Eh up

On the basis I’m not been beat, I cracked on

It’s one of those days

Torx bolt will not shift for love nor money, in fact ......





Still making the best of it as pads are well down





Will do a tidy up of calipers and mount - then look for more sage advice on setting the epb to service- perhaps I need more than an idiots guide

Frustrated - cheers from TTR

Ouch. When the disc retaining bolt is stubborn I like to hit the T50 bit with a hammer a few times, helps loosen things up.

Okay here’s what I’d do in your situation; get the disc retaining screws out after getting a stronger T50 bit. Back off the PB shoe adjusters, possibly give the rotors some love taps, they like that, and get the rotors off. Then I’d assess the PB shoes and if I really really needed to change them. This will not require the dismount function, I know, I’ve removed plenty of these rotors doing the above before saying, “oops, forgot to do the dismount procedure in SDD.” Remove the shoes, if they look okay and levers aren’t seized, clean them up, grease the contact points of the backing plate, put them back on, new rotors on, adjust the shoes correctly and do the bedding in procedure. Other than replacing the springs this is essentially what I just did with mine.

Jesus look at all the meat on them pads! Do you even brake?

 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Eh up

NoExpert - thanks for taking time to reply

For larger hammer and short bit - trying heAt and impact - FFS it’s stubborn might need to resort to drilling the Fxxx out.

I’ve only had car since July so opted for replacing consumables given time it takes v cost, agree compared to yours Ive got years left

Cracking on - will update on any progress

Eh up all,

This is turning into a better saga than my front sump guard,,,

After using a suitable easing tool, variety of brass punches and heat the torx screw is out

However I now find this bit baffling

Mine has the rotary gear selection

I left it in N - it wasn’t happy when I switched off and dash stayed lit so ignored it.

Rear wheel moved freely, I’ve been using a pry to lock it in place while removing the torx screw.

I’ve now come to move the disc round to find the adjuster to back off the shoes and the bl88dy thing has gone into P - It’s really one of those days.

Does this model/ year really need the diagnostic tool to put it in service mode and allow wheel to move?

How do others sort this out - it’s turning into a pantomime ( hope it’s entertaining others on the forum as well as providing useful information) and I’m the back end of the Horse 🐴!!!!!!

Cheers all

Pull up the cup holders, look for a red pull tab, pull that back, find lock mechanism, rotate it with a coin/screwdriver, pull lever up and it will lock into place. It’s now in neutral. Reverse the steps when done. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Eh up

Well Me! I would never have found that

It’s worked a treat

Back to it - this is a saga for sure

Thanks for help

You’re learning more about your car than you probably wanted to. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Eh up all,

Firstly a BIG shout to everyone who has helped on this thread so far I could not have got this far without the advice

Secondly this saga continues albeit it has moved forwards

After pulling this - who the F2k would know it was there




Managed to get the disc off after an hour of pi88ing around- I know I did everything right but what a bu88er to get off, could just have done with shoes reducing another few mm.

Worked it round side to side and with patience came off



Eventually cleaned down splash guard and painted, checked shoes and there fine so blow-out loads of dust and - all sorted and cleaned up and copper slip one edges where shoes touch backplate

Also painted orange the 5mm adjusted wedge so I can see it

Threw some paint on to stop it rusting




The absolute joy - NOT

Now I’m having this to celebrate doing one side in one day !!!!!





Tomorrow carry out adjustments to epb as per Bodsys then start other side - it’s got to get better


Thanks to everyone on here for their patience and advice and hope this thread is amusing everyone and hopefully loads of good tips

Cheers TTR

You know, it may have taken you a day to do one side, but you’ve persevered, learned some stuff and are getting through it. Pretty soon you’ll be changing inlet manifolds and oil pumps. Rest, relax and prepare for tomorrow. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Eh up

NoExpert - thanks for the support today, could not have got past the P position without knowing what to do.

Every day is a school day - thanks for the lessons

Tomorrow rebuild drivers side and strip passenger down - let’s see what that brings.

Signing off- beers required

Cheers all

Eh up ,

Well - today was definitely a challenge again.

My torx screws were banged in by a gorilla 🦍, or they just rust in like nothing else, I’m sure that someone used threadlock on it for good measure - WHY !!!!

After brass drift , large hammer and loads of heat the bl88by thing moved

I just lost 2 hours on that alone.

On a positive note the disc then came off easier so you win some ...........

Followed Bodsys again by the letter for setting the epb shoes - those little wedges I thought were going to snap my Allen key until it finally gave and adjusted.

I’m glad I painted them orange to ID through the spy hole - good tip for anyone else

So end of day and driver side rebuilt






and passenger to do







Thanks again all, just the rebuild slot everything back in place tomorrow night, set epb shoes, put gearbox lock back, out FL8 fuse back............

Will update this had better work

Those disc retaining screws are trilobal screws, they can kind of tap/clean threads as they go in. This makes them a bit tough. If somebody put them in to factory torque, god save you. I tend to put a bit of copper spray on them to help with next time.

How were your slide pins? I often find these seized or barely moving (one of mine was seized, the rest on their way). I fully rebuilt the front and rear calipers when I did the pads. Not a bad job and not expensive. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Eh up NoExpert

Yup - I reckon they torqued them disc retaining screws upton100Nm ,,,,,,

Both sets of slide pins were absolutely fine, both set of pads were even wear so good stuff on that front

I was expecting I full strip down too, had the silicone grease ready but saved me a job.

I’ve got everything crossed for a decent rebuild and no issues with the handbrake- Think just everyone will heAr the explosion 💥 and if it’s doesn’t

I find that as short a torx bit as possible, combined with an impact driver and a big hammer usually does the job. Easier with two people.
Alternatively, fit the bit in a socket on a t-bar and whack along the axis, while under torque.
Always replace with copperslip to prevent a second occurrence.
I was trained in the pre power tool days. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

Eh up all,

Well to end this sage ( or so I hope )

Tonight rebuilt passenger side, followed Bodys to the letter, even checked and rechecked a few times to get it right again.

Pleased with end result, they have tided up nicely

Before







After








Rebuilt and put FL8 fuse back, put gearbox emergency release back in place and with some trepidation started car.

Unlike last time no issues on startup, edged car forward a few metres and braked, same in reverse, just to test it stopped

Then the bit I was worried about, tried epb on flat , all seems good on first few applications

Will do the bedding in routine tomorrow

Big thanks to all who provided information and support on this post, I could not have done it without everyone’s input. The stuff I learnt was more than I expected to do, I reckon I’m reasonable with a set of spanner’s but it was the background knowledge and reading that really allowed me to build the confidence to give it a go. Hope some of the stuff I’ve posted helps others who might want to do theirs.

Yes it took me nearly two full days, yes a garage would do it in a morning, it’s not about the money ( though being a Yorkshire man you know I’m lying 🤥) it’s about learning the job and the satisfaction of doing it alone, on a garage floor with basic kit. It’s certainly do able for anyone that’s fairly familiar with basic mechanics.

Cheers again all

Next job - front bumper respray I think 🤔