Eh up all,

Out of the blue after starting the car today , got yellow triangle on dash and Normal Ride Height Only Available message up.

At this stage the car was only stood on tick over and not moved.

I stopped the car and restarted, no message appeared?

I then opened driver door and message popped up !!

Is that a coincidence, I cannot see how it could be .

So stopped and restarted car, message disappeared, so I drove the car for about half a mile and message re appeared 🤔

So pulled over and did same again, message stayed off and I drove it for 3 minutes with no issues. I then pulled over and put it in off road mode, worked perfectly 👍

I then drove it for 15 minutes with no issues, pulled it over again and repeated the test , again no issues.

I then drove it another 15 minutes and repeated, again no issues - at this stage I’m confused 🫤

I stopped it again and re started it at home, no message at all and everything working fine.

I’ve trawled on here and the issue points towards the compressor - can anyone support my theory based on the above symptoms?

If it is the compressor then can has anyone replaced one and how hard / easy is it, im reasonable with the spanner’s, but I’ve learned from everyone on here things with RRS are never that obvious or simple

Thanks in advance for any inputs.

Fault codes first

Eh up Disco Mikey

Thanks for the reply

, I’ve no reader so struggle with getting codes off

I’ll see if I can get it to an Indy near me to get it read

Is there owt out there that’s reasonable price I could get - read on here about GapII.?

Owt electric int my strong point unless it’s plug n play 😁

Hate paying out for just a code but I guess I could be chasing shadows if it could be multiple things wrong 👍

Thanks again

I have had the same issue for a while now,, sometimes it's fine for days on end, then I might get the fault a couple of times in a day. Some time ago I rebuilt the compressor as was having other issues and all was fine for a good while then this issue surfaced. I was in the process of running a few tests,,, but life took over and it's been on the back burner of late. What I did find out when I was fiddling one day, was that the compressor had started as it should have, but cut out after a few seconds. I quickly removed the main connector from the compressor and checked for a supply,, and I was getting more than 12V,, but the compressor was not running. I think I am correct in assuming the main two pin connection is the supply to drive the compressor,, if it is live compressor should run?. Compressor motor wa quite warm at this time which leads me to think it is the motor itself at fault. These are permanent magnet motors and are not serviceable so in short the overall problem is the compressor unit,, but the item at fault is the motor,,.
Good news is that it passed it's MOT last week with no advisories. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Compressor on its way out, same thing happend to me.
You can change the exhaust valve on the compressor but usually when it happens on and off the compressor is getting 'lazy' and on its way out, you can buy a service kit if you wanted to take it apart or a new compressor from ebay is about £130.

Eh up gogsy1956

Thanks for the information, I’ll get it code checked anyway but I’m working on the basis I’ll have to strip it out🤔

Karlp606

Good to get your experience on this, im not messing about with a service kit as it’s probably more hassle than swooping out with a new motor, am I right in thinking mine would be an AAK model . ( 2013 Red Edition SDV6)

Anyone any good advice on getting these out, im banking on it being this so might as well start my research now. Saves the rain dripping down my sleeves any longer than is necessary!!!!😂

looked at a couple of video and I think I’ve got the idea but now,t like the first hand experience on here 👍

I want to make it as smooth and pain free as possible

Hi yes have a look on eBay for a replacement compressor any for a l494 will be fine - compressor is located under the spare wheel in the boot, easy to swap out disconnect everything reconnect should be all good.
There is a valve block located in the engine compartment I think you can take apart and check for any leaks or blockages before buying a new compressor - not sure if anyone’s had any job cleaning the valve block out.

Eh up Karlp606

From my research I think mine is located under the car to the rear of the vehicle, covered in a plastic shroud which is then bolted to the chassis ?

I hope it is in the boot well but I’ve never seen one, my spare is slung underneath ?

I do know the full fats have the compressor in the boot well

I hope your right and im wrong as it will save hours of grovelling around and no doubt dealing with rusty stuck bolts

Anyone confirm either way 🤔👍

Is yours a l494 or a l320?
L494 in boot
L320 underneath like you say - easy to do but will need a jack and some axle stands .

Eh up

L320 👍

Got the 3t jacks and axle stands , assuming I’ve got to get it in the air and secured on the chassis rails before even attempting to drop the compressor

I need to find out if it’s under pressure and do you need to discharge the air first and how?

Could be overthinking this hence wanting to research as much as possible first

I’m sure someone on here might have an idiot guide - it will need to be for me

Cheers for all the inputs

Check here matey , looks fairly straight forward

Eh up Karlp606

Will have a look not seen this one,

I don’t think it will deflate from memory. But you need to take safe precautions anyway

You will need wd40 for bolts and to get the large plastic pipes out the rear.
12mm spanner
Wise to loosen rear left wheel bolts incase it needs to come off.

An autel ap200 in white is about £66 on amazon.
Fault code reader is a must. Wouldn’t surprise me if it’s a valve block issue. (That will deflate suspension )
Need fault codes before you start.

Compressor fault on these usually give a message “slow to raise” on dash

Eh up Andy K

Thanks for the inputs, got all that lot, im looking at videos on You Tube and I think I’ll need an angle grinder 🤔

By the looks of what I’ve seen even the bolts covering the shroud are a pig let alone the three holding the support bracket to chassis - think I’m in for some fun at some point 🤬

Will definitely look at autel not come across that

I’m hoping it’s compressor at leat I can do that myself ( I think ) with help from everyone here 👍

Front valve block is easier.
£20 for the seals.

So worth getting the codes read rather than guessing.