I didn't have any issues at all with the slam panel bolts,, crack them off and then give a good squirt of WD40 or similar and work them back and forth.
I'm sure the bumper has to come off to get the lower slam panel bolts,, it also allows the slam panel to move further forward which give more room to wiggle the condenser out,, tbh it comes off quite easy. There are small screws in the wheel arch that tie the arch to the slam panel,, get these out also or you will have to prise the slam panel forward to get your wiggle room.
The radiator is pegged to the slam panel at the top,,, I'm sure I did not move the radiator just the pegs to release it from the slam panel,,, loosen off the brackets that hold the other coolers in front of the condenser.
I did make up a long extension to undo some of the hidden bolts that hold the condenser,, most you can get from the front but one is at the left / bottom on the engine side of the condenser,,,, which called for a little ingenuity to get out.

I think I have more pics somewhere so I will try to upload them to my gallery this afternoon,, may help you out. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Thanks Gogsy - a set of extra long extensions ordered. I'm sure I could get the length cobbling together all my existing bits, but I always like an excuse to order new tools.

Good info on the bumper removal.

Making good progress - decided to make a start whilst I was having a break for lunch.

Everything going swimmingly, aside from that pesky bottom left bolt. Any tips on how to remove it ? The PS cooler is quite a big one, not like the tiddly pipe cleaners I've seen in videos etc. There's a large plastic shroud covering the cooler and that's hiding the 8mm bolt.

Pleased to say that it definitely is the condenser - the bottom row of vanes has come away and there's a definite sign of corrosion at on point, where I suspect the leak is.

All done, car back together and awaiting a re-gas. Probably took me 3.5 hrs start to finish.

My top tips are to ensure you have some spare fixings of various types.

No need to drain the rad, just clamp off the expansion tank hoses before removing them.

Take the expansion tank off and make sure it’s in position before re-fitting the slam panel. You can then fix it down and hang it off the slam panel cotton wheel.

The coolant level sensor connection is held on with a metal spring clip. You need to lift the expansion tank up to get to it.

Don’t forget to re-connect the washer jet hoses before re-fitting the bumper.

I reckon if you put a stop watch on me and I had the tools to hand I could do it in an hour or so. A lot of time was wasted going into the workshop to get various bits and pieces and also trying to find varoius sockets, extensions, torx bits etc. Worth putting all the fixings in a tub to keep the level of mess on the floor to a minimum.

Is definitely doable for a home mechanic and a very satisfying job once done.

Just back from the re-gas and pleased to report all seems to be blowing nice and cold. Mind you it’s 12 degrees outside.

They did ask if I had air con in the rear as well, which I wasn’t sure, so just had it gassed up for front only. The rear vents don’t have hot and cold markings, just directional settings, so I assume it’s front only.

The temperature front and rear did seem to be the same coming out of the vents though. Is it effectively one temp suits all ?

Some discoverys (e.g HSE) with 3 row seating have the "rear" A/C to cool the extra people.

So there is another fan and evaporator in the boot, and vents in the roof.

A/C will come out your rear vents, but thank fully you don't have the extra bits which do fail

Thanks Andy - that’s good to hear