Can anyone that owns a iid tool confirm if you can calibrate the suspension on your RRS as my rear suspension seems a little higher than the front so think it needs recalibrating so was thinking of buying the tool for this purpose and more?

If not then can you recommend an indie in the Birmingham or West Midlands area that will be able to sort out  RRS SUPERCHARGED, 22 INCH ALLOYS, JAVA BLACK, FULLY COLOUR CODED
EVERY POSSIBLE SOFTWARE UPDATE INCLUDING - BLUTOOTH UPDATE, SATNAV ON THE MOVE, CLOCK ON DASH, 3 CLICK FLASH, GEARBOX RESET, COMPRESSOR UPDATE AND SUSPENSION LOWERED,
BLACK CODE RE-MAPPED, AUTOBIOGRAPHY'D, NEW EXIDE BATTERY, NEW DENSO ALTERNATOR

Yes it can.
Regards Barry 2017 Range Rover Sport TDV6 L494 SE Fuji White
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 L320 SE Fuji White Loved but GONE
2010 TRAKKA Motorhome Fiat Ducato GONE (What a dud, don't buy one)
2006 Discovery 3 SE TDV6 Automatic Chawton White/Ebony. Loved but GONE
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Ex Member Range Rover Club NSW

Thanks for the confirmation Barryp

Also anyone know the big difference between the iid Tool and the EAS Control as Im probably better off just buying the EAS Control as I only need to calibrate the suspension and already have all the other updates on the car done and there is quite abit of price difference between the 2 products, specially if im only going to use it for my suspension and probably future fault code readings? RRS SUPERCHARGED, 22 INCH ALLOYS, JAVA BLACK, FULLY COLOUR CODED
EVERY POSSIBLE SOFTWARE UPDATE INCLUDING - BLUTOOTH UPDATE, SATNAV ON THE MOVE, CLOCK ON DASH, 3 CLICK FLASH, GEARBOX RESET, COMPRESSOR UPDATE AND SUSPENSION LOWERED,
BLACK CODE RE-MAPPED, AUTOBIOGRAPHY'D, NEW EXIDE BATTERY, NEW DENSO ALTERNATOR

ReaR is meant to be a bit higher.
So measure between center wheel and wheel arch lip first before buying.

Set to off road and then down to normal first
On flat ground to measure.

Best with handbrake off.

Last edited by Andy K on Sun Jun 04 2017 8:43am. Edited 1 time in total

Range Rover Sport L320 Front 461mm Rear 465mm



The iid tool BT @£400 can do practically everything for your car! Read all fault codes, program keys. service reset, loads of diagnostic live values.

Well worth paying the extra rather than having something to just do suspension.

Someone was selling a used iid on the disco forum for £300 last week, worth a look to see if it's still there.

Really think it's essential for maintaining a happy relationship with your dealer, I'd have been bugging them a lot more if I hadn't bought one.

There is a +/- 12mm Front and +/- 13mm Rear tolerance on standard ride height so I guess theoretically worst case scenario could be a 29mm difference between front and rear heights and still be within spec. Would look a bit odd though I would imagine more like a dragster.

Cheers
Col

I bought a BT one last week for peace of mind along with a suspension adjustment and timed heating . Makes sense to have the full tool. 2018 Telsa MS
2012 Range Rover Sport HSE+
1990 Porsche 944
1985 LR 90 Soft top V8

Got the tape measure out today and measured the wheels from floor to arch while car is in access mode and both rears measure exactly the same at 77 cm but there is a difference on the front. Passenger side measures at 75 cm so 2 cm less than rear but drivers one measures 73 cm so a 2 cm gap between the passenger side wheel, im guessing the passenger side could be right as the drivers side is very close to bump stop, this could be the reason why it wants to go into extended mode most of the time when trying to lower to access mode and have the red flashing light on the drivers wheel on the 4x4 screen but only flashes red when in access mode?

Question is can I get away with just getting the suspension calibrated or will I also need to change the ride height sensor on the drivers side front wheel as well as a recalibration as im guessing once recalibrated and car sitting right it should eliminate the the red flashing light once calibrated? Or am I wrong n thinking this??? RRS SUPERCHARGED, 22 INCH ALLOYS, JAVA BLACK, FULLY COLOUR CODED
EVERY POSSIBLE SOFTWARE UPDATE INCLUDING - BLUTOOTH UPDATE, SATNAV ON THE MOVE, CLOCK ON DASH, 3 CLICK FLASH, GEARBOX RESET, COMPRESSOR UPDATE AND SUSPENSION LOWERED,
BLACK CODE RE-MAPPED, AUTOBIOGRAPHY'D, NEW EXIDE BATTERY, NEW DENSO ALTERNATOR

Mine sits lop sided at the front in access mode. I assume it's just kinda on bump stops in access mode, and calibration has little to do with it. A red bar is not unknown in access mode. Ignore.


Why don't you carefully follow the advice above.

Flat ground.
Handbrake off
Raise to off road.
Lower to normal.
Engine off.
Leave a door open.
Measure between wheel center and arch lip


I expect going to extended mode when you don't want maybe because the system can't expel/exhaust the air out the system quick enough and the system thinks there is a fault.
The compressor may need the white rubbish cleaning out. and/or valves

But if you get out and leave the door open, if your a tad heavy then the drivers side will rise but leaving the door open will prevent the car levelling (thinking of P38 theory here)?

Or does the RRS not inhibit levelling with doors open? 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
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99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

RRS L320 and L494 suspension stops both lowering and raising when a door is opened - I continually have to remind passengers to let the car get to access height before they open a door otherwise they will have a large drop to the ground...... I refuse to fit ugly side steps. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
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Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

True.

I don't like it releveling half way thru measuring!