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Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4413

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged HSE Santorini Black

Front timing belt off.
Starter out
Flywheel locked
Huuuge bar to undo crank pulley bolt
Replace the seal
Huuuge bar to re-tighten crank pulley bolt (which should be replaced every time)

Post #430719 Wed Jul 16 2014 3:23pm
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harrygh60



Member Since: 16 Nov 2011
Location: London
Posts: 395

England 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Fuji White

Thanks Micky, I already knew that, Whistle what i should have asked was is any other parts need to be removed to be able to do that Bow down itisme

Post #430778 Thu Jul 17 2014 7:37am
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Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4413

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged HSE Santorini Black

You asked what had to be removed to get to the crank pulley. Answer is an my previous post Thumbs Up

Post #430784 Thu Jul 17 2014 9:13am
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flack



Member Since: 24 Feb 2013
Location: Preston
Posts: 379

The new Oil pump housings are now different in design not just in being beefed up but also on the front Oil seal seating, as DM correctly quoted a 1mm proud step on the seal for the old type casings. The new casings have two lips now that stop you inserting it to far in to the oil pump housing so it is now knocked in until it's about level or just shy of the casing.

I have changed about 100 plus Oil pump casings now and the first couple I did including my own car the seal leaked after a few days. The seal is a pig to get on correctly so to be sure I bought the LR tool for inserting it and since then I have not had any leak.
The seal is not the best I have come across and the tool for inserting it was a very hard tool to get hold of, but worth it because of the number of members not just on here but also on the D3 forum as well as myself having trouble with this seal leaking.

It has to be inserted gently if no tool, I have just done two MY2008 models and although the casings where of the new design the oil seals where leaking, so even LR cant get it right..

LR recommends no lubrication on the new seal but I am with DM if no tool plenty of oil and take your time fitting it..


Flack Thumbs Up

Post #430818 Thu Jul 17 2014 3:50pm
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erickwan



Member Since: 27 Mar 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 138

Malaysia 

Disco_Mikey wrote:
If you put it in as far as it will go, it will leak, as it partially blocks the drain hole. That's why I asked Wink

It should be approx 1mm proud of the front face of the casing.

They can be a bit fiddly to fit without damaging them. Lots of oil on the inside of the seals, and the shaft, and carefully push it on, making sure the seal is not being folded over as it goes on Thumbs Up


I need to install a front crank seal next week. Just to clarify, the RRS workshop manual stated the seal is 1mm under-flush with the face of the oil pump. I take that to mean that the seal sits deeper than the oil pump face.

To my rudimentary understand of the English language, "proud of" means protruding, "flush" means level, "under flush" means deeper than.

Gotta make sure I get this right first time. Mr. Green

Post #585646 Wed Aug 21 2019 3:22am
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