Sounds like and episode of Scooby Do, but after procrastinating for about 18 months on whether to add the Dr Tranny lube guard, I finally added it to the box on my MY06 TDV6. The early indications are that it's done the job. Generally much smoother, and no judder up hills or when under load.
I haven't tried it up anything really steep, but in all the usual places that it used to do it, it's very smooth. Even the wife noticed it this morning.

The only reason I added it was because I didn't think a £3K new gearbox was a good idea on a car worth £4K - £5K, if I wasn't going to keep it. However, I still really like my RRS, and having had it nearly 5 years, I've long ago fixed all the things that previous owners should have kept on top of (gearbox excepted). So I thought I've not got anything to loose, if it doesn't work.

Anyhow, I'll give it a bit more time to be certain, then I'll change the air struts, as after 139,000 miles, the ride is a bit crashy now.

Just thought I'd add another recommendation for this stuff.

(BTW, I added it by driving up my ramps on the drivers side, front and rear, to tilt the car over, then with the engine running, nothing comes out of the drain plug, so it's easy to squirt in.)

Last edited by CornishRob on Thu Dec 19 2019 8:47am. Edited 1 time in total

Now there is another method for adding it.

Sounds harder work though.

I've just paid £1,200 for supply and fitting of a new OEM torque converter. The same company quoted £2,100 for a recon box. Some of the best money I've spent on the car - smooth as anything. They are a bit too far from you, though...

Yeah, I did think about just getting a new box, but Mrs Cornish needs a new(er) car (two door soft tops are not easy to get grandhildren in the back!), so thought it would be worth a go

CornishRob wrote:

(BTW, I added it by driving up my ramps on the drivers side, front and rear, to tilt the car over, then with the engine running, nothing comes out of the drain plug, so it's easy to squirt in.)

What a good idea!  Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

it's the level plug on the side, just incase anyone else was thinking of following this

How much do you add? Conflicting info on the Dr Tranny website. Steve

2005 2.7 TDV6 HSE, ongoing project.
1998 Volvo V70 R auto FWD, mothballed future project.
1999 BMW Z3 (owned from new) garage queen.

I bought two tubes, but only added one. This seems to have worked fine.

The big question is how did you drive the RRS to get it on both ramps they are good but that is above and beyond

Did you think about a Megaflush? Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

I added two tubes a few years ago. Curedthe shudder completely.

It came back a bit after having a mega flush, although not often noticable. Revs stay constant when it does judder so don't think its the TC on mine. Might add another tube of Dr Tranny.

Seems really good stuff

Quote:

The big question is how did you drive the RRS to get it on both ramps they are good but that is above and beyond Shocked

Quote:

Did you think about a Megaflush?

Dr Tranny doesn't cure the problem it just helps mask the symptoms. The torque converter lock up clutch will need replacing as it gets contaminated with gunk in the transmission fluid. Obviously if you have a flush after adding the Dr Tranny, you remove the Dr T and the symptom comes back.

The best course of action is to have an early flush (at 50k miles) and then do it again every 50k miles. For those buying second hand RRS, the likelihood is that the early flush isn't done so the first you know about the TC issue is when the symptoms start. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Just put one tube in mine as a precondition, had mine two months it had a slight judder under acceleration when I test drove it and the dealer said he would sort it out. A Land Rover specialist done a fluid change for them and it’s been fine but I want it to stay that way so I popped one tube in (got two tubes so may do another change in the future) it certainly has smoothed the low speed gear changes out markedly though I haven’t driven that far yet. Steve

2005 2.7 TDV6 HSE, ongoing project.
1998 Volvo V70 R auto FWD, mothballed future project.
1999 BMW Z3 (owned from new) garage queen.

RRSTDV8 wrote:

The best course of action is to have an early flush (at 50k miles) and then do it again every 50k miles. For those buying second hand RRS, the likelihood is that the early flush isn't done so the first you know about the TC issue is when the symptoms start.

Wayne is spot on with this advice. Have it done as a part of a preventative maintenance programme before any symptoms appear then at regular 50K intervals Had my Full Fat Megaflushed by Bodsy at 85K. No symptoms before or after. That’s what you want  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975