Hi all im a newbie, i am planning to sell my estate car and buy a 2008 - 2012 RRS.
Can anyone advise on the best model, spec a d engine to look for
Any help is appreciated
Steve

3.0 diesel v6 HSE is probably the most common, lots of kit, hi/lo range 8spd on 2012 or 6 spd earlier, dynamic anti roll bars, etc. Autobiography even more loaded with kit.

You will need deep pockets. In 5 yrs I am on 3rd alternator, changed both inlet manifolds, front and rear arms, and 2 turbos (£4k alone and body off job), couple of wheel bearings.

On their day there is nothing better. Big bills tho and well under 30mpg on typical town type commute. Long runs at 60 early 30's mpg. I did once thrash mine big time and got an indicated 17mpg .

5.0 petrol supercharged available which is even better for speed etc but heroically expensive in fuel unless driven like a pensioner.

TDV8 is available also with not much fuel penalty against the v6.

You'll need deep pockets and never never miss a service or scrimp on second hand or pattern parts. Generalist garages don't always understand these motors so find and cultivate a good independent specialist. Most JLR dealers have poor reps for cost time and quality.

Thank you so much for the info its a great help
I plan do the change in July Prob going to be a 2010 model
Money side i do understand as already have a Ford Mustang so have to keep on top of things 👍

Here's my experience; I'm 6 years and 60K miles into ownership of my 2005 TDV6, and haven't had any thing more than what I would consider normal wear and tear.

One of the advantages of the LR that is not often spoken about is the number of companies that supply OEM quality parts, at much less than JLR prices. For example Advanced Factors (who are a site sponsor) offer complete OEM suspension struts (air bag and damper) for £200 each. This means that you can maintain your RRS for quite a reasonable costs, particularly if you can do some of it yourself.
Obviously there are some failures that can need deep pockets, but that's the same with any premium car. My colleague has just had to have the engine on his 520D rebuilt, after the timing chain failed. The cost of that made me realise that the grass isn't always greener in German fields. (He had to wait a month for the specialist to do it, as he was so busy with these rebuilds).

So I would say go for it, but search carefully, and get one from someone who has looked after it, and can prove it, rather than something that looks nice on a forecourt, but where the dealer has "mislaid" all the history.

Hopefully i will all cash at the time and will look here first as generally forum members do look after there rrs
Thanks again guys

Hopefully i will all cash at the time and will look here first as generally forum members do look after there rrs
Thanks again guys

Hi and welcome,

engine wise its what suits your needs best as there are + and - for all of them

we went from a 2.7D to the 3.0D and the 8 speed box, 2010 is around the change over from 6 to 8 speed, the 8 is preceived as better and if you go for 2010 I would go for it but the 6 speed is still good and if you go a couple of years older its fine
as long as both of them have had an oil transfusion by now

at ten years old buy on condition and recent receipts (and I always like if it still in use) rather than low miles and few owners

 Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

As members state there are various models engines and specs.
2.7 TDV6 most of the maintenance can be done without lifting the body off
Turbo, alternator, cambelt, EGR valves to mention a few.
if buying 100,000 miler cam belts should be changed at 100,000.
Land Rover state the gearbox oil is for life. The learned people say not 80,000 mile
electric gearbox flush not manual apparently viabration from the gearbox and other things
causes the Crankshaft to snap. People say the 3.6 V8 twin turbo is smoother faster and better
maybe so but a nightmare engine out for most repairs.
Low mileage come at a premium history is essential. As these cars on the used market come at a
very affordable price but as you state they need maintenance.
I know of these vehicles having covered 700,000 miles.
Hope this is of use Steve

If going for a 2010-11 car I personally would go for the TDV8, all the engine had their own possible issues the main one's being the TDV8 can suffer from turbo failure, TDV6 crankshaft/bearing problems and early 5.0L's worn timing chain tensioners. With the TDV8 you don't have timing belt to worry about so bonus, not sure if the TDV8 actualy has the cross over pipe which can fail on the TDV6 and be expensive repair I believe. The TDV8 can suffer from cracked inlet manifolds I think and can be also be expensive. The rest of the car all version seem to suffer same sort of issues with worn suspension bushes, door locks etc. so not probably much difference in choice there. The A/B would be the higher spec. car but it was only re-introduced as a sport in 2010 so might be few and far between in that year. I think the main thing is take your time looking for a well looked after example with a good history, I would prefer a higher mileage one rather than a low mileage one that's just been used to take the "little darling's to school". Apart from servicing and normal stuff like brake discs/pads, batteries, wiper blades etc. mine has had lower front arms, rear door latch, tailgate switch and one front camera and probably a few other odd bits just to keep it up together 7 years now on 72K. As said all personal choice but I think the key is take your time there are plenty of bad ones out there.

Cheers
Col

My 1st RRS was a 2012 and they have a few nice updates like rotary gear selector and electric tailgate, I think they fit these from 2012 but could be wrong. It was also the autobiography model which was very very nice. I have the newer shape RRS and there are certain things I miss from the older shape like 2 glove boxes, been able to fold rear seats flat as the bench seat lifted up where the new shape doesn’t . My2012 also had park heating with a separate fob which was great. My new shape par heating works on an app via phone and can sometimes take a few minutes to even link to the car where with the fob worked straight away .

As COL states TDV8 suffers from turbo failure (sequential turbos) body off circa £2,000 Garrett turbos.
General other problems suspension parts, brakes, should be expected from a 2.5t vehicle. History i think is a
big thing as can save cost in future and indicate what needs changing and when in particular EGR valves 80,000
particle filter etc. Having pointed a lot expensive points i would not deter from s high mileage model. But be prepared

I don’t think we can say one drivetrain is better than the other reliability-wise. Especially at this age, because I think the maintenance/ love shown has a huge effect.

I had a 3.0 TDV6 from new for over 9 years and in that time I would say I was invoiced £3000 in non-consumable repairs and paid an average of £700 a year in routine maintenance. It was a fantastic car that I would still happily own now if I hadn’t gone all-in for a new fatty. (Which by the way is.... certainly worth it).

Before I ordered my TDV6 I test drove a used TDV8 (TDV8 was not sold new in late 2010), but I immediately preferred the TDV6 power delivery. The TDV8 may be better on paper, it may have more power etc, but check which power train matches your driving style.  L405 P400e Autobiography (MY2020)... Silicon Silver / Espresso
RRS TDV6 HSE Lux (MY2011)... Nara Bronze / Arabica - now gone!

Thank so much guys i cant say enough how all the info you have provided has helped. I am prob going to try and change the car before July if possible
Just got to convince wife to do it earlier than planned, shes not a car fan but understands I am and accepts I just want my dream cars 😁
So all being well will have my RRS sitting next to the Mustang soon 👍

Also last thing so glad this forum is as friendly and informative as the MOCGB

If it helps, here's a summary of the major things I've had done on my 2008 TDV8 having owned it for 5 years:

Front anti-roll bar bushed (twice)
Gearbox Flush (twice)
NSF Lower Arm
NSR Wheel bearing
OSF Wheel bearing
Front Diff replacement
OSF Lower Wishbone
Steering Column lower u/j
Alternator
Front brake disk and pads
Rear dampers (2)
NS Headlamp
Wheel nuts
Gas struts bonnet and tailgate

Lol
Somethings just keep costing money but thats life
Has not put me off