Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me. Had multiple faults and the car went into limp mode on my way home from work on Friday evening. Fault list included:
Transmission fault
Engine system fault
Transmission fault restricted gears
HDC system fault
Park brake fault.

Pulled into a layby, turned the ignition off and restarted. Faults cleared but I only got half a mile before the cycle started again.

After reading some advice, thought it was likely to be the brake switch so replaced this on Saturday. Thought I had cracked it because the car ran fine all weekend and took me to work this morning okay. Also, when I broke the old switch apart, there seemed to be evidence of arcing and black deposits in the switch.

Disaster tonight though as the fault has come back with exactly the same symptoms as before. When the fault is not there, the car is running beautifully.

Has anybody got any suggestions please?

How old is your battery?
Have you had the codes read? Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

Only changed the battery about three months ago when the cold weather pushed it over the edge and it let me down. Is a pretty high spec battery and has been fine up until now......still think it's worth getting it drop checked?

I don't have a code reader so do you think I need to get them read before I do anything else?

Getting codes read early seems to be the common advice on this forum before you start sending good money after bad chasing faults that aren't there. Haven't got one myself but if you are handy with spanners etc and have the basic facilities, then the wisdom here seems to be to buy a good quality reader. If not a trip to your local Indie? Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
Jaguar S-Type V8 4.2 Sport
MGZTT 190 2.5

[quote="Simon_scott_wilson1979"]Only changed the battery about three months ago
I would suspect the battery ???
These vehicles are a tad fussy when it comes to batteries.

What year is you car? In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

According to the icon in the name box he has a 2007 TDv6 HSE in Izmir Blue 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Its probably the battery, put it on charge overnight and see if it cheers up.

Might also be worth getting the alternator checked out that it is working properly 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Update -

Got a code reader and identified the culprit a P229 injector control pressure too low.

Does anyone have experience with this fault code? Guess im going to be changing the fuel filter first, then the low pressure pump if that doesnt work......and praying its not the high pressure pump!

Any other ideas of things that could cause this fault greatly received....