Hello everyone,

Just brought a non runner and both turbos appear fooled.

Both turbo inlet pipes sucking in when starting so disconnected, engine tried to start but kept cutting out. Air filter hoses expelling air heavily and oil filler too when trying to start.

I was told that (after I purchased) that the previous owner put 60 litres of petrol in and run it till it stopped allegedly. The garage drained the tank and lines and flushed through with diesel.

On the laptop the high pressure pump is over 300 and the fuel pump in the tank is working fine.

I was wondering whether the previous owner concocted the dueling story as he had misfuelling cover to perhaps cover the turbos going down🤔

The engine is trying to start but it appears that the turbos are seized and blowing back through the inlet.

Has anyone got any pointers as what to check next and whether it is worth changing the turbo cartridges first? If so can this be done with the body on ?

If the turbos have both gone what other engine damage is caused given the above symptoms.

Any assistance appreciated

If it was a misfuelling incident, your injectors are likely also shagged and worth looking at. Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

If you have compression blowing out through air filters and oil filler/crankcase compression I think you have more than a mis-fuelling issue more like piston/valve damage. Could start with a cylinder compression test and crankcase breather if there is one. Only a suggestion.

Cheers
Col

Body off for turbo change

See if will run without turbo first.

Disconnect Turbo's from engine. By removing inter-cooler pipes *2 that run into inlet manifold (Top hoses). Turbo will run but not boosting engine. This will the run as a normally aspirated motor but with poor performance (good for idle and testing). If the basic motor is healthy, motor should start at this point, not be noisy, no excessive smoke, etc. If you cannot start or have issues, Turbo are not the cause of your fault.
Currently I am having issues with my R.R.S (see my posts). In the process, I disconnected my Turbo's for diagnoses and it was sounding healthier and running cleaner at that point in time. I had a non starter and smoke issues after Injector failure, then Electrical damage. Not starting will usually be Electrical of Fuel (Fuel delivery (injectors) is usually the main culprit).
After serious work and ECU failure on car, spending $$$$. Car would not start, Land Rover diagnosed a faulty pressure Pump (sensor?), after spending may $$$ fault was not pump but rather faulty Injectors (specifically 1 injector recently replace was leaking). I replaced all injectors (Reco) and car now starts. But alas I have other issues going on.

I've taken both inlet hoses off and it will not run only chugs badly.

Would that mean both turbos are seized stopping exhaust gasses escaping the normal route and blowing back wherever it can?

The intercooler looks like there's loads of oil in it from first inspection.

One more thing, I had to put 4 litres of oil in to get it up to level when I first got it however, theres no signs of any oil leaks from around the engine or underneath

I've taken both inlet hoses off and it will not run only chugs badly.

Would that mean both turbos are seized stopping exhaust gasses escaping the normal route and blowing back wherever it can?

The intercooler looks like there's loads of oil in it from first inspection.

One more thing, I had to put 4 litres of oil in to get it up to level when I first got it however, theres no signs of any oil leaks from around the engine or underneath

Was it a recent purchase from Copart?

Tobias75 wrote:

I've taken both inlet hoses off and it will not run only chugs badly.

What hoses have you taken off. Hoses from the Intake (near Air Filter) or hoses between the inlet manifold and Intercooler?

Would that mean both turbos are seized stopping exhaust gasses escaping the normal route and blowing back wherever it can?

In effect you have take Turbo out if the situation, buy removing the connection (Hose's) Intercooler to Manifold. The Turbo pressure and anything else (Oil) is not getting to the motor. So if fault persists, this part of the issue is not Turbo? Although you may still have faults with the Turbo itself?

The intercooler looks like there's loads of oil in it from first inspection.

This is normal (especially to the uninitiated). But that depends on how much oil. If you had say less than 0.5Liter I would not be concerned. Unless of coarse you had just cleaned it out and this had built up in a short time. IF you had 1.0Liter or more, I would be concerned. This of coarse might effect your running, Oil use and Smoke in the Exhaust. (BLACK SMOKE - partly burnt diesel fuel. WHITE SMOKE - unburnt diesel fuel, BLUE SMOKE - burnt engine oil). If you are using loads of Oil, that could be an engine fault, Bearings, Rings, etc? Also Turbo, which you could find excessive Oil in the Manifold, Pipes, Intercooler. Usually you will get Bluish smoke (even mixed with White smoke).

One more thing, I had to put 4 liters of oil in to get it up to level when I first got it however, there's no signs of any oil leaks from around the engine or underneath

I removed the intake pipes from the intercooler to the inlet manifold as they was both sucking in when cranking.

When I cranked it without them on the engine tried to fire and was very lumpy , although air pressure was blowing out the airflow meter intake pipes.

It would not run on it's own accord.

Wouldn't air blowing out of the air intake system suggest the valves are stuck open? Suggesting broken valves on one bank.

Sounds like an engine fit only for scrap, sadly. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Tobias75 wrote:

I removed the intake pipes from the intercooler to the inlet manifold as they was both sucking in when cranking.

Even at Idle the Turbo are pumping air. Very low boost? If it suck in the hoses, in effect the engine is sucking/ causing a vacuum at this point. The Turbos should be flowing free, as iyt is pumping slightly. This indicated you have a restriction somewhere? =Either Turbos are not pumping, hoses blocked, Air Filter blocked, Inter-cooler blocked.
Connect top hoses & disconnect bottom hoses to inter-cooler and see if the hose suck in? Yes= blocked inter=cooler. No=Turbo issue or Air Filters? While removing lower hoses would be interesting to see if any oil drains from the Inter-cooler (if you are getting lost of Oil & in short build up time (Oil seal in Turbo are suspect).

When I cranked it without them on the engine tried to fire and was very lumpy , although air pressure was blowing out the airflow meter intake pipes.

Air Flow meter, you mean M.A.F meter?at air filter? At I/P you have Filter, then ducting with M.A.F (2 pipes), the 2 separate Turbos, then intermediate ducts - that run to lower Inter-cooler. At the Air filter, the Turbo will cause suction. At the Intermediate ducting to Inter-cooler lower will have pressure. Ir Turbo are good, or Faulty, as long as they are turning you will get some suction or pressure at appropriate spots.
Engine running with pipes disconnected is a good sign. The Engine is running! But being lumpy can be a number of things. You could have mechanical issue in a cylinder. You could have an electrical issue? You could have a fueling issue. A simple indicator of health for the engine, is to do a compression test. These are 17:1 compression. That equated about 250PSI (although it will probly be lower?). IF all even9ish) and say well above 210 PSI, motor should run reasonable (best place to do Compression test is through GLOW PLUG holes) or through injector holes, will require new seals and potentially new H.P Lines.
Electrical, good luck. Potentially many things can go wrong and many places to start and knollage required. Best place to start id OBD2 Port (diagnostic Port), scan for errors. particularly in PCM.
Fueling can be fuel blockage, Fuel Pressure (hence fuel pump), Injector fault, blocked Fuel Filter, etc. Most likly is Injectors and I would say this is the most likly cause or bad or non running engines. Again best sart point it to, through diagnostic Port, scan for errors. Error codes may not give exact cause but will report of area effected. This may not be cause but rather a symptom. Then the search begins. Check the measure Air Flow (M.A.F readings), check Fuel Trim (correction of Fuel Flow at low engine speeds).

It would not run on it's own accord.

How about something like turbo's blew, disintegrated and dumped bits into the intake system which in turn got sucked into the engine and
damaged some valves and pistons etc. or fed engine with oil , caused hydraulic lock which bent a conrod = one f****d engine.

Cheers
Col

I was wondering if the engine had run on its own oil (hence empty and knackered)

Also back to your fist post. Fuel Pressure at 300?, this should be in the region of 10000 Plus, dependent on engine speed. 300 sounds like a fueling problem (Among other issues). Sounds like a leaking Fuel Injector. Dropping Rail pressure, not allowing all injectors to operate correctly.