The block with the compressor connects the pump to the reservoir and both to the front and rear blocks. It doesn't control any corners. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

I have squirted soapy water on the rear pipe work, connections, valve block and even dropped the rubber gaiter on the strut but still couldn’t see any bubbles. The compressor is now off whilst I do the refurb, suspect it will a visit to the local indy when reassembled...

Update, the compressor has been rebuilt, all wheels measured from their centres to wheel arch’s and fuse 3 and 26 removed. Will see what happens over night ?

These were the heights from the wheel centre to the wheel arch when parked up last night with fuse 3 and 26 removed:- osf, osr and nsf were all 42cm from the wheel arch, nsr was 41cm.

This morning osf 39cm (-3cm) osr 35 cm (-7cm), nsf 36cm (-6cm) and nsr 30 cm (-11cm) I wasn’t expecting movement in all corners, would a leaking nsr strut cause this movement?

I wonder if its the white stuff in the system, that is preventing the seals from working?

I guess you may as well replace the seals in the middle block.

If you have an air line you could blow out the pipe to the front.

AT least you know you have done all you can then

Hi
When I got the dryer open it had already been rebuilt at some stage as the desiccant was the after market beads etc so very little sign of white powder in there.

What effect should uncoupling the plug to the rear valve block have, would the valves default to closed ?

yeah they should default to closed.


in theory should be the same as fuse removal, worth a go though.
It will generate fault codes, removing the fuse may prevent this.

probably best to leave fuse 3 in. (anyone else reading).
The ecu uses this to know if the compressor is on or off. (checks relay/fuse ok)

I rebuilt the middle valve block last night, removed the fuses and unplugged the Rear valve block plug. This morning both rear wheels are still down, the osr tyre is level with the arch and the nsr is even worse. Looks like both struts, is there a way to test them ?

The airbags are pretty robust and seldom leak. To have both leak is an amazingly unlucky coincidence. I'd still suspect the valve block or their Voss connectors. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Note.

It is possible for air to leak out the valve electrical connector! (the 3 tiny valve seals are responcable for this).
Just to add another factor into your experement, when your removed the electrical connector it could be more prone to leakage.

Quick update, I have replaced the air tank (new), the rear valve block (new), rebuilt the middle and front valve blocks and the compressor/air dryer. The suspension still dropped so I took it into the local Indy who could only find a leak on the compressor, so today I have fitted a new compressor and 3 hours later it’s sinking again !
Time to give up ?

You could remove the 20A fuse from under the bonnet, and see what happens overnight. (i.e if it still sinks, or only one corner sinks)

Don't know if you did this to start with, but worth repeating with all the newly fitted parts



e.g
run engine and ensure normal high obtained.
turn off engine and remove fuse within a few minutes
measure between wheel center and arch lip on rear if you want to be scientific.
leave over night
inspect in the morning and remeasure where applicable

Just to update, I had the car into a LR specialist who found an air leak coming from the top nut thread on the n/s/r strut. This strut has now been replaced (although both rears already looked like new) and it seems to have cured the rear end problem at last.
However i have now realised that if the car is left parked for several days the whole car drops equally on all corners !
I have raised the suspension, removed all fuses/relay relating to the suspension and after a few days it appears it’s the front dropping now, next stop new front valve block!