i use Mc Guard lock nuts for all my cars. no problems at all! They are solid.
It is pivital to fasten all your wheel nuts with a torque wrench (140 Nm).
Some workshops including JLR dealerships use powertools (air guns) resulting in crazy torque settings
As of then, you will never be able to remove your wheel (and lock) nuts in a normal way.
And - in case of a flat tire- be left on the side of the road. RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux
RRS 3.0 TDV6 gone
LR 3 HSE V8 gone
DiscoveryII V8 Gone
Discovery 1 V8 Gone
Mustang Shelby
Alfa Guilia (classic)

Tyrefitter wrote:

I’ve got the dynamec one & it is good but won’t remove them if they are too tight.

Hog wrote:

i use Mc Guard lock nuts for all my cars. no problems at all! They are solid.
It is pivital to fasten all your wheel nuts with a torque wrench (140 Nm)...

Odd, my handbook specifies 133Nm, but the workshop manual says 140Nm

"With all of the wheels on the ground and
the jack removed, fully tighten the wheel
nuts. The wheel nuts must be tightened in
sequence (see illustration) to the correct
torque of 133 Nm (98 lb.ft)"


So what is the correct one to use?  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Our friends at Powerful UK have recently posted this video which may help

 Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
Jaguar S-Type V8 4.2 Sport
MGZTT 190 2.5