Hi all. I’d appreciate some advice and / or info on upgrading the brakes on my 2005 2.7 TDV6. (20” wheels)

I’ve noticed that in high temperatures the braking system becomes less effective especially on gradients. From what I’ve read here and elsewhere this is not uncommon and some people opt for better quality brakes such as ceramic or “semi-metallic”.

I confess to having only a limited knowledge of these things. I’ve read various things about Brembo and “pots” & sizes, but, if these do help solve this problem generally, I’m not sure if they do a size to fit my car and I don’t want to change the wheel size.

I’ve seen what appear to be high quality discs that have holes bored around them to help with extreme heat, but some say it makes little difference overall. They cost a lot more but that’s OK if they do the job.

I should add that in “normal” driving conditions the braking system is fine. The car is serviced regularly and I’ve had new brakes fitted when needed. I’m confident there is no water in the brake fluid and there are no leaks.

I use a good independent 4x4 garage who I trust although the language barrier is sometimes an issue which is why I’d like to have some idea as to my options before I go there. Availability of some parts (especially importing) can also be an issue here but that’s something I can sort with the garage if needs be.

Any advice around what options I might have to ensure consistent maximum braking efficiency in high temperatures would be gratefully received. Barrie.
2017-Jan 2024: 2005 RRS 2.7TDV6. Best car I ever had - until now!
Current: 2018 Ford Ranger Wildtrak 3.2

Drilling of discs isn't to do with heat, specifically, but to allow for removal of the gases produced when you brake - so the pads can get better contact with the discs. They act a bit like tyre tread on a wet road, in effect. The gases are basically the result of the pad material breaking down - that's what absorbs the energy and gives the braking effect.

Also allows for the pads to be kept cleaner (although results in more wear) and gives better initial bite (so they say). 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

If you wanted a cheap upgrade you could switch to the standard facelift calipers and rotors. They’re 360mm with TRW two piston sliding calipers on the front and 350mm with TRW single piston sliding calipers on the rear. You would need the carriers as well as the backplates going this route. The front backplates are easy to change, the rears are a much bigger pain. I’d start with the fronts, then when you feel like doing rear wheel bearings, do the rears.

I wouldn’t mess with drilled or slotted rotors, there’s really no benefit due to how much material is removed. Bigger rotors with calipers to suit them are what will help.

I put four piston Brembos on my 2011 3.0 TDV6 and the difference was negligible between the Brembos and the stock calipers (what I recommend getting). They will also look completely stock and not catch any additional attention from the inspectors there. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Last edited by NoExpert on Tue Jun 27 2023 8:57am. Edited 1 time in total

Hi Barrie. I've had the V8 brake upgrade similar to this:

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/front--r...2793-c.asp

The indie I used recommended LR discs and pads which I agreed to try. I have to say for such a simple physical change the braking performance was night and day, making me think why didn't I do this ages ago. I might try some other exotic pads when the time comes. But really I'd go again unless they've become financially stupid. Not a tremendous amount of brake dust but the alloys obviously blacken eventually.

Steve. 2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE in Cairns Blue.

If the brakes are less efficient in the heat, my first point of inspection would be the fluid.

Brake fluid will deteriate over time, but the more times it gets hotter than normal, the quicker it'll do so.

I think LR say use DOT4, I use DOT5.1, and a quality brand as well, nothing no ones ever heard of.


Dave 2010 3.6 TDV8 HSE (Gone)
2011 Discovery 4 Commercial SDV6 (Gone)
1980 OBLIC 4.0ltr Range Rover (went a long time ago)

If the brakes are less efficient in the heat then there is a problem with the braking system. I live in one of the hottest populated areas of the earth and I just have standard brakes - cheapest rotors and auto shop supplied Bendix pads - no issues at all in 45c temps. 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

When was the brake fluid last changed, LR do advise every three years as previously suggested probably as good a point as any to start as any, relatively easy job to do.

Cheers
Col

RRSTDV8 wrote:

that's what absorbs the energy and gives the braking effect.

Dave B wrote:

I think LR say use DOT4, I use DOT5.1, and a quality brand as well, nothing no ones ever heard of.

Thank you all for your replies to date. Each is appreciated and you've all given me a few things to think about!

Interesting comments around the fluid, especially as to how heat may affect it over time. The brake fluid was changed as part of a service about 18 months ago and the car has done about 10k miles since. I know for sure that DOT4 was used but I don't know if it was the LV.

I have neither the knowledge or tools (or confidence!) to do any of these things myself but as mentioned earlier I'd like to gain some insight from your expertise and experience to get a better idea of possible causes and options.  Barrie.
2017-Jan 2024: 2005 RRS 2.7TDV6. Best car I ever had - until now!
Current: 2018 Ford Ranger Wildtrak 3.2

The brake fluid is given a quite brutal treatment of multiple heat cycling in a heavy vehicle such as the RRS, so changing it every 2 years is a wise choice. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

TheWojtek wrote:

RRSTDV8 wrote:

that's what absorbs the energy and gives the braking effect.

No, sir, there is no energy absorption in braking. Unless you were abruptly braked by a very heavy object, then there will be energy absorbed by the object and the body of the car alike.

Ok, you're pedantically correct. I should have said "that's what converts the kinetic energy of the vehicle in to heat energy and thus gives the braking effect".  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

You have no idea how happy I am to read this  Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

I could have shortened it to "that's what increases the entropy of the system" but that's perhaps a little silly here.  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

So you mean it's not the "energy" exerted from my right foot on to the brake pedal, through the hydraulic system to the caliper, which pushes the piston into contact with the brake pad which creates friction with the brake disc, which in turn slows the vehicle?

Cheers
Col