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dave421



Member Since: 01 Nov 2015
Location: Spalding
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Java Black
Suspension Help Needed ....

Hi All

I need some help with a 2010 RRS Suspension. The car is lower on the left Rear by about 25mm (uk passenger side). The car does not level up when running, when I start the car the pump runs and fills the reservoir to 1750kPa then stops and dumps all the pressure to between 100-200kPa. The pump sometimes cuts out with the fault code (Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir). I have tried another pump but doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. On a diagnostics tool the suspension height on the back tends to be 20-35mm in difference. I have left it over night with the fuse out and the car does not drop. It always stays up just with the difference (20mm ish) between the two back wheels.

This fault showed up when we had the very cold temperatures (below 0) a week or two ago.

Any suggestions ???

TIA.....

Post #629507 Fri Dec 30 2022 6:07pm
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Lrstaylor



Member Since: 10 Mar 2022
Location: Kent
Posts: 344

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Bali Blue

Usually a leak at the tank they rust out, our d3 did exactly the same. Spray with soapy water to check the tank.

Post #629516 Sat Dec 31 2022 12:14am
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dave421



Member Since: 01 Nov 2015
Location: Spalding
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Java Black

HI

Thank you, can I ask did yours pump up then discharged it all at once?

Post #629519 Sat Dec 31 2022 10:48am
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Lrstaylor



Member Since: 10 Mar 2022
Location: Kent
Posts: 344

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Bali Blue

Yeah I think it did, it also wore out the piston and barrel due to the pump running for to long trying to get gallery pressure.
New piston and barrel sorted it along with a replacment air tank.

Have a look here
https://disco3.co.uk/forum/new-suspension-compressor-197388.html

Post #629521 Sat Dec 31 2022 11:58am
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 

Diagnosis is a logical step by step process.

Raise the suspension to the max. Pull suspension fuse, measure the heights of each corner. Wait 5-6 hours min, then re- measure. If any corner has dropped, it’s either that corner’s airbag or air connections leading to that corner. If all connections of a corner test okay, suspect the front or rear valve block. At this point, you have half the job done.

The rest are the common connections of the air pump, air tank and central valve block or those components.

Post #629559 Mon Jan 02 2023 2:12am
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 
Re: Suspension Help Needed ....

dave421 wrote:
Hi All

I need some help with a 2010 RRS Suspension. The car is lower on the left Rear by about 25mm (uk passenger side). The car does not level up when running, when I start the car the pump runs and fills the reservoir to 1750kPa then stops and dumps all the pressure to between 100-200kPa. The pump sometimes cuts out with the fault code (Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir). I have tried another pump but doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. On a diagnostics tool the suspension height on the back tends to be 20-35mm in difference. I have left it over night with the fuse out and the car does not drop. It always stays up just with the difference (20mm ish) between the two back wheels.

This fault showed up when we had the very cold temperatures (below 0) a week or two ago.

Any suggestions ???

TIA.....


……and rubber hardens up in cold weather hence possible air bladder leaks

Post #629560 Mon Jan 02 2023 2:14am
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dave421



Member Since: 01 Nov 2015
Location: Spalding
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Java Black

erickwan wrote:
Diagnosis is a logical step by step process.

Raise the suspension to the max. Pull suspension fuse, measure the heights of each corner. Wait 5-6 hours min, then re- measure. If any corner has dropped, it’s either that corner’s airbag or air connections leading to that corner. If all connections of a corner test okay, suspect the front or rear valve block. At this point, you have half the job done.

The rest are the common connections of the air pump, air tank and central valve block or those components.



HI I did this and it stayed at the height I left it at 24hrs previous (it did not level before the test) ???

Post #629580 Mon Jan 02 2023 7:25pm
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TheWojtek



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Poznań, Poland
Posts: 737

Poland 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Buckingham Blue

Either valve block, then. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

---
WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Post #629586 Mon Jan 02 2023 10:37pm
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dave421



Member Since: 01 Nov 2015
Location: Spalding
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Java Black

Hi

Thanks for the reply, can I ask why when I start the engine the pump builds pressure up from around 200 to 1750 ish the pump stops and instantly dumps all the pressure down to around 200kpa ?

Post #629587 Mon Jan 02 2023 11:37pm
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 

dave421 wrote:
erickwan wrote:
Diagnosis is a logical step by step process.

Raise the suspension to the max. Pull suspension fuse, measure the heights of each corner. Wait 5-6 hours min, then re- measure. If any corner has dropped, it’s either that corner’s airbag or air connections leading to that corner. If all connections of a corner test okay, suspect the front or rear valve block. At this point, you have half the job done.

The rest are the common connections of the air pump, air tank and central valve block or those components.



HI I did this and it stayed at the height I left it at 24hrs previous (it did not level before the test) ???


You now have 2 issues. The rear did not level out, and you have the fault “…filling too slowly”. I assume the suspension freezes and the pump stops running when you flag that error. This is usually due to an air leak in the vicinity of the pump….pump connections, centre valve block connections, reservoir connection, reservoir tank or centre valve block, or else the intake filter to the pump is blocked. Also, do not ignore the gallery pressure sensor which can go bad, albeit rare. And the compressor/pump itself which can progressively weaken over time.

Once you get the pump running successfully, the mismatch in the rear height is a case of re-calibration or you have a bad height sensor, since it’s been tested and there seem to be no leaks in this vicinity.


Last edited by erickwan on Mon Jan 02 2023 11:50pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #629588 Mon Jan 02 2023 11:42pm
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 

dave421 wrote:
Hi

Thanks for the reply, can I ask why when I start the engine the pump builds pressure up from around 200 to 1750 ish the pump stops and instantly dumps all the pressure down to around 200kpa ?


So that when the pump has to start running again, it does not have to work against high pressure at startup.

Post #629589 Mon Jan 02 2023 11:46pm
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dave421



Member Since: 01 Nov 2015
Location: Spalding
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Java Black

👍

Post #629590 Mon Jan 02 2023 11:49pm
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 

I made a few additions to my post above.

Duh! I just woke up after a night of heavy drinking. Sad

Post #629591 Mon Jan 02 2023 11:52pm
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dave421



Member Since: 01 Nov 2015
Location: Spalding
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Java Black

Hi

Thank you, makes total sense 👍



erickwan wrote:
dave421 wrote:
erickwan wrote:
Diagnosis is a logical step by step process.

Raise the suspension to the max. Pull suspension fuse, measure the heights of each corner. Wait 5-6 hours min, then re- measure. If any corner has dropped, it’s either that corner’s airbag or air connections leading to that corner. If all connections of a corner test okay, suspect the front or rear valve block. At this point, you have half the job done.

The rest are the common connections of the air pump, air tank and central valve block or those components.



HI I did this and it stayed at the height I left it at 24hrs previous (it did not level before the test) ???


You now have 2 issues. The rear did not level out, and you have the fault “…filling too slowly”. I assume the suspension freezes and the pump stops running when you flag that error. This is usually due to an air leak in the vicinity of the pump….pump connections, centre valve block connections, reservoir connection, reservoir tank or centre valve block, or else the intake filter to the pump is blocked. Also, do not ignore the gallery pressure sensor which can go bad, albeit rare. And the compressor/pump itself which can progressively weaken over time.

Once you get the pump running successfully, the mismatch in the rear height is a case of re-calibration or you have a bad height sensor, since it’s been tested and there seem to be no leaks in this vicinity.

Post #629592 Mon Jan 02 2023 11:52pm
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 

If you crack the Voss connector to the reservoir and there is no air escaping, then it’s either the reservoir itself that’s leaking or the centre valve block.

The centre valve block has only one function, controlling the air in and out of the reservoir.

Post #629593 Tue Jan 03 2023 12:03am
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