Hi ladies & Gentlemen,

RRSport sc 2006 LPG conversion 92500 mls

I have a transmission problem:-

Ignition on in park P on LCD display
Move to reverse D on LCD display

fault messages:
TRANSMISSION FAULT - LIMITED GEARS AVAILABLE
SUSPENSION FAULT - VEHICLE LEANS WHEN CORNERING
PARK BRAKE FAULT - NOT FUNCTIONING
HDC FAULT - SYSTEM NOT AVAILABLE

selecting N or D shown D on the LED display

ODB11 messaged:

Transmission-
P0705 Transmission range sensor 'A' circuit PRNDL input

Transfer case-
U0101 Lost Communication with TCM. Missing message

Park brake -
U0101 Lost Communication with TCM. Missing message

ABS/DSC-
U0402 Invalid data received from Transmission Control Module . Event

The car drives, park brake works ok but it seems to stay in 3rd gear. If i select P it locks in P and cannot be moved

I've reset the DTC's and as long as i stay in N or D the car run ok (gear change, auto and sport) LCD shows N or D what ever its selected, but as soon as i select R, the above faults come up and D shows on the LCD.

I've checked the TCM connections for water ingress and they are all ok, but the unit did seem hot. I've replaced the selector assembly but the fault persisted.

I've been to my local LR franchise and they were about as useful as a chocolate teapot, suggested gearbox failing, but other than that, had no idea and wished me luck with sorting it out.

I'm wondering, if this may have something to do with a "swimming pool" i had in the passenger foot well, a couple of months ago, after that the drivers mirrors and memory seat not working.

Help or and ideas would be appreciated as this is getting very frustrating.

Regards

Simms

Last edited by Simms on Wed Aug 23 2017 8:32am. Edited 2 times in total

Have you checked the battery is ok are you still on the battery also it could be your xy sensor or steering angle sensor

Have you checked all the usual suspects; battery (as already suggested), brake light switch, brake light bulbs?

You mentioned checking the TCM but presumably that was actually the TCCM since the TCM is inside the gearbox.

Water in the loom in passenger side footwell area is a known cause of faults so definitely a good idea to strip out dry thoroughly and inspect for corroded splices.

There seems to a lot of faults with modules not receiving messages from the TCM which suggests a wiring problem at the TCM end so I would inspect these as far as is possible. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Thanks Paddi & Geoffsnook,

Yes, sorry the TCCM

i've Checked the battery, seems ok, down to 11.7v overnight and 12.5v after charging with alternator output between 13.6v and 14.3v.

Is there a connector for the TCM, on the gearbox? where is the steering angle sensor?

I've not checked the brake switch and bulbs

As you say, i think i need to check the central fuse box area for corrosion on the ground points and connectors.

I dont think its the gear box, as it runs smooth after reset in neutral.

Thanks guys.

Simms

Simms wrote:

The car drives, park brake works ok but it seems to stay in 3rd gear. If i select P it locks in P and cannot be moved

Don't know if this is any help:
http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...0guide.pdf 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Hi RRSTDV8,

Thank you for the info. Its a good starting point, alone with the other guys info.

Kind regards

Simms

Simms wrote:

I've Checked the battery, seems ok, down to 11.7v overnight and 12.5v after charging with alternator output between 13.6v and 14.3v.

Is there a connector for the TCM, on the gearbox? where is the steering angle sensor?

I've not checked the brake switch and bulbs

11.7 volts is very low - try fitting a new battery as this may be the cause.
Memory is a bit hazy but I think there is a connector plug to the gearbox and some earthing points to clean up. You just have to remove the plastic undertray to gain access.

The steering angle sensor is attached to the steering column but you don't need to touch it - just have someone with the correct diagnostic kit to calibrate it.

Brake light switch and bulbs are inexpensive and an easy DIY; There are guides on the procedures if you search this site and the Disco 3 site.

Edit: Just discovered that your location is Bedfordshire so you are quite close to Landers Garage in Houghton Regis. They are a Land Rover independent specialist. Unlike most garages they are friendly, helpful, extremely knowledgeable and don't try to rip you off. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Cheers Paddi,

I'm not far from Houghton Regis. I'm on shift for the next few days so i'll get in contact with them when i'm off.

Well, after four days on shift, 10 mls A roads (50-60mph) one way.

Reset the DTC's on the first day and as long as i moved the shift lever slowly, it all worked ok, PRND. The final day i went and fuelled up (LPG 20mls). after the quick run to the garage, all the faults returned. Reset the DTC's (in N) and she drives in D and Sports shift ok, got home, select R and its all back again. Seem like when the box is drived fast ( warms up) selecting R or P puts it into E code

Paddi, i went to Landers yesterday and according to there diagnostic P0601 came up,(not seen it on my Hawkeye Total). He says it more-than-likely a faulty Mecktronics unit (i hope not).

Is this possible, as she drives well, when the gearbox is cool-ish.
I am experiencing the "thump" ( 1 to 2 at low speeds) so i'm wondering if a gearbox flush and a gearbox software flash is worth a shot.

Simms

It's a shot in the dark but have you tried resetting the gearbox adaptions/updating the software ?

EDIT:- If the mechatronic unit has gone, then it might be worth fitting a reconditioned box and torque converter at the same time (granted it will cost more but with the age of the vehicle it wouldn't be wasted money if you intend to keep it).

Hi Socast,

Thank you for the advice, I have reset the adaptor, with my hawkeye but i've not checked if the software is up-to-date yet.

I'm a multi-skilled maintenance engineer, what i cant understand is that she runs fine, when the box is "cool" and "fails" when it's "hot". I've always found that when something fails, it fails.

Landers suggested that the magnet, for the Hall Effect Switching could be contaminated with metal debris, giving wrong selected position indication, but this would happen any time, not just when it's hot.

This is what is leading to think it could be fluid levels. Also the fact that if i reset the DCT's in N she runs fine.

She's a long term car, so recon box would be my option.

Simms

When the box is hot the oil is thinner and the valve block itself will also expand slightly, however not all components will expand at the same rate or to the same degree, so with age related wear, heat expansion and heat thinned/degraded oil; tolerances aren't as close as they should be hence the issues you're seeing.

When the box is cold the reverse applies, slightly thicker oil and tighter tolerances.

TBH I would think that the age related wear and degraded oil are the problem. Getting the gearbox flushed may well fix the issue, but for how long ?

You could try buying one of the kits that allow you to change the oil (comes with new sump etc.), granted this won't be effective as a flush, but it will be cheaper and if it works will buy you some time to save for a new/recon gearbox (get the torque converter done at the same time).

Hi Socast,

I understand.

If i can find a "temporary" fix, it will give me the breathing space to raise the funds. I do agree that a recon box will be needed. Never had these problems with my old P38 "tougher box"

I'll keep you all posted on my progress.

Simms

Certainly a good idea to go along with the gearbox fluid flush. Considering that doing it yourself by dropping the sump is a major and messy PIA fraught with all sorts of difficulties (it is a struggle to get the sump off because the cross member is in the way; need to change the loom connection sleeve; need a IR temp probe to check gearbox temp when filling with engine running etc.) I'd recommend you look into having it flushed the non-invasive way by somewhere with the special equipment. The nearest to us is JGS 4x4 a site sponsor. Not used by me but a few forum members have given very positive feedback.

Updating (flashing) the software for the gearbox and resetting the adaptations is always recommended as a first step by transmission specialists when you go to them with any faults so have that done too.

If it is of any interest I had an issue with my transmission that was sort of temperature related in that it only occurred after full operating temperature was reached. Up until this point the gearbox uses a different strategy so it makes sense that a fault could have this characteristic. After trying all the usual fixes (and some others!) I used a IID tool to monitor live values of temperatures and found the temp sensor on the gearbox mechatronic TCM board looked as if it was doing odd things just as the fault occurred. This temp sensor cannot generate fault codes so live monitoring was the only way to check. Changing the mechatronic proved to be the fix eventually. This was carried out by Bristol Transmissions.

There are a few other things that I learned along the way that might help to guide you:
Don't be talked into doing the 'metal sump conversion' it saves the garages time but it is more difficult to get the gasket to seal and tends to leak - stick to the OE plastic sump which is superior for sealing.
If you need a new mechatronic obviously brand new ones are very expensive but a specialist can if you are lucky, fit a good used one after overhauling the valve body part with a kit that ZF make available. If you can't find a specialist with a spare mechatronic then try Beds Automatic Transmissions
http://www.automaticgearbox.biz/ they tend to keep a stock of repaired mechatronics. HOWEVER I have to say I wouldn't get them to fit it for you as my experience with their mechanics was not good - broken/lost bolts and a leaking gasket. It seems the guy who fixes and tests the units is good but may be let down by his spanner monkeys.

As a few final notes - I'm still concerned about that very low 11.2 volts you said the battery was showing the morning after a charge. It would be cheap and easy to fit a new battery especially if you buy it online from eBay or Tayna batteries. As a maintenance engineer I'm sure you'll be aware that low voltage can cause electronics to stop working properly.
And did you check the brake light bulbs and change the pedal switch? - both well known to cause issues because the brakes are connected to the CAN bus and affect many systems including the transmission.

Good luck - I hope you get it sorted. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE