Took the caravan away at the weekend and blew up my daughters air beds for her, but I must have over done it. The battery went flat, so I got the car jump started & gave it a run I thought everything was fine until coming home on the monday & the two lights on the right came on & twenty seconds later the third light came on. The faults were HDC fault followed by a Transmission fault. I am hoping someone out there might be able to help with the problem.Is it all to do with the flat battery?.

when the battery is flat or nearly flat then you'll probably get a whole bunch or error messages appearing, especially HDC faults and transmission faults. I've had this happen to me after playing the radio whilst washing the car (beginners mistake). I would charge the battery fully via a trickle charger. Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

Get s ctek charger on it for 36 hours  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

Told the mechanic what you lads had said so he's lent me his trickle charger & it's on charge as i'me writing this. question he's asking will the codes need cleared after charging or do they just go off?

Tried the trickle charger, but the lights were still on. So the mechanic plugged his machine into the car & removed the fault codes, but they came back on before I left the garage. So if there is any person out there with another idea I will be willing to try before handing it to my local landrover dealership, all help will be much appreciated. The fault codes are UO132, UO159, UO416, UO421.

Start back at the basics; what voltages are you getting from the battery and alternator now?  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

I doubt a trickle charger would do much as they are more for maintaining charge rather than charging.

You need a decent amp charger or preferably a smart charger - it will get a decent charge into the battery quickly and then repair and maintain plates - a trickle charger will not be able to deal with sulpherization (spelling) of the plates.

But a poor battery will through up faults all over the place - my battery is 8 years old on on the way out and it throws up low coolant faults all the time.

garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

CTEK is good for maintenance but someone posted on here it will not recharge a flat battery

About 10 years ago I flattened battery on a D2 letting kids watch LR fitted Dvd while parked. Had to get LR assist out - guy said driving would not recharge it so he jumped it then followed me to dealer who charged it overnight  Wanted a Series 2 LR since childhood but previously owned MY16 Disco Sport HSE TD4 Auto, MY13 RR Sport Black Edition TDV6 Auto, MY10 RR Sport HSE TDV6 Auto, 2007 Freelander 1 Freestyle TD4 Soft Top, 2009 Freelander 2 GS TD4 Auto, 2007 Freelander 2 GS TD4, 2004 Disco 2 Metropolis Auto, 2002 Disco 2 GS, 2000 Freelander 1 SE TD4 SW

Still hoping for a S2 one day!

I have found my MXS25 to be reluctant to charge a flat battery. I have found that it will normally be fine on the second attempt (I imagine because the battery has gained a little charge from the first). It's a cracking charger though and the reconditioning mode is great.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

The mechanic finally got back to me with the voltage readings, with the engine switched on it was reading 14.88 & switched off reading 13.5, is that what you were after lost for words mate?

What fault codes on the reader has it brought up? Modern car problems are first diagnosed with a fault reader..... Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

wings21660 wrote:

The mechanic finally got back to me with the voltage readings, with the engine switched on it was reading 14.88 & switched off reading 13.5, is that what you were after lost for words mate?

As RRSTDV8 has said, the 13.5V reading from the battery must have been taken without leaving the battery for the surface charge to clear.

14.88V is perhaps a little high, but it could be expected with a poorer battery and isn't high enough to cause problems in it's own right.

As an accurate standing charge reading from a 12V battery, this is what you're looking for:


 Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Dr Rob the only fault codes I was given is the ones i posted earlier hope this helps

Always handy to have a powerpack handy for all those blowing up of airbeds type of job, also comes in handy for charging phones and things, as well as jump starting cars with dead batteries.
Did I mention I am selling one, must have slipped my mind, lol. 2005 Vesuvius 1st edition ( now sadly gone ).