Took car to an independent LR dealer today for a second opinion on the P132B fault after 1/2 hour of them thrashing it about with the auto logic machine plugged in they came up with the dreaded news - the turbo is stuffed
After a few telephone calls and silly prices I decided I would do it myself I've taken some pics and will post them later got to the stage where the drill is required but I've had enough tonight and thought some beer would help
One quick question, when its all free does it come out from underneath (so exhaust will need removing fully) or out through the inner wing?
Cheers .......Boost
Last edited by Boost on Sat Dec 01 2012 10:06pm. Edited 1 time in total
Sat Dec 01 2012 12:07am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4449
Comes out from underneath. Exhaust needs to be removed
Pictures of the turbo removal, this is the first time I've done this so did it at my pace and maybe took more off than I need to.........
First the car was put in the garage
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Then the LHS front wheel removed and front end put on axle stands. First thing to remove is the transmission cross menber
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This has a little pump/filter bolted to it so that was removed after the heat shield
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Then the front transmission cross member
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Next thing to remove was the front propshaft, looks like the front UJ is leaking!
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Now we can see where the exhaust bolts to the turbo
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Then I removed the first heat shied hiding the turbo in the inner wing area
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Next was to undo the exhaust from the turbo, these were FT! one nut came off and on the other two the studs came out!
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Next were some more heat shields
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Then one of the support brackets
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Then the lower turbo mounting nut was loosened, I could not shift this to start with and thought I was going to round it off so it was heated with a blowlamp them it came off!
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Next thing to come off was the front suspension upper arm, this required a few more heat shields to be removed aswell, now I could see the turbo!!!
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Next thing to be loosened was the oil feed pipe, I left this on until last thing to stop any getting in
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Then the oil return pipe
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Next the other mounting bracket was supposed to be removed but be forked if I could shift them bolts, thought I save them til later and it was loose (hopefully). That is as far as I got yesterday. I was wondering if the exhaust system needed fully removing so I asked, Disco_Mikey confirmed this - Thanks
So first job today was exhaust removal
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Next was to unplug the unit, I could not get my delicate hands into reach so removed the small air pipe to gain access
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Then came the bit I was not lookin forward too - Drilling the upper turbo mounting studs out. I decided to start with a 6mm drill, I remembered I had extended a holesaw a while back for a job and the pilot bit in them was 6mm - borrowed!
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The bit needed sharpening several times during this
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I decided to make another to hold the 8mm bit required, I drilled the centre out to 8mm on the lathe (dead handy bit of kit) then welded a bit of 8mm round bar to it
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The studs were drilled to about 15mm, then I used a punch to pop the first stud out through the exhaust manifolds, you can see the top left stud popped out here
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I tried to pop the top left one out but the turbo then fell off!!
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So I removed the air pipes and tried to wiggle it out
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But it would not come out due the the bracket I failed to removed earlier, but now I can get to the bollts
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One turbo out!
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A couple of pics showing the actuator on the bench
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Just need to buy a new one and fit it!!!
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
Last edited by Boost on Sat Dec 01 2012 10:03pm. Edited 1 time in total
Sat Dec 01 2012 8:43pm
Ady 555 Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2010
Location: Good old yorkshire
Posts: 8738
Excellent write up there Boost, not something i would ever try doing, my days of repairing my motor to this extent are long gone, but full credit to you. Good luck on the rebuild.
Sat Dec 01 2012 9:31pm
Bob.
Member Since: 03 Feb 2009
Location: SWest
Posts: 275
+1
When finished need to add this to the "Definitive List of How tos"
Sat Dec 01 2012 9:53pm
Tim Hoang
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: London
Posts: 77
V. good write up with pictures Boost. My vehicle has just developed P0046 fault code which is 'Turbo/Super Charge Boost Control Solenoid A Circuit' according to my Hawkeye.
Is it the turbo need replacing ? OR something else?
many thanks.2005 RRS TDV6 HSE Java Black
2005 997 C2
Sun Dec 02 2012 11:43am
Bradders
Member Since: 08 Oct 2009
Location: Leeds
Posts: 2515
A brave man indeed - great write up too. Hope all goes back ok FF 4.4 V8 Soooo looking forward to this bad boy
Ex 2006 RRS SC - garbage
Ex 2016 135i M Sport - dream car
Ex 2003 RS6 Avant - piece of cr*p
Ex 2014 320d X Drive, M Sport Touring - ok I guess
Ex 2007 RRS TDV8 - bloody loved it
EX 2007 FL2 XS - not so bad
Sun Dec 02 2012 1:01pm
Nik
Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: Up North
Posts: 657
I wouldn't dare attempt what you've done 2015 Golf R DSG
Gone 2013 Mercedes C220 CDi AMG Sport Plus
Gone 2008 2.7 RRS HSE
V. good write up with pictures Boost. My vehicle has just developed P0046 fault code which is 'Turbo/Super Charge Boost Control Solenoid A Circuit' according to my Hawkeye.
Is it the turbo need replacing ? OR something else?
many thanks.
That's a different code to what I got, mine was P132B, but the description sounds exactly the same, I had mine checked by 2 different dealers before I took the plunge - I'm sure someone on here may be able to tell you or offer some adive.
A lot of turbo suppliers insist on changing the oil supply pipe - why? No mention of this in the LR procedure for changiing?
And if it has to done where's the other end of it and is it possible?
Another one whilst on the oil pipe subject. I want to make sure that oil is being delivered before I fit the new turbo. I am going to crank the engine over as is with the turbo removed, but don't want it to start! Is there anything I can remove to stop it starting, sort of like the fuel solenoid on older traditional diesels?
Mon Dec 03 2012 9:18pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4449
Thanks Mikey, I was planning on trying that tonight..........
Thought I'd remove the other stud that was left in, one tap with a punch and out , then clean up the exhaust manifold face - Is there a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo? There doesn't seem to be one - Face to face joint?
Anyway cleaned it up with some industrial type pads (apparently they are used for cleaning turbines in power stations ) Some fibres entered the manifold, not wanting them to enter new turbo when fitted decided not to use airline to blow them out, instead I came up with a cracking idea - I decided a short burst of it running would blow them out
It did!!!!!!! Also tested the oil supply Shot about 6ft across garage floor and covered everything in sight Your not having a picture of that Spent next 1/2 hour cleaning, safe in the knowledge the oil supply to the turbo is OK
Ordered new turbo today, wallet's a bit lighter here on Thursday
Tue Dec 04 2012 10:37pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4449
Boost wrote:
Is there a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo? There doesn't seem to be one - Face to face joint?
Nope, there is no gasket between the manifold and turbo. Great design
May be worth mentioning that there might be an Engine Management software update, which sweeps the actuator through its full length of movement every time you start the car, to help prevent any future seizures
Tue Dec 04 2012 11:15pm
Tim Hoang
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: London
Posts: 77
Boost wrote:
Thanks Mikey, I was planning on trying that tonight..........
Thought I'd remove the other stud that was left in, one tap with a punch and out , then clean up the exhaust manifold face - Is there a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo? There doesn't seem to be one - Face to face joint?
Anyway cleaned it up with some industrial type pads (apparently they are used for cleaning turbines in power stations ) Some fibres entered the manifold, not wanting them to enter new turbo when fitted decided not to use airline to blow them out, instead I came up with a cracking idea - I decided a short burst of it running would blow them out
It did!!!!!!! Also tested the oil supply Shot about 6ft across garage floor and covered everything in sight Your not having a picture of that Spent next 1/2 hour cleaning, safe in the knowledge the oil supply to the turbo is OK
Ordered new turbo today, wallet's a bit lighter here on Thursday
Hi Boost,
where did you get the turbo charge from and how much? I'm thinking of doing mine. Keep us up to date. Thanks2005 RRS TDV6 HSE Java Black
2005 997 C2
I googled for them and fired about 6 E-mails off to different companies. various responses from repairing mine (seals & bearings - �195), reconditioned one (�395) then various prices for a full new unit, up to �1400+vat!!!
Having gone this far I wanted a full new unit with the actuator, no good having mine repaired or a reconditioned one if its the actuator that is the fault.
After speaking to a couple of the 'new' unit suppliers, AET Turbo's were very open about the success of repaired ones for our our cars so now only supply brand new units, I double checked it was the right one by giving the part numbers from mine............�695+vat+�9 carriage = �843 with a 1yr warranty.
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Sat Dec 01 2012 12:07am
getting in
) Some fibres entered the manifold, not wanting them to enter new turbo when fitted decided not to use airline to blow them out, instead I came up with a cracking idea - I decided a short burst of it running would blow them out 
Shot about 6ft across garage floor and covered everything in sight 
Your not having a picture of that 
Spent next 1/2 hour cleaning, safe in the knowledge the oil supply to the turbo is OK 
with a 1yr warranty.
