Have owned the RRS for almost a month now. Although the service indicator is not lit up yet I'd like to change the engine oil as it looks pretty black and nasty. Checked in the owners manual and found the recommended specification for the oil is 5W-30 WSS-M2C913-B which I think is a Ford specification (?) and you need 9.5 litres for an change including the filter renewal. The only oil I could find which actually states on the label it meets this specification was Mobil Super 3000 X1 which handily comes in 5 litre containers so just had to buy two at a good price of 24.99 each from Eurocarparts. Experience with other cars has taught me it is usually a good idea to buy the filter and sump plug/washer from the manufacturer so I have ordered these from my local land rover dealer. At first I thought it would be just a sump plug washer needed but it transpires the sump plug should renewed at each change and there is another plug I need for the turbo which has its own drain plug. Trying to find the detailed instructions for doing the oil and filter change has proved tricky; found this on the FFRR site http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post20808.html . So my question is - can anyone confirm this is equally applicable to the RRS and there are no major differences to be aware of? Do you agree that the oil filter should be removed before draining the sump? On every other car one would normally drain the sump first so looks wrong to me. Believe I have all the tools needed including the 32mm socket and a really big container to catch the oil in.
To gain access I'm planning to raise car to offroad height but put axle stands under the chassis just in case it decides to have a "what are you doing Dave" moment and lower itself in a Hal-like move. Any tips welcome 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Better spec and now recomended is the 5W-30 WSS-M2C913-C (note the C).

C is a direct replament of B and exceeds B performance.

if you want to see a list of LR engine oil approved lubricants, visit this link at the Spanish web www.discotr.es and look at the last list message at the last page, it contains the most actual list of LR aproved oils abroad the european oil market (more focused on south europe easiest to find ones, but perfect to UK market too).

http://www.discotr.es/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4706

Our Spanish Forum members keeps it constantly updated making inputs as they find new oils.

Open the pdf at the start of the post to see your engine spec needed and scroll down to find your oil in the list.

If you want to add any other oil not listed, you are welcome. We are all here to collaborate and improve our knowledge.

Enjoy your car. They are great!

Last edited by CUCO on Tue Jul 24 2012 6:01pm. Edited 1 time in total

The reason it's a Ford spec oil is because it's a Ford engine under the LR badge.

It would be worth having a look through Bobby's gallery for RRS specific stuff - from memory there is some info relating to oil changes in there.
http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/index.php?cat=10024 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Here you go Paddi...

Click image to enlarge

Thanks for the replies everyone. Great information. I had the opportunity of speaking to a LR tech yesterday who confirmed removing the filter first. I'll probably use the oil I have but maybe change again after a couple of thousand miles and switch to the higher spec. Just one thing I'm curious about: Is there a special reason to disconnect the battery or is it just a generic workshop safety precaution to stop someone starting the car whilst the oil change is in process? Fingers crossed I'll have time to do the oil and filter change this weekend. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Had another look at the Mobil oil spec and found it also meets the higher 'c' spec so no problem there.
Did not bother to disconnect the battery and nothing untoward occurred. Warmed up to operating temp. Set the suspension at off-road height, chocked the wheels and positioned axle stands under the front jacking points just to be safe. Had a bit of a struggle with a couple of the bolts securing the undershield which had probably been over-torqued by the dealer at the recent visit to sort out the ARC bar. Otherwise turned out to be much simpler task than on my other cars which are somewhat lower. No really special tools needed but the 32 mm socket needed for the oil filter is larger than those found in an average socket set and a torque wrench is highly recommended. To catch oil I have always used a really big plastic storage box which minimises the chance of a spill. Since on the RRS one of the drain plugs is vertical the big box was particularly appropriate (only a few spots of oil fell on my block paving and easily cleaned up with squirt of degreaser). Took the opportunity to clean up the undershield and ran rethreading tools over the retaining nuts and bolts to clean the threads before smearing with copper grease and tightening to the correct torque. Good to know the engine is now running on clean quality oil and an OE filter. Total cost a tad over £60 but the real satisfaction comes from knowing the job is done properly. I have heard too many stories about dealerships and independents who don't warm up the engine, use cheapo pattern filters, wrong quality oil, suck the old oil up the dipstick access, or worst of all don't do anything apart from wipe the filter canister. Thanks again to forum members who offered advice and Bobby for the official LR service details. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE