I have excessive wear on the inside of my tyres (front), and the steering wheel doesn't sit straight. I understand I need 4 wheel alignment carried out, and after a bit of digging on this forum understand that the vehicle needs to be set into 'tight tolerance mode' for which specialist kit is required.

Can anyone confirm that this is neccessary, as all the garages in the Birmingham area I've tried haven't known what I was on about, even wheel alignment specialists. I understand that this mode prevents the suspension auto-levelling while the work is carried out, is there another way, I.e. door/boot open, fuse out, hazards on or any other crazy method that seems to get banded about to stop these cars doing their own thing!!

Beancounter is an expert on this subject and i'm sure he will be along soon after his afternoon nap to advise.

Yes TTM is set to keep everything nice and tight during the 4 wheel alinement, once its put in to TTM you will get a red warning on the dash of an unstable car icon.

Once its set you just return control to ecu, just done one yesterday..

Flack

Tony666 wrote:

I understand that this mode prevents the suspension auto-levelling while the work is carried out, is there another way, I.e. door/boot open, fuse out, hazards on or any other crazy method that seems to get banded about to stop these cars doing their own thing!!

Tony666 wrote:

I have excessive wear on the inside of my tyres (front), and the steering wheel doesn't sit straight.

The steering wheel on mine wasn't sitting quite straight, seemingly aiming a little to the right in order to go straight ahead, so I had the 4 wheel alignment done today, and its no better!

Going back tomorrow to let them know. 2016 VW Golf GTD DSG
2007 Exige S British GT SE
Gone : 2011 3.0TDV6 HSE, Stornoway Grey, Ivory, Piano Black Trim, Paddleshift, Privacy Glass, Side Steps, Mud Flaps, Heated Steering Wheel, Timed Climate & Remote Park Heating

I've got to get my alignment done again soon as it seems to have drifted, will ask about the TTM.

@ Flack - what are the consequences of having the car lined without it in TTM? ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

Camber, tow and wheelbase change with ride height. As the RRS has a large ride height range, there is an associated large change in camber etc. With the vehicle in normal tightness mode, the EAS allows the suspension to be within a fairly large tolerance in order to prevent the system working overtime to stay within tolerances i.e. it means the compressor doesn't have to run all of the time. In tight tolerance mode the system works hard to keep the suspension within much tighter tolerances.

If you set up the suspension in normal mode the vehicle could be sat at the extremes of its large ride height tolerance with the result being that the wheels could have markedly different camber etc. If you then set the camber etc. at that ride height combination and the vehicle is driven away, the ride heights can change and the alignment is now wrong. By setting the system to tight tolerance mode, you make sure the vehicle is sitting more correctly. The result is that the alignment will be more accurate.

You can set the vehicle's alignment in normal mode and get a good result IF the vehicle happens to be sitting with similar ride heights around the vehicle. But you are relying more on a bit of liuck.

When I last had mine checked, the guy doing the work showed me how the system picked up changing camber and toe measurements as he moved the vehicle slightly by leaning on it. It's amazing how sensitive the alignment systems is. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks RRSTDV8  ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

@RRSTDV8

I could not of explained it better good explanation on how it works.

But one thing still keeps being missed when some centers do the 4 wheel alignment is making sure the steering wheel is straight after they have done it, I even used to check this before we had laser alignment gear, one consequence of not doing this check after your wheel alignment is that if they move it quite a bit to get it straight then you might end up having to calibrate the steering angle ecu if it spits it's dummy out and throws up all sorts of warning's.

Flack

Thanks Flack  ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

Ok, can anyone tell me what type of equipment is required to put the car into tight tolerance mode?

I believe the manufacturers of 4 wheel alignment systems (Pro-Align, Hunter Hawk etc.) do an add-on module for their systems that allows the technician to set the vehicle to TTM. How many tyre places bother to buy that module is the question. I guess you'll just have to phone around and ask. Alternatively, take your vehicle to a LR dealership - they will do the 4WA with it in TTM. How good a job they do is a moot point however.

Alternatively, you could buy an IIDTool or EASTool from Gap Diagnostics. The former allows access to read and clear all fault codes and gives access to various live values etc. The latter tool just allows control of the suspension system. Excellent little devices (about the size of a cigarette box, or maybe a little smaller). I have an IID and have used it to reset my FBH, set TTM for an alignement by my local tyre place and check various fault codes. Lives in the glove box and is updated by the manufacturer as further features are developed. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

It seems that RRSTDV8 is the in house expert not Bc Well explained RRSTDV8.

Just passing on stuff I've picked up on my travels through t'web as I tried to figure out a tyre wear issue on my RRS.

I have never understood why LR chose to build the D3/4, RRS and FFRR with adjustable suspension that would make a race car look simple. For something designed to thump around off road, it seems slightly odd to me. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

RRSTDV8 wrote:

Just passing on stuff I've picked up on my travels through t'web as I tried to figure out a tyre wear issue on my RRS.

I have never understood why LR chose to build the D3/4, RRS and FFRR with adjustable suspension that would make a race car look simple. For something designed to thump around off road, it seems slightly odd to me.

It is because they are off road vehicles and the travel in the suspension when going off road is so big, they need this when the electronics kick in so the car can detect what to do at what corner when it is climbing or in ruts its all to do with center of gravity and keeping the car level as much as possible.

Flack