Do any of you let your turbo's cool down before switching the engine off after a run? This is something i have always done and never had a turbo failure yet on any of my vehicles. But as RRSTDV8 says, i'm sure it has something to do with the confined space of the RRS engine bay and all the heat that surrounds the turbo's especially after a run.
Hope you get it sorted RRSTDV8 asap.

Glad to hear your RRS is being sorted and without it hurting your wallet. Thank goodness for the warranty.

You'll certainly appreciate it more than ever having driven an Evoke for a few days….. FF 4.4 V8 Soooo looking forward to this bad boy
Ex 2006 RRS SC - garbage
Ex 2016 135i M Sport - dream car
Ex 2003 RS6 Avant - piece of cr*p
Ex 2014 320d X Drive, M Sport Touring - ok I guess
Ex 2007 RRS TDV8 - bloody loved it
EX 2007 FL2 XS - not so bad

Ady 555, in a previous life I used to let the turbo's cool with tractors and big excavators but I don't do this with the RRS. Do you reccomend something like 2 or 3 minutes at tickover before stopping the engine?

Under bonnet temperature could be an issue - I recall donkey's year ago while working on military vehicles we'd installed the Jag 6cylinder (i.e. 4.2, E-type) engine in some lightweight (for a Tank) vehicles and cooling was a big factor - it contributed to all manner of problems including warped cylinder heads etc. Everything tends to be OK while the engines is running and the vehicle's in motion its a few minutes after stopping that the real issues can start.

One of the issues with the lack of air space around an engine is that when the car is stopped after a run the under bonnet temperature can rise very significantly and, because the coolant pump isn't running. There can be local hotspots at very high temperatures. A typical place for a hotspot is the turbocharger and this can lead to frying the lubrication and minute scales in the oil-way decreasing future oil flow. Another factor of the local high temperature is the possibility of carbon being baked onto a blade causing an out-of-balance in the vanes. This can cause vibration and the vane the inside of the casing and breaking. A small particle of hardened carbon dislodged from a blade or exhaust valve (because the engines has been used at higher than normal revs ( say after lots of 'school runs) can have the same terminal effect.

The big issue with Turbos is lubrication - letting the engine run up to speed gently before its up to operating temperature after its been standing is important. Also allowing the engine to tick-over after use for a few minutes and before switching off is also important - but sometimes that's not very convenient e.g. at motorway services, etc.

Regularly exercising the engine's full rev range can actually be beneficial. However, a word of warning, it you have a car that has never (or hardly ever, or is new to you) been taken to the higher rev range be careful to do this over a period of time, gradually increasing the revs used for only short periods - a bit like running in a new car.

Ady 555 wrote:

Do any of you let your turbo's cool down before switching the engine off after a run? This is something i have always done and never had a turbo failure yet on any of my vehicles. But as RRSTDV8 says, i'm sure it has something to do with the confined space of the RRS engine bay and all the heat that surrounds the turbo's especially after a run.
Hope you get it sorted RRSTDV8 asap.

Always cautious when cold and let turbos cool for 30 secs, or time it takes to gather fags, phone, case and other clobber that gathers on front seat coming from an engineering design background, have always been sympathetic to mechanical components. My lorry completed 1,980000km before needing a turbo and that was only due to light oil leak filling intercooler with oil over 14 years.

Audis suffered from under bonnet hot spots but quickly resolved the problem by installing afterun pumps to keep water flowing, issue with turbos is that they revolve at 18000 rpm at tickover, so cutting oil supply to them when switching off isn't helpful but majority of manufacturers have protection systems. The introduction of sulphur free diesel is major factor in build up of soot and carbon, the EGR system in quest to reduce immissions is another detrimental factor to engine long life. 2x TDV6. SE and HSE. Both returned to sender with issues👀
TDV8 Sport HSE...... Gone. Loved it but it didn't love me!!
Now rolling in MY10 Fullfat TDV8 Vogue. Slammed it to go round corners🙈
Cruising daily #56 mph in a Volvo V8. 😱
Lots of other toys in the cupboard...😜

Hi ,
Ref "LRA losing their Disco's".

The LRA guy who recently sorted my turbo actuator told me they were losing their Disco's.

Reason:- 7 seat RRS's and some new Jags (LRA cover J & LR's) don't have room for a spare wheel. For the occasions when a tyre gets shredded and the bottle of "goo" won't work , they are having to carry a "selection" of wheels to keep customers on the move. That many wheels and the batteries and rest of the stuff they carry won't fit in a Disco.

As we live in the West Country and his patch was Bristol to Plymouth - he wasn't too happy about the prospects of Winter Assistance !!!

Scrumps Somerset - Where the apples do grow and the cider do flow!
2021 Defender 90 D250 HSE in Tasman with white roof.
24MY D300 AB - Verasine Blue - 😀
19MY SDV6 AB - Byron Blue - Gone
17MY D5 SDV6 HSE - Firenze Red - Gone
16MY SDV6 AB -Aruba Silver - Gone
13.5MY SDV6 "HSE Black" - Baltic Blue - Gone
10MY TDV8 HSE Galway Green - Gone
14MY D4 HSE in Scotia Grey - Gone
05 TD5 D90 CSW in Cairns Blue

Ady 555 wrote:

Do any of you let your turbo's cool down before switching the engine off after a run? This is something i have always done and never had a turbo failure yet on any of my vehicles. But as RRSTDV8 says, i'm sure it has something to do with the confined space of the RRS engine bay and all the heat that surrounds the turbo's especially after a run.
Hope you get it sorted RRSTDV8 asap.

Bradders wrote:

Glad to hear your RRS is being sorted and without it hurting your wallet. Thank goodness for the warranty.

You'll certainly appreciate it more than ever having driven an Evoke for a few days…..

Yes, garage phoned today to confirm warranty covering it. Phew!

I'm actually enjoying the Evoque - could see one as a second car on the drive. Shame SWMBO isn't a great fan!  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Garage phoned to say that it won't be ready until Monday PM. Apparently they are going to replace both turbos! They're struggling with them too, according to the service chap.

I wonder, however, if they're just stalling for time to fit it in to the workshop.

They have extended the Evoque over the weekend which is good news at least.

Glad I extended the warranty for another year! 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Sounds like a good result. I noticed you said you had taken out this years warranty with extended version, what is this?

Basic Differences

Thank you for purchasing a Land Rover Extended Warranty.
We hope that this booklet is easy to understand and explains clearly all the
benefits of your chosen warranty.
The following pages, including the terms and conditions, set out exactly what is
and what is not covered by your Land Rover Warranty and MOT Insurance. It is
very important that you read each page carefully, so you fully understand the
terms and conditions, and in particular the vehicle servicing requirements and
claims procedure.
Extended Warranty includes:
– Cover for vehicles up to ten years/100,000 miles at time of purchase
– Mechanical and Electrical Breakdown Warranty
– Unlimited claim liability – up to the purchase price of the vehicle in the
aggregate
– Cover for Consequential Failure
– Unlimited mileage cover
– MOT Insurance

Select Extended Warranty includes:
– Cover for vehicles of any age up to 100,000 miles
– Mechanical and Electrical Breakdown Warranty
– £3,000 individual claim limit including VAT – up to the purchase price of the
vehicle in the aggregate
– Up to 25,000 miles per annum from mileage at purchase
– MOT Insurance

There are quite a few other items which are covered with the Extended but not with the Select warranty. Renewed mine last month with Roadside Assist I think it was £1090.00 for the year

You can actually download booklet from L/R website.

Cheers
Col

Thanks Col.

As shown by Col, there are two versions of LR's warranty. They've recently changed the thresholds for the two types. Previously, the Extended cover was limited to 7 years old / 100k miles. This year they have allowed it to cover vehicles up to 10 years/100k miles. Last year I had to go on to the Select (lower cover) but this year I changed back to the better cover. And I'm glad I did!

When the renewal came through, the prices had gone up a bit (about £1250 for the Extended cover (the better one) + LR Assist). SWMBO thought that a little steep and suggested going for the Select cover at about £750. I have decided against uttering the "I told you so" comment - life's too short!

Looking at Col's figure for renewal, I wonder if they quote based on claim history - last year mine paid out for a new rear diff, for example, meaning that every year I've had the warranty it will have paid out more than it cost me! 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Hi yeah I was surprised at renewal price as I'm sure it's same as I paid last year, but then didn't make any claims so as you suggest might be a factor.

Cheers
Col

Do you go direct or via your dealers?