So, I'm in the process of cleaning my rear calipers. Unfortunately I had to take the car out today, unplanned, so had to remount everything. It was my plan to wait until the new pads arrived.

Anyway, I opened the bleed nipple to push the piston back, as I was silly enough to push the brake pedal in when the caliper was dismounted. This worked fine and I was able to put everything back in place without any problems.

When I got into the car to drive away, I pumped the brake pedal several times. However, it still feels a little spongy. I took the car for a drive around the block and I'm having to push the brake pedal in about half way before the pads start to engage.

The brake fluid is still on max. It's difficult to say how much brake fluid emptied from the nipple but it was about 100ml.

What I fear is that air got sucked into the brake hose. Should I follow the procedure in Bodsy's brake bible, page 33? Any other procedures I should follow?

Many thanks! Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

Suntanluke, It sounds like you have drawn air in to the system as you suspect, Try bleeding the system as per Bodsys recommendation, i'm not sure if you will get away with bleeding the rears only.

Thanks for that Ady! It does sound like I'm compressing air and that the sound is coming from the rear. I have some Castrol DOT 4 fluid so I'll perform the bleed tomorrow.

what I'm wondering is, what's the best way to bleed the system? Bodsy mentions that you should open the valve, pump the brakes several times, then on the last pump hold the pedal down and close the valve. However I've also read that you should instead open the value, press the pedal and hold it down, close the valve, remove foot from pedal and let it come back up, and repeat the process several times.

what do you guy think is the best way?

EDIT: maybe I should see how far I get with gravity bleeding, say gravity bleed for 20 mins then finish off with a pump session ? Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

I changed my rear pads the other week, I put a piece of clear plastic tube on the nipple, opened it up and got my boy to pump the peddle, once I could see a bubble free stream through the tubing and allowing sufficient time to pass the full pipework, I closed in the nipple whilst he was still pumping the peddle, I done both rears, never touched the fronts, topped up reservoir, nice tight feel to the pedal now, no spongeyness at all. I'm not saying you shouldn't do the fronts, I just felt the brakes were good with out having too. 2007 RRS 2.7 HSE - Java Black

Thanks Danny! Good point about doing rears only. I may anyway get a full drain and replacement at next service.

The only thing I'm thinking of is this: if you don't get rid of all bubbles after the first pump, these will be taken back into the hose. However now whilst I'm typing, I realise that the bubbles furthest away from the nipple will get successively closer and eventually dispelled. I think the trick is to keep the plastic tube as short as possible.

Ok ill do it the Body's way. Pump several times. Place drain in container of brake fluid. Open valve and pump several times. Close valve. E voilà! Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

You'll know when the peddle is on the down stroke with the flow, I just watched it and when the flow sped up i tightened the nipple. 2007 RRS 2.7 HSE - Java Black

Why not buy a brake bleeder from your local car accessories shop. The one I am thinking of is called a one person brake bleeder and it has a weighted tube with a ball valve in the bottom to stop the system from drawing old fluid or air back into the system. They are very cheap and good to use when doing a full system flush. (LR recommends doing a full flush every 3 years)
Regards
Barry 2017 Range Rover Sport TDV6 L494 SE Fuji White
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 L320 SE Fuji White Loved but GONE
2010 TRAKKA Motorhome Fiat Ducato GONE (What a dud, don't buy one)
2006 Discovery 3 SE TDV6 Automatic Chawton White/Ebony. Loved but GONE
2006 BMW X5 diesel White/Charcoal, Bought new, Gone after 12 years! Was Excellent.
Ex Member Range Rover Club NSW

Barry, I'll be doing that on Monday!
Here's why:

I bled the brakes today, rear offside. Dipped end of the tube in brake fluid (Shell DOT4 ESL), opened value half turn, got the missus to pump the pedal up and down several times. First few pumps extruded more air than fluid ! Towards the end there were micro bubbles being extruded, but also this horrible cloudy old fluid.

This has made me convinced that whilst this system I used was very good in removing air from the system, with the braking better now than before in fact, drawing old (and new, i.e mixed) fluid back into the system isn't ideal.

If I can find this pump tomorrow I'll be doing the flush tomorrow. I'm almost desperate to get this done now, seeing what came out of there! Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.