Hog wrote:

I did not mean the amps , but the high volts. The recon mode is triggering gassing. And even CTEK warns to do this not more than once a year. with AGM batteries. So there seem to be some truth in the concerns of some other experts.

Paulo, I contacted CTEK & asked if I should be using Car+amg+recon & it appears that I was wrong but as stated I have not had any problems, but I now have an answer from a real "expert" not a pretend one. Below is the reply to my email
HI!

FIRST: Check if your AGM battery manufacturer recommend s 14.7V for charging.
If, so then you can use CAR+ AGM
If the recommendation is 14,4V (normal) hen use only CAR for charging.

So, choose CAR or CAR+AGM
not recond.

Recond program is developed only for flooded batteries, to remix the flooded acid inside.
The remixing/balancing is necessary to treat an already stratified battery, or to prevent severe stratification.
AGM or GEL batteries are not flooded, and therefore does not suffer from stratification. That means Recond will not help AGM or GEL.
Furthermore, an AGM battery contains less acid than a flooded battery, and the gassing can cause battery drying. That is why we cannot recommend recond program on AGM batteries at all.
For GEL batteries, recond is not recommended either, due to that using too high voltage can dry the gel inside the battery and weaken the battery instead of empowering it.
NOTE:
When you choose Recond program, you should note that Recond program always starts with a normal battery charging program. Then, after battery has reached fully charged, Recond treatment itself is implemented. Depending of charger model and battery size, Recond step lasts from ½ to 4 hours, on top of the charging time.
When charger turns to green light, the program is completed.

I will explain here more about the topic:
So, Recond is made for remixing flooded acid inside the battery– hence, stratified batteries.
What is stratification?
Stratification is when the acid inside the battery gets layered.
As long as the acid and the water of the electrolyte in the battery are well mixed, the battery works as it should. But if the acid and water separate into layers, the battery just cannot be charged anymore regarding the parts that are layered, not by the alternator, nor by a charger.
So, acid that gets layered inside a battery causes loss of capacity.
WHY does the batteries get stratified?
Stratification can happen if the alternator charging voltage is too low or the charging time is insufficient (due to short drives for instance, or a lot of parallel loads during drive). Or if a battery is deeply discharged and unused for a period. Different batteries suffer more or less of stratification, depending of the battery type and qualifications.
Why is stratification a problem?
A stratified battery cannot store voltage as well as a healthy battery, and behaves as a smaller battery than it is. When conventionally charged - by the charger or the alternator- only the parts that still are ok, will be charged. So, a battery seems to be fully charged – but can be emptied by one start attempt. Stratification also promotes corrosion on the upper half of the plates and sulphation problems at the bottom.
Why does recond help?
Recond causes a controlled gassing that remixes the acid and equalizes the acid balance and through that the battery capacity is reclaimed and battery efficiency is restored, partially or almost all of it, depending how severe the problem is.

Just one more thing: Do not mix Stratification with Sulphation problems! Sulphation affects all kind of lead/acid batteries AND every CTEK charging program starts with a desulphation step, so you do not have to worry about that!!

Hope this was helpful
Best regards,
CTEK SUPPORT TEAM

Nice one... Still odd, that they have an AGM Recond mode but advise not to use it.

Anyway, whom is going to check what our battery manufacturer recommends?  2022 P440e AB

Exactly, who knows Anyway I have now changed mine over to Car+AGM
As I said before mine have been sitting with recon for months with no problems. Recon is for flooded batteries but as AGM are not flooded it will not help, but wont cause any damage
Do you use a comfort connector with 3 leds showing if its needs charged or not. I have one permanently fitted which hides under the panel above the number plate panel. Its really handy as you dont have to lift the bonnet to connect the CTEK.
I used eyelet terminals fitted to the charging studs under the bonnet & as they are not threaded studs I secured the eyelets using 7-9mm jubilee clips which I bought from ebay. Can send pics if required

Txs for clearing this up Lindab. I was at the point of reacting to Paul that JLR even don't recomment AGM charging.
So better use normal setting for a maximum lifespan.
This seems to be in line with CTEK's remarks. RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux
RRS 3.0 TDV6 gone
LR 3 HSE V8 gone
DiscoveryII V8 Gone
Discovery 1 V8 Gone
Mustang Shelby
Alfa Guilia (classic)

Lindab wrote:

Do you use a comfort connector with 3 leds showing if its needs charged or not. I have one permanently fitted which hides under the panel above the number plate panel. Its really handy as you dont have to lift the bonnet to connect the CTEK.

Yes thanks for clearing this up

I also use the comfort connector with LED's which is extremely handy, but I've noticed that in cold weather that even though the charger is showing green so has complete it's charge, the LED indicator changes to amber pretty soon after disconnecting - do you find this? I'm aware of temperature effects on batteries, but I'm thinking that comfort connector green LED must be set for a fairly high voltage. I normally find it indicating red unless having just switched off the engine.
I also have the CTEK Analyser but have not yet tested the RRS battery, it needs direct battery terminal connection so I've been avoiding disconnecting it from the RRS, but it's a reasonably new battery so I expect it to show good results (I'm guessing it must work by measuring battery internal resistance then using the battery value you input to do it's calculation, so unless direct clamp connections it usually shows a bad result).

Dennis 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Dennis, https://smartercharger.com/faq
This was taken from the above site. This is what happens to mine also. The best indicator is when the battery is at rest

The CTEK Comfort Indicator is what the name says: an Indicator. It provides a snap-shot of the system voltage and works best when the battery is at rest. The voltage drops down when a door opens or the lights is turned on and accordingly the indicator LED’s could change status from green to yellow and sometimes even to red. This is normal and nothing to worry about. The Comfort Indicator is working correctly, but can’t take into consideration these external activities. This should be seen as an additional benefit. The Comfort Indicator could alert that there’s some unexpected current drainage.
Hope this helps

Hi all , I’ve bought a 2014 discovery 4 as a run around, the rrs is getting used even less now , I’ve got my eye on a ctek 7.0 am I right in thinking it won’t be any good plugged into the cigar lighter , I will have to connect to the terminals under the bonnet.
Then I just press mode to get it to normal and it will work it’s magic .
Thanks

Part 2 . How are you guys connecting to the poles/spiked terminals on the car . I was hoping they would be threaded so a couple of nuts would do the trick with the ctek eyes rather than the crocodile clips.
Thanks and hopefully someone will answer.

Fletcher, See my post above. Put the eyelets on, fit jubilee clips holding them down hard on eyelets as you tighten them. They have nuts to tighten not worm drive. You will have to cut a bit out of the plastic cover on positive side to clear eylet. Stanley knife is fine

Thanks, I spend a lot of my time in “man mode” the state of mind where I cannot read, count or talk. Just need to be told stuff. 👍

Hi, my RRS sits unused during the week and so I am going to get a MXS5. I am aware that there are two batteries in the boot. If I connect directly to the main battery under the spare and leave it on charge will that keep the second smaller battery charged too or do I need to swap it over to the smaller one now and again?
Thanks in advance
Rob

Though I charge the front bonnet battery, I believe that the both are charged in series.
- the same perhaps for the boot (rear) battery. 2022 P440e AB

Update post AGM Recon

Mid Feb I went on holiday. Did an AGM Recon (with batteries connected to car electronics). Then left in battery charge / maintenance mode for 7 days.

Upshot is - that the battery now retains a greater charge from the cars alternator than ever (at least a as measured by me over the last year). Typically and especially in cold weather and short trips; batter charge simply fell to sub 50% after a few days. In the last month, it’s dipped to 65% once but charged quite quickly.

I have the timed FBH off now as it really consumes a lot of power.

Click image to enlarge