Could i also receive the details as I have tried to wire my Blackvue F770 but it cuts out when the stop start cuts in and then has to re-boot, lots of lost time when in traffic. Also I could not fit the rear camera as I could not work out how to remove the trim around the inside of the tailgate.
Many thanks

The installer I used (near Brighton, Sussex) also found it very difficult to know how to get the wire for the rear camera (Lukas Qvia AR970) from within the roof space to the rear window. Eventually they found that, due to the tailgate being effectively a one piece plastic moulding they had to remove the rear roof spoiler (the bit with the shark aerial on it), and then feed the wire up through one of the two large rubber conduit tubes and then down in to the top of the tailgate. They had to drill one hole in to the window surround, but I am happy with the result. The attached photo (very poor lighting) is when the tailgate is open & up, looking from the rear towards the front of the car. The tailgate is the top 2/3rds of the picture, with the inside top of the rear window at the top of the image.

The surface mounted wire in the photo looks bad, but in reality you hardly notice it.

As for the rebooting during stop/start, that is strange, as even when the engine stops the ignition is still on.

Hope that helps,

hafman

My installer had no trouble getting the wire over to the bootlid – I didn't watch him but it didn't take long and he definitely didn't remove any trim or use his drill and it's very unobtrusive.

RR Ally: he's in Suffolk if you want his details.

Humbug wrote:

Had the latest Blackvue fitted professionally front and rear in the summer. All looks good and neat – he didn't seem to have any trouble threading the wire through to the boot. When the boot is closed you only see the inch of wire to the connection which would be visible however the cable was run.

To ensure it’s not too obvious from both inside and out he did fit camera back from glass, attaching to the front of plastic panel across top of boot. This does mean some of the field of view is lost but clarity still perfect and makes the camera completely unobtrusive.

Thanks everyone,
This is certainly a topic that has a lot of posts, I will re look at the fuse the installer took the supply from. I think he installed some sort of electronic box that only had a permanent live feed that then created an ign off signal by a drop in voltage. I need to look further into this,

I have just hardwired in a Thinkware X550.

I have the front cam only so fitted the camera to the screen on the passenger side behind the rear view mirror.

I ran the cable behind the headlining and down the A Pillar behind the trim and into the rear of the glove box. This was the hardest bit as getting it from the pillar into the rear of the glovebox is a tight fit for the fuse holders moulded into the Thinkware cable (although I did find they could be removed AFTER I struggled)

There is a fuse box behind the glovebox, the glovebox drops down by releasing the retainers either side.

Used Micro2 ATR piggyback fuse connectors and simply connected into the existing fusing. I picked up an earth of a screw head although the screw was a splined drive fitting which I happened to already have although anyone without this will struggle to find an earth. There may be one on the fuse box somewhere but I didn't search very hard. With the piggybacks in place the fuse box cover does not fit in place but I don't think this is an issue. 2016 RRS 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography Dynamic in Montalcino Red and Stealth Kit

fkarim wrote:

I have a a Blackvue DR500GW HD single camera system with Power Magic hardwiring kit. Due to Power Magic, the camera always stays on when the engine is running and also when turned off (Parking Mode) until battery voltage drops below the specified threshold (only 11.8V & 12V are important as the other 2 higher values are for 24V batteries) OR a set number of hours elapses (24, 48 or 72). Whichever happens first makes Power Magic shut down supply to the camera. I have used it in my last 2 Sports and now fitted the same unit to the new one (I should really upgrade to a 2 channel/camera system!).

I will focus on RRS specific stuff as the camera and power saver come with their own instructions. Also, newer camera models may be different. Not everyone will be interested specifically in Blackvue anyway.

Some of the pictures are of bad quality due to brightness or phone camera losing focus. I only checked the photos at the end and didn't have a chance to retake. Apologies for that.

1. Turn the car off before doing any electrical stuff obviously.

2. Pull the right hand side boot trim by grabbing around the areas marked in the picture below. There are no special points to grip but it came off fairly easily for me:


3. You will then see the luggage compartment fusebox:

4. There is a fuse label/chart tucked in a thin slot under the fuse box. Take it out for reference. There is a fuse reference in the handbook as well but past experience of inaccurate/obsolete fuse listings means I don't trust the manual.


5. Power Magic requires a switched live and a permanent live connector. I chose the 15A Fuse 44 (wiper symbol on the chart) for switched and the 15A Fuse 54 (trailer symbol on the chart) for permanent. The red Power Magic wire goes to switched and yellow goes to permanent. I peeled the insulation off the respective wires, took the above fuses out, connected the wires directly to the fuses as below and inserted the fuses back in their slots.


Note: The above way to connect wires and fuses is a "hack" at best. In my previous Sports I used the below fuse piggyback connectors.

Power Magic wire goes in the connector and crimped for a reliable joint. Fuse is taken out of the fuse box slot and inserted in the piggyback connector, along with another fuse in the connector. The connector is then fitted in the fuse box slot. Hence 2 fuses use the same slot: one for the original circuit and one for power saver. I only had mini blade fuses and piggyback connectors but the fuses in this car are a different size. They are not mini or even micro. They look closer to mini fuses but the blades (legs) are wider and I couldn't use my connectors here. Googling afterwards suggested they may be "micro2" but could someone in the know please confirm that's what RRS2 uses? Once I know what size fuses these are, I will try to get some spare fuses and piggyback connectors and revisit.

6. The black wire from Power Magic is for earth/neutral and comes with a fork connector at the end. I loosened the below bolt slightly (which already had another earth wire), inserted the fork terminal of the black wire and re-tightened the bolt.


7. Plugged the white Power Magic plug in Power Magic. Plugged the cigar lighter type plug of the camera power cable in the cigar lighter type socket connected to Power Magic. Tucked the power saver and cigar lighter plug/socket in places where they can't move. Could have taped them too but that only occurred to me when I had finished and packed up.

...

You're welcome. Glad it helped  Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

Finally gotaround to installing the front camera of the Blackvue 650. Therear camera will be for a ither day.
Thanks for the write up.
Only negative was that my car had no fuse ‘map’ in the rear compartment and naturally the fuse numbers didn’t tally up with your diagram.

Cheers 2019 RRS P400e Autobiography
2014 RRS 3.0 TDV6 HSE Dynamic
2006 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSe
Alfa Romeo Guillietta 2.0 JTDM 2011
Mazda 3 1.6 2010
Subaru Impreza 2.0 WRX 2005

Has anyone managed to wire their dash cam into the fuse box behind the glove box,in the l494,their must be a constant live & ignition live in there somewhere.

Andy Andy.
21 Ford Ranger
Gone but not forgotten
Focus RS Red Edition
2015 RRS AB Fuji.
2014 RRS SC Santorini
2016 VW Amarok
2014 RRS AB Fuji
2012 RRS Red Edition Fuji
2015 Nissan Navara
2012 RRS SE Santorini
2008 RRS White
2007 RRS Santorino

That was my first plan, to have it all in the glove box instead of routing one cable from the boot to the windscreen and then the rear cameras cable from windscreen to tailgate. However the space to work with on the glove box fuses is quite tight. and there's no real place to store all the gubbins that come with the Power Pro Magic. - they can of course go in the glove box but it requires a bit of drilling or cutting to get the wires neatly through.
The rear fuse box compartment had oodles of space for it all. 2019 RRS P400e Autobiography
2014 RRS 3.0 TDV6 HSE Dynamic
2006 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSe
Alfa Romeo Guillietta 2.0 JTDM 2011
Mazda 3 1.6 2010
Subaru Impreza 2.0 WRX 2005

I'm wiring in one at the moment, and this is what I have mapped out on the passenger compartment fuse panel behind the glove box on my 2016 TDV8
Fuse 1 is the assessory socket in the cup holder next to the gear stick.
Fuse 2 and 3 are unused (see below) on my tdv8 but mimic the voltage availability pattern on fuse 1. That is on with ignition, stays on for approx 10 mins extra then off.
Fuse 19 is hot all the time
Fuse 50 hot all the time
Fuse 51 is hot when dashboard is on that is when ignition off, it goes off too, wirh no delay to off like F1,2,3.

also like others in the thread found, the cover will on fit on the upper fuses with a piggy back fuse carrier, so I used a 8mm blue crimp open end crimp terminal - the blades are same thickess and pitch as the mini fuses, and used an UNUSED (F3) fuse position these have a plastic blanking insert (as there is no wire on the other side) but has a slot on the side that the fuse would normally protect, and I put an inline fuse to my smart supply box.The cover will fit with the wire routed correctly.

For those of you that have completed your own dash cam installation, what do you make of this installation? Looks pretty good to me?

https://www.dashwitness.com/blog/range-rov...tallation/

Does anyone have any experience of this company? Installation costs look quite reasonable but as with most things it would depend on the quality of the engineer you get on the day.

I had my Thinkware professionally fitted and asked if the rear camera could be fitted at the bottom of the screen rather than the usual top position. This is because the top area is more affected by the area not wiped and I didn't want it offset nor visible in my rear view mirror. So it was fitted in the middle of the bottom of the screen and gives great coverage and very unobtrusive (cant see it through rear view mirror). The only visible wiring is a couple of inches from the camera to the plastic trim round the base of the window. The fitter has managed to hide all the wiring and fed it through existing trunking into roof trim so no looped wiring at the top of the boot lid. A very neat job.
The only downside is that when it rains water drips of the rear spoiler and runs down the screen and this is enough to trigger the motion detector setting in parking mode.

jd2uk wrote:

For those of you that have completed your own dash cam installation, what do you make of this installation? Looks pretty good to me?

https://www.dashwitness.com/blog/range-rov...tallation/

Does anyone have any experience of this company?