firstinretail wrote:

mse wrote:

Sorry, procedure for jacking the car is really important

Its air suspension to MAX height, hazards on. I always was shown to open the windows, but not sure why or if you need to.

Tailgate does not need to be open.

Jack away (avoiding the compressor on the chassis rail)

That's sorry, a door has to be open this disables the suspension, but a door can blow shut so the tailgate is used. Try adjusting the suspension with a door or tailgate open, nothing to do with the windows. Forums are dangerous when wrong info is given out !

There is only one person talking t here!!

If you would like to turn to page 216 of your manual - which i will copy for you later - you will see the instructions.

Jacked many of these up.

The thing that stops the compressor is A) the off road height and b) the Hazards.

The above also stops self levelling

Had a tyre changed at land rover on my 11 and that was the procedure.

Think logically - your at the side of the motorway in the hail/sleet rain...open your door/boot - no.

Your thinking about leaving it at normal height and stopping it raising - but thats not what shags the compressor.

I dont mess around with safety advice...you shouldnt either  Mike

2014 Facelift Discovery

Well good luck mr safety, because I have just checked, my car will go up and down with the hazards on, engine on, it will also lower itself from max with the hazards on with no engine on. (so if someone lent on the button whilest a wheel was off it would lower) the car Won't do either with a door or the tail gate open ?....

So I will stick with the door/tailgate open method, as that 100% disables the compressor. If you took some fog and put it in a jar, would it be missed.

Am I missing something?? You put into extended height to fool the compressor, as if you left it in standard height it would never get the wheel off the ground, thinking it was going over a rock?? Can the compressor "suck" the wheel back into the wheel well if left (doors closed/hazards on/windscreen wipers going, whatever.......
Cheers
Dave MY10 TDV6 SE (debadged ), Santorini Black, Flappy paddles, Privacy Glass, 20" Stormers, Mudflaps!

Gone: a comprehensive list of imprezas and a Merc ML AMG

I can't remember who told me the tailgate trick, but I remember them saying how important it was!


 ============
2010 TDV8 HSE - ooo laa laaaaaaaaa
2007 TDV8 HSE - superb car and very reliable
============
2012 - dearly departed, sadly missed.. to return in late 2013 with a new TDV8!

codfather wrote:

Am I missing something?? You put into extended height to fool the compressor, as if you left it in standard height it would never get the wheel off the ground, thinking it was going over a rock?? Can the compressor "suck" the wheel back into the wheel well if left (doors closed/hazards on/windscreen wipers going, whatever.......
Cheers
Dave

Exactly - it wont pull the wheel back into the well - it cant drop the car because its raised

You can raise and lower the car with the hazards on (i do it for towing with the remote)...that isnt the point (incidentally, you shouldn't do it with the engine running - engine should be off in park etc)

With the engine off you cant lower the car like you describe - no need to mess around with the tailgate

Having said that maybe thats why they crack the window

Incidentally - how many of you disable the self levelling when your on the ferry - that shags the compressor if you do it a lot  Mike

2014 Facelift Discovery

Well we will have to agree to disagree, I have just sat in the car engine off and I CAN lower it, can't with a door open. If you took some fog and put it in a jar, would it be missed.

My P38 won't move on its air suspension if a door or tailgate is open, neither will the RRS (05). Think of it, door open, suspension drops, door crashes onto kerb or anything else that could be in the way

The owner's manual states that the suspension should be in off road mode prior to jacking. No reference to open doors or tailgate. There is a mention of the hazard (as well as the warning triangle), I suspect this is more to do with the safety of being seen to be stranded rather than anything to do with the suspension.

mse wrote:

Incidentally - how many of you disable the self levelling when your on the ferry - that shags the compressor if you do it a lot

Do you lock it into access mode to achieve this, run the hazards during the crossing or leave a door/tailgate open ? 

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

Just to further confuse things,( i read my manual after i had changed a wheel ), i jacked mine up in normal mode, no doors/tailgate open, no hazards on, just jacked it up like a normal car, changed the wheel, and drove off, no dramas, no suspension faults, no nothing 07,TDV8,Black, Black Heated leather all round, Rear Entertainment with Headpones & Remote, TV, DVD, Pure Dab Digital Radio, Sidesteps, Adaptive Headlights, sunroof, now working fuel burning heater )))

shakeapaw wrote:

Just to further confuse things,( i read my manual after i had changed a wheel ), i jacked mine up in normal mode, no doors/tailgate open, no hazards on, just jacked it up like a normal car, changed the wheel, and drove off, no dramas, no suspension faults, no nothing

To be fair, I doubt that the one-off occurrence of lifting a wheel to change it is likely to cause any serious damage to the compressor, rather the advice is given to make the job easier: get the compressor to do the hard work of lifting the car as high as possible, then use the jack to get the wheel off the ground.

This is easier than lifting the vehicle through the whole suspension travel on the jack before the wheel will even start to lift. 

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

I highly recommend that you order the Range Rover 200x-2009 Repair manual.
I just got it and it has everything you need to know about RR maintenance.
Go to ebay and you will find it.

Ok, so I needed to swap 2 front wheels last night, vehicle was put into off road mode (1 click up) and I opened the tailgate. As I jacked the car up and got almost to the point where the wheel left the floor the car decided to suck the wheel into the arch, giving me a bit of a scare as I was pretty close. This seems pretty dangerous to me, can anyone say for certain what the correct procedure for jacking is? Do the hazards really percent this happening? Incidentally, when I changed the other side there was no problem??

Prevent not percent......predictive text

So what procedure do the dealers use Ive seen them drive the vehicle into the two post ramp using the swing out arms, and just lift the vehicle, not opening any doors or tailgate and not putting the hazard lights on. If anyone should know the correct procedure they should. When i'm changing my wheels over i raise the vehicle into full height mode then put it into P, put handbrake on, leave a door and tailgate open, then crack on changing the wheels.

I've little faith in main dealers! They should know the correct procedure but that doesn't mean they always follow it! I had an Audi previously that had a problem with the front suspension. The Audi dealer had put the mount in upside down, picked up by an old mechanic charging a hell of a lot less than the 'main dealer'. Maybe I'll contact Land Rover for the answer, though I feel it should be a lot clearer considering the damage/injury that could result from changing a wheel!!

In the tech section there's a link to the Disco 3 workshop manual and that includes jacking procedure:
http://landrover.workshop-manuals.com/lr3/index.php?id=85 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE