Now look what you have started Pee Hen

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 2013 Discovery HSE Luxury - 3.0 SDV6 - Santorini Black
2013 Evoque 5 Door Pure Tech SD4 - Orkney Grey with Panoramic Roof (Mrs E's new baby)

GONE - RRS - 3.0 TDV6 HSE - Santorini (2010)
GONE - RRS - 2.7 TDV6 HSE - Java Black (2007)
GONE - Porsche Boxster S - 3.2 - Black

Pang Hee Ren wrote:

KAHN is actually using a taiwan/china wheel factory to produce their wheels in case if you guys dont know. How they sell to KAHN china dealers here is by shipping this wheels out first and then "import" them into china to let people have the false impression that these wheels are actually imported wheels from UK. We managed to trace their source to the company doing the wheels for them here in China. The cost is actually a fraction of their listed retail price online.

Well, if we're on about the Chinese/Far East manufacturing what are supposedly UK brands, then yes it's gone on for years. It's far cheaper to produce anything in quantity in the east, as labour costs are much cheaper, and they don't have the same taxes and regulation. What has changed in the last ten/twenty years, is we're sending the 'Brains' over to make sure it's upto standard. Part of my company produces Specialist Hammers. We used to do the simple stuff too, Sledge and Clubs etc, but we can't forge a head in the UK, for what it costs for 2 complete hammers imported, taxes and all. It's changing though, as you've said, their getting a flavour for our western lifestyle, so aspirations are up and they want the things we have, including branded goods. This is driving up the cost of living, which is driving up wages at the top, which is driving up production costs across the region. It won't be long before the cost of imports are soon catching our production costs over here, and you'll see manufacturing pick up in the UK again. I hope so anyway!! I would guess all the alloy wheel makers have them made abroad, it just makes sense, but what you buy as a copy (they don't have any retaining contracts over their!) is the rejects/seconds from the main production run. When it's found out, the main customer (Overfinch/OZ/Khan etc.) will move production to another plant, taking there patterns with them. This will slow the copy process but not stop it. But over time they'll try save money, make wall thickness thinner, and then they'll have problems, but they've made there money by then, so onto the next copy project. Ginneta just sent a bunch of cars over to china, probably to a legitimate customer, but how long before a copy rolls out of Huang Dong? If you can buy from a reputable retailer that's happy to warrant the wheels, then great, but I won't be buying any copies, it goes against the grain when so much of my business gets ripped off! Besides (quite ironically! As I recently spoke to Overfinch about their wheels on eBay, particularly a set for £2k) there's a used set on there for...... guess?? That's right, £2k!! If I had my truck now I'd be buying them, but I'll wait till it arrives first! I'm constantly appauled at the level of individuality in peoples vehicles, when there are so may options freely available, and that nobody thinks outside the box.

@V8 Fettler

Hi I've just seen your comments regarding Overfinch wheels on eBay, there are a number of ways to tell whether they are genuine or not.

1) Load Rating - our wheels are TuV approved and load rated to 1025KG per wheel, the copies are usually around 850KG

2) OVERFINCH stamped in the back spokes of the wheel (some copies now have OVERFINCH on the face of the wheel so this isn't always a sign of authenticity)

3) All our wheels are manufactured in the UK so there should also be a UK stamp on the back of one of the spokes.

4) If you're unsure, feel free to email me the link (jordan.sloane@overfinch.com) of the listing and I'll do my best to get back to you with the verdict.

Hope this is useful, sorry for the delayed response I've not been on here as often as I'd like recently.

Thanks

Jordan

Just FYI - I have original OF supersports, and the cracking issue is not just limited to replicas.

Front passenger side I noticed had a dent in a few years ago on the outside edge, and so had to replace. No idea what I must have hit, dont remember anything too big, and didnt damage the tyre. Fortunately OF Farnham were willing to do me a deal on a single wheel.

However, recently we noticed that same replaced wheel losing pressure. Turns out it had cracked on the inside edge. Fortunately, it's repairable.

And for the avoidance of trolling accusations, here is a photo JLC took

Click image to enlarge

Surely nobody believes that only reps are the only wheels to crack, dent etc etc? All alloys are as bad as each other. Its a characteristic of the material!!! I find it rather annoying that large reputable companies pick faults with cheaper manufacturers, surely by reducing their HUGE profits by selling at a reasonable price it would make it very awkward for reps to be sold because quite frankly who would want them?

If yo hit a big enough hole with any alloy you stand a chance of it cracking  2.7 TDV6
22" Stormer alloys
Side steps
PS3
Headrest monitors
Black badges
Stainless tailpipes
Privacy glass
L.E.D. lights throughout.

Porkchop wrote:

I find it rather annoying that large reputable companies pick faults with cheaper manufacturers, surely by reducing their HUGE profits by selling at a reasonable price it would make it very awkward for reps to be sold because quite frankly who would want them?

Possibly one of the more sensible statements in the entire thread  MY2007 RRS TDV8 Black - tinted glass - side steps- stormer grille - 20" diamond cut alloys - alpaca leather - TV/DVD pack - some blingy chrome bits & bob's

I had 22 inch stormers on the full fat, the ride was terrible and destroyed the front suspension in no time, drop links ,control arms track rod ends, i was always concerned driving such a heavy car on replica alloys, the ride on 20inch on the sc is superb so I'll be staying with them.

Just my opinion and experience so its each to there own


Tony

^^^ I had 22's on my full fat for 18 months 20k miles with no suspensions issues what so ever, no cracked rims, ride was good (even lowered it 25mm).

I think it's down to the driver. I've always been into modified show cars that have been lowered as far as possible on the lowest profile tyre possible so my eyes can spot a pot hole a mile off, so i avoid them, never drive up curbs etc etc.

So personally I agree it's not cheap wheels that are the fault, the expensive ones have been shown to crack too!

I seem to remember about 2 years ago on BBC Watchdog that BMW owners were suffering from cracked alloys a lot. BMW said there was no problem with the wheels but owners insisted there was.

The shock of hitting a pothole with a low profile tyre transmits all the energy straight to the alloy, the wheels just can not take it. Thicker tyres absorb more of the energy so less stress is put on the wheel. 2006 RRS SC Bonatti Grey (the 55th car/van I have owned)
2005 GSX 1400 K5

The facts are our roads are some of the worst in Europe, 22" wheels, a big heavy vehicle add a decent pothole and your wheels no matter who makes them are ruined.

Many years ago, when my vehicle of choice was as low as this...

We still split our wheels, trashed the suspension, battered the entire floor pan, so it's not entirely to do with cheap copies.

How can you tell if a wheel is genuine?

Well as a new member I have read all fo this thread and I think I will add my tupence worth.(hows that for proper English).
Load ratings here in Australia are a legal requirement. I.e. 1. The vechile manufacturer must state the minimum safe recommended rating for both the tyres and wheels. 2. The wheels and tyres must have the load rating permanantly stamped on them and meet the Aust. Design Rules. Owners and sellers can be prosecuted if they fit ones that are below the minimum. Its not related to how many people you may be transporting
Thats not to say you cant fit non O.E. wheels as long as they meet those requirements. Mine had some 22" wheels on when I brought it. In the state of Victoria the local Registration/Roadworty authority also makes rules. One is that you can only fit wheels up to 2" bigger than the largest form the manufacturer for that model. If you want to go any bigger you need an engineers safety certificate.
If you think you have potholes (or are they rabbit warrens) over there you want to come over and try hitting a 'Bulldust' (this is correct) hole. You cant see them unless your wearing polariod sunglasses. they can be a foot deep and 2 to 3 feet round.
Seriously, I agree with the comments about the 22" lower profile tyres being mainly responsible for damage to the Rims. There is just not enough rubber/air to absorb any sort of impact without damage. I have another vehicle where The std rims are 18" which I use when travelling interstate. I brought some nice 20" ones for it to drive around the suburbs and I have already damaged one (pot hole) and had to buy 2 more because they only sell them in twos.
So we seem to have tighter regs. over here and the only way you could get a really bad wheel is if it was a complete fake.