What a day .. Northampton to Peterborough, Peterborough to Peterborough hospital with my Dad, back to their house in Peterborough and then back to Northampton. Stopped at Morrisons five minutes from home and .... she wouldn't start again.

Turns over (quickly) but doesn't even attempt to fire which sounds like no fuel, and I have a complete Christmas tree on the dashboard; everything has failed according to that - adaptive suspension, forward alert, gearbox, etc. You name it, there's a fault.

Plugged in the GAP and IIDtool reports a lot of CANbus communications failures so I'm thinking something electrical and something central?

Passenger footwell is dry so I don't think it's BCM (which is under there, if memory serves?) but any thoughts of common failure points? Would a failed dash cluster cause a no start? BCM? Any other central points to consider?

Thanks folks.. off to beat it with a bush like Basil Fawlty for a bit  2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Well, that's new.. so if I clear the fault codes and try to start it the ignition comes on and then immediately goes off (everything turns off)

Don't clear the fault codes and it just spins on the starter and doesn't catch..

Full list of faults is:
Vehicle scanned on 14 Oct 2021 17:05:32
IIDControl 3.0.0 Build 84 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2691

ABS-Brake Module

U0104-00 (2B) Lost communication with speed control module
( on 14-10-2021 17:03:41 at 185626 km )

U0401-68 (AB) Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module - Algorithm based failure - event information
( on 14-10-2021 17:03:47 at 185626 km )

ACM-Audio System

U0159-00 (2A) Lost communication with parking assist control module
( on 14-10-2021 17:03:21 at 185626 km )

ATCM-Terrain Response

U0139-00 (2F) Lost communication with the suspension control module B
( on 14-10-2021 17:02:30 at 185626 km )

HCMB-Headlamp

U0415-00 (2E) Invalid data received from ABS control module
( on 14-10-2021 17:04:07 at 185626 km )

IPC-Instrument Pack

U0104-00 (2F) Lost communication with speed control module
( on 14-10-2021 17:02:37 at 185626 km )

U0139-08 (2F) Lost communication with the suspension control module B - General failure information - bus signal/message failure
( on 14-10-2021 17:02:37 at 185626 km ) 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Heh, Googling for the fault codes and I found my own thread: https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/post607547.html

Shame I didn't fix it back then, eh? Still.. I've eliminated the battery this time (tried with jump leads and a battery voltage of ~13.5V) so I'm back to a module or wiring failure I think. 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Don't know if this is of any help,, might give you a few options

https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic43485...s+starting 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Cheers for that - I'll check fuel pressures. Bit of a pain as the car isn't actually on the driveway as the closest I could get recovered to was around the corner (narrow road) but never mind

My gut still says electrical fault given the christmas tree of warning lights, but you never know. The battery is out and on charge right now as spinning it over dropped the voltage a bit; drop-tester says the battery is good and it recovers back to 12.4V so a charge for a few hours won't hurt it.

Then I guess I start working through plugs - IIRC all the ones in the battery tray area are common faults due to water ingress so I'll start there assuming my fat fingers can disconnect them. I think the transfer case ECU is also a common fault (same area) though the cover for it is bone dry at the moment.

I'm also still wondering if a failing dash cluster could cause a no-start by interrupting the CANbus? The clocks all still work though I notice the rev counter needle illumination flickers now.. 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Right, a bit of further digging and looking at the wiring diagrams - I have faults on lots of stuff on the CANbus basically all over the place, but interestingly both ABS and instrument cluster which are at either end (they have the terminating resistors) and both known to cause no-start. As is the transfer case module.

Instrument pack thread: https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/post581831.html

Tempted to give that a bash as I have some SMD experience, though I don't know if I want to fight with all the blasted conformal coating! However, all the threads I've found so far are pre facelift cars; do the facelift dashes suffer the same problems? All of the repairers I've found (Revtronic, Totaltronics, Autotronics, Turners) with the exception of ACTronics (https://www.actronics.co.uk/instrument-clusters/land-rover-range-rover-sport-2005-2013) only show 2005-2009 clusters..

Also brake light switches that cause christmas tree lights, but I wasn't clear if they also caused no-start faults: https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic46292.html

Ordered one anyway, just in case. 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

OK, weird.. I kept seeing threads about the transmission control module/terrain response module behind the battery getting waterlogged, so went looking and .. it's not there?

I see the engine ECU (three connectors that I'd call 'BMW style' with the swing latch) which I checked (no corrosion) but nothing in front of it or anything else in there that I can see.. is it on the drivers side instead, maybe? 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

The engine ECU and transmission ECU are piggy backed together in the location behind the battery. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

That's where I thought - is it meant to be in front of or behind the engine ECU? Because I couldn't see anything in front of the engine ECU on my car .. the plastic cover is there but it has a blanking bung on the left cable entry and only two wires going into the right cable entry, and it was mostly empty space behind it from what I could see.. unless it's much farther down (toward the ground) than I expected maybe.

Didn't get chance to look at it properly this weekend as it was my impromptu stag do, so .. emergency car borrowing for the chemo run tomorrow.

Did manage to:
a) break the drivers door handle cover plate thingy (where the lock would be on the passenger side) and
b) get the hump trying to get the under dash trim off to get to the brake switch while it started to get dark outside.. d'oh! (Not the bit that just pops off with the vent in it, but the bit directly above your toes, as my fat hand won't fit through the hole to get at the switch from above/the side)

[edit] Looks like the door handle plastic piece should be CXJ500040LEP. Although mine are black, not grey, I suspect (given the black is coming off!) someone has painted the standard grey ones black; but at least they're cheap!

[Edit edit] Got that plastic trim off - just needed to be braver and yank harder and got the old brake switch off. New one will arrive tomorrow with any luck! 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

New (admittedly pattern part from Advanced Factors) brake switch fitted and .. no change. Not the simple thing, then  2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

I don't suppose anyone can suggest any live values to watch while cranking that might narrow down the problem? I have all the CANbus faults but they're so all over the shop (and they change) that they don't really help; but maybe there's some live data to watch that might help?

I did capture this which (I think) shows that I have good fuel pressure but that the ECU isn't enabling the injectors during cranking:

Click image to enlarge

Battery is really starting to struggle now (11.7V) but that's unsurprising given how many times it's turned the car over in the last few days! Still, ordered a new one (this one is Varta, next one is Enduroline) to give that a shot and if nothing else, it means I can charge the Varta and still have an alarm and central locking (since the car is stuck on the street right now!)

Anyway, having been through a large number of under bonnet connectors with the contact cleaner (including the ECU, ABS module, various loom-to-loom connectors) I thought I'd clear the codes and see what comes back immediately:

Quote:

VIN SALLSAA23AA232847
Model L320 - Range Rover Sport 2010
Vehicle scanned on 20 Oct 2021 18:09:00
IIDControl 3.0.0 Build 84 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2691

ATCM-Terrain Response

U0139-00 (2F) Lost communication with the suspension control module B
( on 20-10-2021 18:07:59 at 185626 km )

BCM-Body Control

U0139-00 (2F) Lost communication with the suspension control module B
( on 20-10-2021 18:08:00 at 185626 km )

IPC-Instrument Pack

U0104-00 (2F) Lost communication with speed control module
( on 20-10-2021 18:08:05 at 185626 km )

U0133-00 (2F) Lost communication with dynamic response module
( on 20-10-2021 18:08:05 at 185626 km )

U0139-08 (2F) Lost communication with the suspension control module B - General failure information - bus signal/message failure
( on 20-10-2021 18:08:05 at 185626 km )

RLM-Suspension

U0133-00 (2F) Lost communication with dynamic response module
( on 20-10-2021 18:08:11 at 185626 km )

New battery arrived but no change, still the same behaviour and same faults.

RRSTDV8 wrote:

The engine ECU and transmission ECU are piggy backed together in the location behind the battery.

There's definitely nothing in the box with the engine ECU:

Click image to enlarge

Unless I'm missing it, I am pretty sure now that it's on the opposite side of the car on the 2010s.. under a cover I couldn't get off (yet).

Click image to enlarge

(That's with the old battery but aside from the "Voltage ignition key on" number going up to 12.6V, nothing changed)

Anyway, again, can anyone with IIDTool (and ideally a TDV8) tell me what the PCCM "battery voltage" reports in the live data? I assumed it would be, well, battery voltage, but mine shows ~5V (while all the other modules report a Control Module Voltage of ~12V) and that seems all kinds of wrong - but it's impossible to google "PCM battery voltage" because all the hits are just about .. the battery voltage

Approaching my wits end with it now :/ unfortunately I can't afford to give the local indy a blank cheque.. 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

I do rather feel like I'm talking to myself now, but anyway ..

Checked all the PCM ECU grounds this afternoon - they all bell out to ~0Ohms so they seem good. The connector might have been a bit green there so it got a fresh round of contact cleaner.

The TCCM is on the drivers side on the 2010, pulling the cover off the ECU beside the ABS pump revealed it (and there was no questioning which ECU I'd found as it's written on it ) but as the connectors are now the other way up there was no green there - that must have been JLRs fix for the oft failing due to water ingress connectors. The only thing in the passenger side e-box is now the PCM ECU and fan.

Checked all the engine bay fuses and the interior fuses I could get to with the probes and they're all OK

Basically brings me back to two questions:

What should the DC/DC converter voltage be reported as by the PCM? (If I try to start the car enough times it will eventually throw a fault code of "DC/DC converter voltage low")
Should a car with adaptive cruise have a Cruise Control ECU visible in IIDControl? Because mine says "Not present" which seems odd for a car with adaptive cruise.. but maybe adaptive cruise comes under something else.

All in all .. it's not looking good for the PCM but I'd really love it if someone could tell me what theirs reads - TDV8, TDV6, SDV6 .. I am guessing they'll all be similar. 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Hope this helps from my TDV8 with the engine running.