp fix you can but some T tape to put over the channels on the sunroof to stop water ingress so the water wont go into the channels.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Windscreen-Automo...2e69f172c0

Thank you Karl - I’ve seen that one but that’s the “full” job and from what I understand, this guy called Pontoon has managed to block up the drain holes entirely and somehow install a new drain tube under the plastic trim that runs the length of the car. I’ll try to message him and ask for clearer instructions! Will post them here if I manage it.

Thanks again for your time/help! 2014 L494 V8 s/c Autobiography Dynamic

Hi All

Ive just suffered at the hands of this and my car has spent 80% of its life in the garage out of the rain, I guess thats what living by the cost does!


Anyway its not all that bad of a job once you know where to look.

I looked at loads of videos and didnt bother doing one myself as Im camera shy!

Repair kits can be had form loads of palces I opted for Ali as it was a n brainer in compariosn to the others on sale in the UK knowing they will be the sale ones just marked 500%!

JLR pn LR054820

Link correct as of today

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007038...1802cq2PR3


A few things you will need to have handy for the job

Torx bit t30 I think anyway its the one for removing the grab handles in the rear.

Dill bit extension holder for the the thread tap
Vac
Some trim tools plastic type
Flat head screwdriver wide blade and something smaller to help twith trim.

Jenolite rust killer spray or similar to treat the area
Gorrila glue (the outdoor waterproof stuff, as it expands on curing)
Some silicone sealant (radiator valve type small tube save buying a huge one)
Maybe and air duster but an airline is best just to help clear the drain hoses)
Some cable ties(not really needed but whilst you are there and all that)

Job is about 1hour either side without any snags

Could be quicker depending on how brave you feel pulling bit of trim (might be worht getting a bag of yellow trim clips just incase (hairdryer on the panels for a bit help them be a little less brittle)

Roof parts first.

There is a palstic trim panel that runs along side the sunroof that needs to be popped out, its just on clips and comes out pretty easy take them out either side to allow access to the drian holes for cleaning and testing.


This was the one after fitting with the gorrila glue




On the inside

Take out the screws behind each hinge on the rear grab handle (there is a little flip down cover that hides them) The leave the handle in place just take outthe screw and put in a dish

Next to that is the interior light therer are a few types, if it the one thats just a light then its a pop out the light job or if there is a panel to allow access to one screw.

IF it the one with a vent and speaker then prise out the vent section (this seems to be a fron cover of the vent that seems liek its gonna break when you pop it off but its held onto the vent assembly behind with little tangs. be brave it does come out and then you can prise the vent part out to show the screw

(I lost time on this part as it felt wrong trying to prise the vent out and felt like it should be the speaker next to it but hey ho)

Once the screw is out put it in the bowl as they are all the same.

Now for the rest of the trim parts

To make it easier to remove pull the dorr seals off around the B pillar on both front and rear doors.

You then need to grab the lower pillar section plastic trim and pop is out from the bottom first then it just pops off (wathc out for those clips. Its easier to move the seat fully forward for this part.

Then the upper part, this is often roof colour and texture so gets some glove if its ivory ot avoid gubby prints on it.
This is connected to the seat belt slider, so pull out from the bottom and then pull downwards and it comes out with ease. just place it to one side, its only need to come off as it clamps the roof liner up in the middle.

Getting it back in is the same just a bit fiddly trying to line up the slider mechanism.

The roof liner is ready ot be pulled down a little in the middle now to get hand access to the drains

Now you will need some form or light to make it easier I use the cheap magentic LED lights from amazon (I have these in the door pockets as the have light PIR's so handy for night)

Maybe get something soft like a hand towel you can roll up so that it hold the roof lining down If doesnt nee to come down all that much to get access as long as you can get you hands in there.

Then you can see the elbow or whats left of it! (one side on mine was still attached but rotten and blocked from the top and just snapped off)



Next step is clean out the end of there hose use s small thing screw driver to break the rust up a bit and then you can literally roll in between your fingers and it breaks up, I use a peg to block the hose just so no more went further down.

Then clean up and run some hot water down it not boiling to check flow and then if you have an airline a little blast, just not full pressure to clear it out)

Now you need to break any of the left over elbow and rust using a screw driver or drilling it out if there is something left.

Then give it a lick with the rust killer.

Now its time to use the drill extension and tap the new thread try and get the angle as close as you can but it will naturally guide you.

The clean and swarf and do a test fit, make sure its flush and maybe water test, This is the part that is hardest as the gap is small and not much room for hands but it is doable

If all is good grab that silicone, and then dob the thread with a load of it and then wind the new elbow into place tight (wipe of an silicone that has come out the top, it could impede water flow but its easy clean off.

(i was unlucky on one side as the rust had made the hole just a little too big and the tap made it a little too loose so I then used the gorilla glue instead of silicone to fix the new elbow in place and a screwdriver from the top to hold it on place, the glue swells on curing so filled the hole and is water proof for outside use. ran a little slither around the opening to)


Now get your cable tie and tighten it up aroudn the end part of the tube ready to slide over the drain, once its pushed fully home tighten the cable tie as best you can, its not really needed but I just thought it might help in summer if the hose get warmer and vibrations etc....

Now jump back up on the roof and do some test pours and check for leaks and all all is good put it all back and grab a cheeky glass of Rose if its summer or maybe a red in the winter, Beer can be any time!

Its well worth lubricating the sunroof mechanism runner with some clean slicone spray whilst the trim is off, i sprayed cleaned with kitchen roll then ran the roof a few times and then re sprayed, the roof always seemed a little sluggish opening and now its back to the way it was nice n smooth and quite quick)

You have now just solved a problem you shouldnt have need too! JLR just wanted to make you feel like a man (sorry he they them or whatever the new words are for anyone in the future reading this, no offence is intended)

Hope this helps someone at some point, there are vids on you tube but its handy to watch a few of them, an none use the kits thats available and as this time some take more of the roof down that is really needed.

Good luck If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

Wow great write up!
I didn’t know about these new little kits - did both sides of mine a year ago been all fine but in heavy downpours I get a little overspill on one side so will redo using one of these kits 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Cheers
Yeah there is an even easier kit I see now so no need to thread by the looks of it although not sure if the bore will be as big so might not drain as quick maybe.

I wondered why I was getting rain run down the windscreen on the drivers side when breaking and thats a sure fire way to tell the drain is blocked, it could be sludge but unlikely, it will be more likely the drain has failed and rusted up inside the tube like mine so its blocks it.

The passenger side on mine had just come away and all the drain elbow was in the pipe. This was the side that took the downpour and filled the footwells up!

A puddle of water came out the rear passenger door when I checked it! We were away and didnt think to open that door and then when the amp started palying up i checked and got wet feet when i opened the door! Had a whole day of heavy rain!

Glad its done now and now ive done it, its not so bad, ive seen people taking the whole roof down and removing all sorts of trim, I did undo the handle on the passeger side front first time round but realised it made little difference to access so just the rear is needed!

As water had been in there I had the carpets up anyway to dry it all out so my lecy bill might be high as the fan heater has been on for a few days pointed ast the floor with the windows just open enough to create some draw for the hot moist air!

Its really not that bad now ive done it, and I was suffering from a cold so patience on my side and luckily the hulk never appeared but it was close!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006974...ry_from%3A If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

Hi, just been reading this as I've heard about the issue but don't have it, at least I don't think so . Only had mine for a few weeks and busy at work so still finding my way around it. First class post BTW

Cheers I would take the time to have a look, as prevention is better than cure, just incase you flood the amp and electrics or stain the headlining if its light colour.

Yuo can check by popping of the covers on the roof and doing a drain test if they both drain ok you are probably all right they drain out over the rear wheels. Use hot water as it will help melt any dirt in there.

Airline to clean them through but dont blast them incase they are more corroded than you can see and you then blow the hose off inside!

Unless this mod has been carried out its a safe bet they are well on their way to rotting out so its just a matter of time, and had I known I would of checked them much sooner, but as mine is dry most of its life inside I thought it probably wont be an issue! If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

Does this only apply to opening sun roofs or are there drains on a fixed panoramic roof? 2023 P440e SE Dynamic on order -cancelled

2022 HSE Dynamic P400e

2017 Discovery 3.0 HSE Silicon Silver Nimbus interior and a few extra toys SOLD

2013 HSE Black, Orkney Grey, Ebony Seats and Ivory Interior SOLD

2006 HSE

Plus a few other cars inbetween!

Not sure I think the fixed still has the same set up on the roof side so maybe it does.

The pano and sunroof are held in by a frame under the roof line so the glass fitted flush, Ive heard people retro fitting the sliding roof into the fixed pano so id say the tray part will be the same

The trim panels that run along the roof front to back have rubber seals on them but the are not to keep water out they are kinda to lessen the volume but they are designed to leak through but keep debris out.

If you have trim along the sides of the pano rof them pop them off (its easy job) and see if you have some holes in under the trim around the front side of the rear door then the problem will be the same.

All that said the fixed pano might have different seals along the sides that kepp water out. If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder